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2G Key reminder not working

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Not sure why your key reminder buzzer doesn't work unless when they added this suspect wire, they removed the key reminder switch or cut its green-yellow or black wires. The car didn't come with an immobilizer (which I assume was added) so how does that work?

By the way, I only have the USA DSM wiring diagrams, not any Euro ones. So I'm making the assumption they are the same in this area. Keep that in mind.
 
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You can see the red yellow wire that was cutted and the a red white wire was added and then goes to a red wire with a fuse. This red wire goes on a big white cable that could be the ground.

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Not sure why your key reminder buzzer doesn't work unless when they added this suspect wire, they removed the key reminder switch or cut its green-yellow or black wires. The car didn't come with an immobilizer (which I assume was added) so how does that work?

By the way, I only have the USA DSM wiring diagrams, not any Euro ones. So I'm making the assumption they are the same in this area. Keep that in mind.
Yeah I also think it’s the same
 

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Look on the key reminder switch and connector itself. What wires are still on there?
Is the red-yellow the one that's cut (to connect the other half to your suspect wire) and so the one on the switch is now connected to nothing? What about the other wires?

Better yet can you make me a drawing of where all the wires go to (and which were cut where)? Otherwise this is going to take forever.
 
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Yeah I’m gonna make that now but there is just 1 wire that is cutted the red yellow and the everything else is connected.

Look on the key reminder switch and connector itself. What wires are still on there?
Is the red-yellow the one that's cut (to connect the other half to your suspect wire) and so the one on the switch is now connected to nothing? What about the other wires?

Better yet can you make me a drawing of where all the wires go to (and which were cut where)? Otherwise this is going to take forever.
Is it possible to test the key reminder?

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I just tested and checked the key reminder switch and it looks perfect. I done a continuity test and everythings good.
Did you check continuity with key removed on BOTH the red-yellow (pin 7) to the black-blue (pin 3) AND then from the green-yellow (pin 6) to the black (pin 4)?

By the way: In your picture is the connector with the brown fuzzy stuff around it the key reminder switch connector?

Is it possible to test the key reminder?

Yes. According to my diagrams if you:
1) Ground the key reminder switch green-yellow (pin 6), and ground the left door switch red-green, and ground the left door switch orange, the key reminder warning buzzer should sound. [Note: grounding the left door switch wires is what the left door open is supposed to do, but just in case the switch is not working, you should ground them.]

2) Another thing you might test is to make sure the key reminder switch's black (pin 4) has continuity to ground. If it doesn't, it won't work.
 
Did you check continuity with key removed on BOTH the red-yellow (pin 7) to the black-blue (pin 3) AND then from the green-yellow (pin 6) to the black (pin 4)?

By the way: In your picture is the connector with the brown fuzzy stuff around it the key reminder switch connector?
I tested pin 4 and 6 for continuity with key in and out, but I don’t find the black blue and green yellow. And yeah it’s the connector from key reminder switch and key hole light.

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Yes. According to my diagrams if you:
1) Ground the key reminder switch green-yellow, and ground the left door switch red-green, and ground the left door switch orange, the key reminder warning buzzer should sound. [Note: grounding the left door switch wires is what the left door open is supposed to do, but just in case the switch is not working, you should ground them.]

2) Another thing you might test is to make sure the key reminder switch's black (pin 4) has continuity to ground. If it doesn't, it won't work.
Okay thank you I’m gonna test this tomorrow.
 

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I tested pin 4 and 6 for continuity with key in and out, but I don’t find the black blue and green yellow. And yeah it’s the connector from key reminder switch and key hole light.

I think you meant black-blue (pin 3) and red-yellow (pin 7). They are shown on the Theft-Alarm wiring page. The black-blue (pin 3) is right under the red-green (pin 1) [red-green shown on Ignition key hole illumination light timer wiring page]. The green-yellow (pin 6) is next to (just inside on same row) the red-yellow (pin 7).

However someone replaced a couple wires on the key reminder switch connector with 2 black wires going to a push button you are holding. Is this the immobilizer or part of it? Which pins do these black wires connect to - I can't tell? They look like they're going to the key reminder switch pins which would explain why your key reminder isn't working. And how does the immobilizer work?
 
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I think you meant black-blue (pin 3) and red-yellow (pin 7). They are shown on the Theft-Alarm wiring page. The black-blue (pin 3) is right under the red-green (pin 1) [red-green shown on Ignition key hole illumination light timer wiring page]. The green-yellow (pin 6) is next to (just inside on same row) the red-yellow (pin 7).

However someone replaced a couple wires on the key reminder switch connector with 2 black wires going to a push button you are holding. Is this the immobilizer or part of it? Which pins do these black wires connect to - I can't tell? They look like they're going to the key reminder switch pins which would explain why your key reminder isn't working. And how does the immobilizer work?
The key reminder is this push button I just took it out to see if it’s in good condition. The immobilizer works because when I try using an other key who hasn’t the chip in the key the engine don’t start.
 
The key reminder is this push button I just took it out to see if it’s in good condition. The immobilizer works because when I try using an other key who hasn’t the chip in the key the engine don’t start.
Look on your Theft Alarm System wiring page. Mine shows connector B-39 going to the key reminder switch. However it shows 2 switches that activate when the key is removed - pins 4 to 6 on one and pins 3 to 7 on the other. Is there another switch there on pins 3 and 7?

And do the wires on the switch you are holding go to pins 4 and 6?
 
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Look on your Theft Alarm System wiring page. Mine shows connector B-39 going to the key reminder switch. However it shows 2 switches that activate when the key is removed - pins 4 to 6 on one and pins 3 to 7 on the other. Is there another switch there on pins 3 and 7?

And do the wires on the switch you are holding go to pins 4 and 6?
Yeah mine shows connector B-39 going to key reminder and there I checked continuity with pin 4 and 6. On the the connector there are just 4 pins (pin 4 and 6 for key reminder and pin 1 and 2 for key hole illumination There is another connector but I don’t know for what it is.

I think it’s that.
 
Does your buzzer sound when you leave your lights on, key in ignition, and left door opened? It uses the same key reminder switch pins 4 and 6.

Also what happened when you did the tests of post #34?
 
Does your buzzer sound when you leave your lights on, key in ignition, and left door opened? It uses the same key reminder switch pins 4 and 6.
The buzzer sounds when the left door is open with lights on but don’t sound with the key in

Also what happened when you did the tests of post #34?
Nothing happened except if I did it wrong.

Also what happened when you did the tests of post #34?
Tested it right now again and nothing to do it’s not working. Continuity was tested and also good.
 
The buzzer sounds when the left door is open with lights on but don’t sound with the key in
Ya sorry, I meant to say it sounds when the key is out. Well anyway, that proves the buzzer works along with that function of the ETACS-ECU board (and then a better chance the entire board is working). This is getting to be a hard one, I'm running out of ideas. I'll have to think on it more. However I'm a retired electronic engineer and so enjoy a good electrical mystery if the other person is willing to work with me. Can you follow both ends of the wire that added 20A fuse is in (in the hanging wire) to see where they go?
 
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The side of the 20A fuse that has the orange going into the red I'm suspecting is a +12V power (to supply power to something on the other side of the fuse). I say this because your post #21 2nd picture shows that red connected to a large white which usually is the fusebox power. To verify this please temporarily remove the fuse and measure the voltage on that side of the fuse holder. If I'm right you'll see +12V all the time.

But I also need to know EXACTLY where the other side of the fuse goes. Please follow those wires.
 
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Yeah mine shows connector B-39 going to key reminder and there I checked continuity with pin 4 and 6. On the the connector there are just 4 pins (pin 4 and 6 for key reminder and pin 1 and 2 for key hole illumination There is another connector but I don’t know for what it is.

I think it’s that.
Are you sure there haven't also been wires on B-39 pins 3 (black-blue) and 7 (red-yellow) that are just cut off so short you don't notice? Because my wiring diagram on the Theft-Alarm System shows them. Look at the drawing of the B-39 connector to see where the pins are.

Also what is this "another" connector? How many pin connector, how many wires and colors, where does it go, etc?
 
Ya sorry, I meant to say it sounds when the key is out. Well anyway, that proves the buzzer works along with that function of the ETACS-ECU board (and then a better chance the entire board is working). This is getting to be a hard one, I'm running out of ideas. I'll have to think on it more. However I'm a retired electronic engineer and so enjoy a good electrical mystery if the other person is willing to work with me. Can you follow both ends of the wire that added 20A fuse is in (in the hanging wire) to see where they go?
That’s nice to have such a help to solve my problem. Following this wire it goes from the B-39 connector to a white wire who is on the back of the ignition.
 
Are you sure there haven't also been wires on B-39 pins 3 (black-blue) and 7 (red-yellow) that are just cut off so short you don't notice? Because my wiring diagram on the Theft-Alarm System shows them. Look at the drawing of the B-39 connector to see where the pins are.

Also what is this "another" connector? How many pin connector, how many wires and colors, where does it go, etc?
I only have pins 1,2,4,6.

The other connector is for the airbag system.

Took out this fuse and nothing happens.

There are blue black who comes from the ignition but don’t go on a switch.
 
How does the immobilizer work? Is it just a key with a special card in it that only it will work in the ignition key slot? Is it really just the presence of that immobilizer key in the car that allows starting with any key in ignition?
 
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With only 4 pins (wires) on B-39, then perhaps your car never came with the factory theft alarm.
Can you measure the voltage on both sides of the fuse with the fuse removed?
And with the fuse removed does the immobilizer no longer work?
The voltage is 12V constantly. The immobilizer works all the time it’s oem because I have the original key and in this key there is a chip without this chip the car cannot start.
 
The 1g/2g DSM's in the USA did not come with any immobilizer so I don't know what it is. So you're saying the immobilizer came from the factory in your car?

I'm just trying to understand how it works. In post 34 you mention another key without the chip. So will that key work in the ignition if the immobilizer chip key is present somewhere in the car? Or do you have to always have the immobilizer chip key in the ignition to start the car?
 
The 1g/2g DSM's in the USA did not come with any immobilizer so I don't know what it is. So you're saying the immobilizer came from the factory in your car?

I'm just trying to understand how it works. In post 34 you mention another key without the chip. So will that key work in the ignition if the immobilizer chip key is present somewhere in the car? Or do you have to always have the immobilizer chip key in the ignition to start the car?
If you cut another key but you don’t program the chip who is in the key the engine won’t go on it would just turn but not go on.
 
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