J-pipe Question

[subie22]

I was wondering, i just purchased a new jpipe from extreme psi, great company, fast shipping. Anyway i was wondering where i can get new piping from, i was told i can get it at homedepo and was wondering if thats true. I'm not to sure if i will be able to use the piping i have now. It doesnt look it. So i am trying to get my car back on the road by this weekend. The reason i bought a new jpipe, the shop i had my intercooler fixed at routed my jpipe so my intercooler piping would go over the exhaust manifold. So i was melting couplers. So now i am just trying to figure this out.. Also just to double check, is it sensible to run my boost controller off the vac line on my bov. If so which i think you can, if i ever replace the bov would i be able to do it with a new one. Like maybe a ssq hks or something.

 

[turbosax2]

What kind of fmic are you running? Are you just looking for any kind of piping?

Do not run your mbc off your bov line. This has been covered many times before and hopefully this thread doesn't turn into another argument over it. You either need to put a fitting on your compressor housing or on your j-pipe to attach the mbc line to.

 

[subie22]

I am running a ssautochrome ebay front mount. I dont rele care what kinda pipes, just as long as they work right now. Also did some searching, and i dont want to start any trouble, but why cant you tap in the bov to install a boost controller what are the negative effects thanks.

 

[synthetek]

A negative effect would be your BOV not opperating properly and getting compressor surge and breaking your turbo or causing engine damage. Run it off the J pipe, compressor housing or lower IC pipe.

 

[turbosax2]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/237982-best-way-install-mbc.html

Taking the pressure source from the j-pipe fitting has many benefits.

1. The main reason why alot of mbc instructions and some tech articles suggests to tap from the BOV line is because it's connected to the intake manifold, the argument is that this is more accurate because it's the same pressure the engine sees. In reality this is a non issue because the boost gauge is tap to the intake manifold no matter where you tap your mbc so there is no advantage in tapping the bov/manifold pressure as previously thought.

2. The proper functioning (opening and closing) of the bov depends greatly on the accuracy of the pressure in the vacuum hose you're thinking of tapping on or off boost so it's best to leave it connected directly to the manifold without any interference.

3. Tapping off the compressor/j-pipe offers the shortest vacuum hose route which greatly reduces the chance of boost spike.

4. In the case of boost leaks, tapping off the compressor/j-pipe will help prevent over boosting the turbo.

5. Hooking up a bleeder type mbc like the TurboXS standard mbc to the bov line will result in a vacuum leak as well as affect the working of the BOV.

 

[subie22]

so i have to get a nipple welded in its place on the new jpipe then. Since it doenst have one.

 

[turbosax2]

so i have to get a nipple welded in its place on the new jpipe then. Since it doenst have one.

Yup, or you can drill and tap and put the fitting in that way. I prefer welding.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/269122-need-j-pipe-nipple.html#post151265707

 

[subie22]

is there any hows to's since i am not rele to sure where i should tap it, and i am lil nervous on taping my 80$ j-pipe since i dont have another 80$ to purchase one again, i guess i just use a drill which i am not sure on the size, and buy myself a nipple not to sure where i can get them prob homedepoe and what size one of those i should get and what size tap i should get. I am guessing 1/8 for the bit and 1/8 for the tap and die. Let me know i plan on doing this myself. Also this is a pretty j-pipe and i would like to keep it that way. From the thread turbosax gave me, just looks like someone bought one of those fittings that belong at the end of a air gun, which is kinda ugly but it looks like i may have no choice.

 

[subie22]

hey turbosax2 where are u located, i need my wideband bung welded so i was wondering if you'd be able to do it, I live in the loverly poconos, and theres not many people who are around that i know of that can weld. I guess if i have to i can take of the dp and just have someone weld it if i have to. I would prefer to have someone do it with it on the car.

 

[turbosax2]

is there any hows to's since i am not rele to sure where i should tap it, and i am lil nervous on taping my 80$ j-pipe since i dont have another 80$ to purchase one again, i guess i just use a drill which i am not sure on the size, and buy myself a nipple not to sure where i can get them prob homedepoe and what size one of those i should get and what size tap i should get. I am guessing 1/8 for the bit and 1/8 for the tap and die. Let me know i plan on doing this myself. Also this is a pretty j-pipe and i would like to keep it that way. From the thread turbosax gave me, just looks like someone bought one of those fittings that belong at the end of a air gun, which is kinda ugly but it looks like i may have no choice.

My brother (snowborder714) bought a carbon steel 1/4" hose barb, which is an appropriate fitting for this job (actually 1/8" is ideal but they didn't have that size). Then we just cut off almost all the threads and brought it to a welder and had him drill the hole and weld it in - cost about $25 for everything I think. Just hold the j-pipe up to the turbo and find the best spot where you want the fitting to be. Make sure you don't place it way towards the bottom because the coupler will be going there. Besides that it doesn't really matter where on the j-pipe you put it.

The size of the drill bit and tap you need would depend on the size of the fitting you are using.

 

[turbosax2]

hey turbosax2 where are u located, i need my wideband bung welded so i was wondering if you'd be able to do it, I live in the loverly poconos, and theres not many people who are around that i know of that can weld. I guess if i have to i can take of the dp and just have someone weld it if i have to. I would prefer to have someone do it with it on the car.

Sorry, I don't weld (wish I could!!). I bring all of my jobs to a local welder.

I'm located in Mechanicsburg, but I go to school in Annville (near Hershey).

Just mark on the dp where you want the bung welded and bring it to an exhaust shop to get it welded. I can't imagine it would be too easy for someone to weld the bung on with the dp still on the car.

 

[subie22]

well i am confused it says it needs to be 36" away from the turbo which i understand, but how would i tell the welder i need it at a 10* angle. I guess weld the bung in there at a 10* angle. I guess that maybe a next weekend project i need to get this car up and running. I should be able i hope find that nipple at homedepot and a tap and bit there. I am goona go either 1/4 or 1/8 for both i am guessing. I feel pretty comfy with tapping it considering i;ve read people boosting pretty high with it. But i am hoping i can get all my piping at a homedepot.

 

[turbosax2]

Take a sharpie and make a dot on the dp right where you want the bung. The welder can drill the hole right at your dot and weld in the bung. Piece o' cake!

 

[subie22]

ok but with a marker you can determine a 10* angle on it tho. Or does it matter. Thats what AEM says to do.

 

[turbosax2]

Which wideband do you have that specifies a 10* angle? My brothers Innovate said to put the sensor anywhere above the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.

 

[subie22]

I have the AEM UEGO Wideband. Says it in the instruction manual.

 

[turbosax2]

Hm...I would assume you would be fine with anything above 3 and 9 but don't quote me on that. I would just try to guess a 10* angle as best you can and mark the point with the marker. That way when the hole is drilled and the bung is welded in per your mark, it will be at a 10* angle.

 

[subie22]

Just relized, eitherway it will be on an angle. Since your not going to be able to install it on the very top of the pipe.

 

[turbosax2]

Just relized, eitherway it will be on an angle. Since your not going to be able to install it on the very top of the pipe.

Right. Just don't go below the horizontal position.

 

[subie22]

One more stupid question, never taped anything before, so i will need say for EX: 1/4" steel hose barb and the drill the same size and then get the tap that is also the same size correct me if i am wrong.

 

[turbosax2]

The hose barb will have 2 numbers associated with it: the size of the barb and the size of the threads. You will need to pick up a tap according to the size of the threads. On the tap's package, it will tell you what size drill bit to use for it. Try to get a barb with 1/8" NPT threads. Oh, and you will be hard pressed to find a steel hose barb. We had to find one so we could have it welded to the ss j-pipe, but since you're not welding just get a normal brass hose barb.

 

[subie22]

well what size barb do i need i dont want something huge...

 

[turbosax2]

A barb with 1/8" NPT threads and 1/8" barb should work just fine.

 

[subie22]

A barb with 1/8" NPT threads and 1/8" barb should work just fine.

Thank you for your help.

 

[turbosax2]

No problem

Good luck with everything!