Knock Sensor not hooked up...1g GSX

[mach4g63t]

Encountering a problem where the CEL is coming on. Ran the code and it's saying the Knock Sensor isn't hooked up. Where is this located, is it difficult to hook back up, and what's could possibly go wrong with this not being hooked up for a prolong period of time? I know the what the knock sensor does and how it works- I think. It retards timing of the engine when it detects too much knock? Would normal driving be bad if this isn't hooked up? Have a trip to Chicago planned that's about 350 miles. Should I not make the trip until this is corrected?

 

[19Eclipse90]

It's on the backside of the block, underneath the intake manifold. I don't think it would just get unplugged/unhooked though on it's own, you might look into a replacement. The sensor just threads into the block and the connector is along the back of the intake manifold. I wouldn't advise driving on it like that, especially if you have time to fix it. Consider it preventive repairs for your trip.

 

[JayRolla]

Encountering a problem where the CEL is coming on. Ran the code and it's saying the Knock Sensor isn't hooked up. Where is this located, is it difficult to hook back up, and what's could possibly go wrong with this not being hooked up for a prolong period of time? I know the what the knock sensor does and how it works- I think. It retards timing of the engine when it detects too much knock? Would normal driving be bad if this isn't hooked up? Have a trip to Chicago planned that's about 350 miles. Should I not make the trip until this is corrected?

I dont think its saying the knock sensor is unplugged, its saying its not working.

 

[mach4g63t]

Well, the motor just recently was rebuilt, so I'm guessing that maybe it wasn't plugged back in when everything was reassembled. Or does that even involve unhooking that? But, I'll look at it. From what you're saying, it's just as simple as plugging it back up?

 

[JayRolla]

Yea it may be unhooked. Its on the rear of the motor.

 

[DsM KiD4]

if you look past your heater core lines ( they run off the water pipe and thermostat housing i believe) youll see the connector from the wiring harness to the knock sensor harness. make sure its conncected and follow the harness with your hand to the knock sensor and make sure its on tight. you wont be able to see it because the intake manifold is in the way.

 

[DSMLoverFromUA]

I recomend to fix that little problem there because I have a friend who also had his not working right and he kept on beating on it and in like 3K miles of regular/racing and engine blow up. Parts of the pistons were broken and the piston was oval looking and tons of metal in the oil. We beliave the was the not working knock sensor that made his engien blow up, it leaned out and blow up. I strongly recomend and hook it back up and fix it if its broken. Good Luck.

 

[mach4g63t]

Hm. I have another question- Could the knock sensor give you any general indication of a motor that's about to crank walk? It's a 1g, but it still has the 7-bolt motor. I'm just curious, as I've been reading some stuff about the knock sensor and got kinda confused. Or does it just deal with pre-ignition and detonation?

 

[DSMLoverFromUA]

It wont tell you anything about crankwalk. Just make left turns very hard in the parking lot and feel how the pedal feels and then do the same when you turn right, it if feels like the pedal is sticking or feeling ligher on left turns then your walking, thats how i realized that she was walking I then droped the pan and moved the crank and she was walking. Dont worry 1g dont suffer that problem a lot.

Good Luck

 

[spyderturbo007]

Would normal driving be bad if this isn't hooked up? Have a trip to Chicago planned that's about 350 miles. Should I not make the trip until this is corrected?

Do not go on your trip until you get the problem fixed. You will be driving 350 miles in limp mode.

 

[91LaSerTurBo3]

I recomend to fix that little problem there because I have a friend who also had his not working right and he kept on beating on it and in like 3K miles of regular/racing and engine blow up. Parts of the pistons were broken and the piston was oval looking and tons of metal in the oil. We beliave the was the not working knock sensor that made his engien blow up, it leaned out and blow up. I strongly recomend and hook it back up and fix it if its broken. Good Luck.

do you mean 3,000 miles?how many kilometers is 3000 miles?
the knock sensor has nothing to do with the air/fuel ratio in the car, it detects "knock" under high boost pressure, if it detects knock, it retards timing to lessen the chances of Pre-Det, or Detonation. so therefore would not affect a lean AFR. also it sounds like your friends car had major issues if it was that messed up, i changed my oil recently, after having drivin my car for over 3000 km, and there was nothing in my oil.

also it should not affect driveability, mine is either disconnected or bad, and i need a new one and i have driven it, and it still runs fine,

 

[DSM1G90]

how many kilometers is 3000 miles

take miles times 1.625 to get Km. Take Km divided by 1.625 to get Miles. Thus with 3K miles would be 4875Km.

And I'm in the same trouble then: no sensor attached to the block, CEL light with code reading no sensor connected and no problem with motor noticed during operation.

 

[91LaSerTurBo3]

yea i get the CEL too, but like i said i have noticed nothing, also i dont have my timing advanced at all so maybe thats why, theres no timing to retard, so im not loosing any timing, even when i had at 5 it didnt seem to retard, its weird

 

[DSM1G90]

K, my sensor is still there, but the lead wires were cut off. Opposite connector still intact (has two wires-white and black). Went to junkyard and yanked a sensor off of a DSM out there..got my ride back to normal now - no CEL and still runs great.

 

[Stainbox12]

I recomend to fix that little problem there because I have a friend who also had his not working right and he kept on beating on it and in like 3K miles of regular/racing and engine blow up. Parts of the pistons were broken and the piston was oval looking and tons of metal in the oil. We beliave the was the not working knock sensor that made his engien blow up, it leaned out and blow up. I strongly recomend and hook it back up and fix it if its broken. Good Luck.

That doesn´t make any sense at all. The knock sensor just picks up sounds from the engine and interprets it as knock, what it does is that it retards regular timing advance. The car would feel slow and held back if its knocking bad, and in some remote circumstances destroy an engine. But i certainly doesn´t make sense to say that it leaned because of the knock sensor. the 02 sensor is the one that reads A/F ratio. I´ve been driving with a ground knock sensor, and i don´t pick any noise from the engine. It´s a good mod? not really. It works if you know what you doing? it does. Connecting the knock sensor would give you some control of the engine if tuning and some safe measures to prevent detonation, thats it.

 

[91LaSerTurBo3]

how can you check to see if the sensor is working? cause i wanna pick one up from the wreckers, but i dont want to get one thats of no use to me, thanks

 

[bluegs03]

this is not a "for sure" way of telling if its good but the sensor is faulty or broken if the black goo has melted out of the back of the sensor or is deformed in some way on the back of the sensor. As i said before a sensor could look fine on the outside and still be faulty, but this is a way to tell

 

[sniver]

old post, I know ... as per tech information manual, when code 31 is thrown (open circuit detonation sensor) the only affect is 3 degrees timing retard.

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[DSM1G90]

I only paid a couple of bucks for my sensor that I yanked off of a GSX that had 178k on the clock (sad, this car was totally straight-looks like it was abandoned, thus towed off by the law to this yard and it didn't take long for this car to be cannibalized) which was still hooked up to the harness.

Some of the black goo was gone, yet the ECU loved it by getting all of the operations back in a closed loop formation and got me back to normal.

True, you do take a risk getting electronics out at a yard since there is no way of testing - you might say, I love to "fly at the edge of the seat", but I save 80 bucks in doing so from getting a new one from the Mitsu dealership.

 

[MattratfTSI]

alright my car feels slow and held back from what it used to be just like you describe. It takes forever to build boost but it does build full boost eventually. one of my dsm buddys says hes sure my ecu is telling the knock sensor to retard timing when there is nothing wrong and that I should get a new ecu. does this even happen? He also described grounding to the firewall like you said.

That doesn´t make any sense at all. The knock sensor just picks up sounds from the engine and interprets it as knock, what it does is that it retards regular timing advance. The car would feel slow and held back if its knocking bad, and in some remote circumstances destroy an engine. But i certainly doesn´t make sense to say that it leaned because of the knock sensor. the 02 sensor is the one that reads A/F ratio. I´ve been driving with a ground knock sensor, and i don´t pick any noise from the engine. It´s a good mod? not really. It works if you know what you doing? it does. Connecting the knock sensor would give you some control of the engine if tuning and some safe measures to prevent detonation, thats it.

 

[habitatguy187]

alright my car feels slow and held back from what it used to be just like you describe. It takes forever to build boost but it does build full boost eventually. one of my dsm buddys says hes sure my ecu is telling the knock sensor to retard timing when there is nothing wrong and that I should get a new ecu. does this even happen? He also described grounding to the firewall like you said.

It just may be that your catalytic converter is clogged up and that's why it's taking forever to reach full boost, because right now my knock sensor is bad (code 31) and it holds my boost back to 7-8 psi. So I would look at another solution than changing your knock sensor.

 

[Brentenorris]

thanx guys. i need a knock sensor. mine is giving a 31 and when i drove it down the road it just fell on its face like a bad boost leak made sure nothing was leaking still did the same thing once again so i hope this works for me

 

[Ravewolf]

Ok, hate to bump this and , but my Talon's knock sensor is destroyed (wire ripped out on the sensor). So how do I do the grounding trick? WHat color are the wires for it? Not sure if someone else did it before me (my God they butchered this poor car....the horror it make me), so if somoene could kinda maybe tell me what the wires are...appreciate it....

 

[PIMking]

Ok, hate to bump this and , but my Talon's knock sensor is destroyed (wire ripped out on the sensor). So how do I do the grounding trick? WHat color are the wires for it? Not sure if someone else did it before me (my God they butchered this poor car....the horror it make me), so if somoene could kinda maybe tell me what the wires are...appreciate it....

1. go to local part store
2. have them look up knock sensor
3. tell them you want it
4. pay them 80 bucks
5. go home
6. pop hood on car
7 take off old one
8 install new one
9. close hood
10. have fun that you didn't ghetto rig a vital part of your car.

 

[94awdcoupe]

Timing gets locked at 9 degrees when sensor is unplugged. Since normal cruise needs 35 degress you timing will be way off for just driving around. exhaust manifold will glow cherry red and your a/f will be affected. car will feel very lazy if not downright slow.