Bottoming out with Koni Yellows and a Prokit

[Skunked tsi]

Just like the title says my stepdad has a 96 spyder we put some Koni yellows and a prokit on it with some 18inch SSrs. But when he goes over any sort of fluctuation in the road it rubs on the fenderwell the tires are bridgestone f1 pole position 235 40 18s.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. By the way he also has ingalls camber kit on all four corners.

Thanks Tyler

 

['96_Talon_TSi]

I'm no expert... but have you tried adjusting the damping at all? I'm not sure if it will help much, but its worth a try.

 

[GPTourer]

I've always been told that 235's would be too wide for a lot of dropped 2G's unless the fenders were rolled. I imagine the Spyder would sit lower then even the GS-T (which sits lower then a GSX) on a Pro-kit because of their extra weight. So the car isn't actually bottoming out, but the tires are rubbing the fender, right?

I use 225's on my Prokit/Yellow combo and I don't rub. My 18's have a +41 offset. What is your stepdad's offset?

 

[PaulPDX]

Originally posted by Skunked tsi
Just like the title says my stepdad has a 96 spyder we put some Koni yellows and a prokit on it with some 18inch SSrs. But when he goes over any sort of fluctuation in the road it rubs on the fenderwell the tires are bridgestone f1 pole position 235 40 18s.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. By the way he also has ingalls camber kit on all four corners.

Thanks Tyler

Err... rubbing on fender lips isn't bottoming out... bottoming out is when the shock bottoms out and can travel no further causing a loud "THUD!" or "THUNK!" If that was the case, were the bump stops make shorter during installation?

If it's rubbing on the fender lips, you most likley don't have the right offset or need to have the fender lips rolled. You can have it done professionally or you can youse a baseball bat... or a rubber mallet... either way, use a heat gun and heat up the paint first to make it pliable or else it could crack and flake off as you bend the lip.