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General Knock sensor question?

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Sbgriffin

Proven Member
185
16
Jun 14, 2017
Lewiston, Idaho
So I recently discovered that my knock sensor was puking oil out that back. Also have noticed my performance dwindling, just not as sharp as it was. Which after reading lots about how it works, I'm sure it's giving a false reading (phantom knock), and pulling some timing. Making my car kinda sluggish at times. So I ordered a new OEM sensor, and came today.
So I actually have 2 questions. First is, does it thread into a oil galley? Requiring some thread sealant? Or is the oil that commonly leaks out the back from the actual sensor it self?
Second thing, what is the best angle for removal and installation? I've read 2 solutions without removing the intake manifold. Either from underneath, with the car on stands. Which I don't see how without removing several things, mostly the intake brace. Or people say, remove the battery box, and bracket. And go in through that side? Which after looking, is probably my best bet, but not sure? Also I should state it's a 1g DSM FWD. Anybody have any ideas that might help? I know it's gonna be a PITA, but there has to be a solution without removing to much? Thanks in advance.
 
It should come out by hand as soon as you break it loose. The side method with the battery out is the way I am going to look at doing mine. Is yours registering more or no knock??
 
It should come out by hand as soon as you break it loose. The side method with the battery out is the way I am going to look at doing mine. Is yours registering more or no knock??
So Im not sure because I have no way to log or tune yet. But Im pretty sure the ECU is pulling some timing, my butt dyno can feel it. Plus it's puking oil from the back, so either way it needs replaced. So does the sensor thread into an oil galley? I was considering putting a little Teflon tape on the threads, it might make it less sensitive as well?
 
Alrighty, I'll be careful not to overtighten. I've read it requires only 7-10 ft/lb. I'm gonna be trying it with an open end wrench since I don't have the special socket. But I'll calibrated my arm 1st on another fastener. Thanks for the input!
 
What a b#tch of a job, not much fun. But I got it out. Just FYI, I had to take the starter, and heater hoses loose. There was just no room to turn a wrench without. I'm sure with the right tool it would be easier. Hopefully it makes a difference restoring some lost power.
 
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