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jumped timing again

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fubar_mdw

15+ Year Contributor
100
0
Dec 6, 2007
hampton, Virginia
well i got my car all put back together brand new head and cometic head gasket/
drove it for awhile and then parked for about a week, ordered a pocket logger
went to start the car after i got it and i kept hearing a metal on metal sound from the valves smacking the pistons, checked timing and sure enough it was way way off,
so i scrapped the project for awhile,
i went out today to work on my other dsm and lifted the hood up
on my eclipse just to look at it and noticed the timing belt was just sitting on
the cams not even touching the notches, (i had reset the timing before i scrapped it)
what would cause the timing belt to be so loose on the cams,
i checked the timing tensioner but thats the only thing i can think of being messed up.
any other ideas
 
2 cars? both with incorrect timing, im assuming you did both? You need to recheck things, you are obviously making a common mistake somewhere.

scrap the cometic HG in your builds dude, there garbage.
 
2 cars? both with incorrect timing, im assuming you did both? You need to recheck things, you are obviously making a common mistake somewhere.

scrap the cometic HG in your builds dude, there garbage.

+1 for the hg and what tesioner are you lookin at??? the hydralic one is very common to fail also there are the roller ones that could be bad!!! check those!!!
 
what head gasket should i get?
not sure if its the tensioner or the idler pulley right now,
but the tensior look brand new (im sure it only has like 5k miles on it)
but the timing belt was sticking almost off of the cams and everything was bolted down and tightend

well far as i can tell the problem lies somewhere with the timing area of the motor, the lifters are all
new revised 3rd gen's, the head and valves train where all brand new,
so im going to replace the timing belt (balance shaft eliminated btw)
idler pulley tension pulley, tensioiner, head gasket, all the valves, resurface the head,
and maybe get some ajustable cam gears,
the thing is what kind of tensioner should i get?
what kind of head gasket should i get?
and is a oem type timing belt from the parts store good or should i order one from a repputable place?
links would be nice, thanks in advance
 
I would stay away from "OEM type" parts when dealing with anything critical to your car. I would look at the dealership ($60 at my local dealership), Road Race Engineering, JNZ Tuning (never shopped there, but I hear they're good), Mach V, I think some people go to DSMparts.com

If you can find a good Mitsu dealership near by that stocks a lot of parts, you'll probably find the best deal there.
 
Thats the kit on my Talon. 10,000 miles on parts, and still golng. All Mitsubishi OEM factory parts. This is second set from Slowboy, I change belt kits every 50,000 miles. I use a 60 inch pound beam type torque wrench to set belt tension. Set gap at .156 with drill bit. Great timing belt replacement articles in search section.
 
Thats the kit on my Talon. 10,000 miles on parts, and still golng. All Mitsubishi OEM factory parts. This is second set from Slowboy, I change belt kits every 50,000 miles. I use a 60 inch pound beam type torque wrench to set belt tension. Set gap at .156 with drill bit. Great timing belt replacement articles in search section.

thanks for the info, glad to here this kit working well for you,
im going to go ahead and order it then thanks
 
hows this headgasket
Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: Engine :: Gaskets :: Head Gaskets :: SCE Gaskets :: SCE 4G63 Copper Head Gasket
let me know if anyone has used this and/or send me a link to a better one.
im not looking to spend 200 bucks on a headgasket though

that headgasket, as it says, will require your head and block mating surfaces to be a mirror like finish or coolant will leak past the gasket. The OEM mitsu head gasket should be fine for your set up and will not require a perfect mating surface. When i did my T-belt, i replaced t-belt, balance belt, waterpump, drive belts and the timing belt tensioner, pulleys were ok and seals were good, but i just followed the Haynes repair manual step by step and got it done.
 
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