issue after replacing timing belt??

[natural laser]

So i didn't actually snap my timing belt but stripped the teeth off it so none the less needed to replace it. All said and done i replaced it and all the timing marks were dead on, compression tested it and ran 170 across the board. Now im stuck It's running like a fat boy choking for air. It literally has no power and it sounds like it wants to end its own life. Going to get a timing light and see if checking the CAS timing is good. Wondering if anyone has any experience with this issue, its an N/A 2.0, anything at all helps, thanks.

 

[shanobie]

tried the timing light but also is it throwing any codes ?

O sorry try not tried sorry

 

[natural laser]

Nope so far i havent seen a single CEL which is also making me wonder if mine even works haha, but I will be trying the timing light in the next few hours

 

[95TalonOwner]

Recheck your timing. It's probably a tooth off.

 

[natural laser]

So i ran the timing light and its 60 degrees BTDC and when i first did the timing belt i was pretty damn positive it was all dead on, could it being one tooth off really create this whole issue?

 

[bryanwheat]

If the intake cam is off than yes it will throw the ignition timing off.

 

[natural laser]

Well i dismantled the entire thing, redid the timing belt and took it for a test drive. It's now running a million times better but yet still doesn't feel just quite what it use to. So i broke out the timing light again but how the hell are you supposed to see the marks on the crank pully, i even dabbed some green paint on it to make it more visible and cant see shit. so i guess my question now is how should i go about timing it, with the CAS and timing light and all.

 

[bryanwheat]

Are you grounding the timing terminal on the firewall? IF so than you should have no problem seeing the mark. Try doing it in a dark garage or at night time.

 

[4g63t]

Use white out on the mark, not a dark color.

 

[natural laser]

yea i had it grounded right, but i was doing it outside in the middle of the day so tonight ill try in the dark and ill try using some white out to see if that helps more instead

 

[natural laser]

alright the problem is back, its running like shit again. And for the second time now the timing belt feels loose in a section, ive taken it off twice now and everytime i have the marks lined up perfect and everything is tight, then i run it and a section gets loose and i think it jumps a tooth or so on the belt. Am i doing something run or is there something special to installing these timing belts. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Dhan]

Do you have a brand new Mitsubishi auto tensioner? It looks like this.

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When you rip it all down then put it all back together this time, rotate the crank a dozen times with a breaker bar or similar. Then make sure everything is still aligned.

You're doing somethig wrong or a specific part has failed.

 

[natural laser]

Alright so just checked it and it didnt jump timing, everything is still lined up just right, thank the lord. Now about the automatic tensioner, I didnt have a vice to push the little rod down because i needed something strong enough to push it down like a vice which i sold mine (bad choice). So i had to put it on with the rod already out. Atleast the timing belt is staying in position but the issue is its getting lose on the right side by the oil pump pully i believe it is. So do you think this means the auto tensioner and is it bad that i need something as strong as i vice to push the rod on it down? sorry about all the questions but im trying to get this fixed before i leave for basic, all your help is much appreciated.

 

[97SPYDER210]

Yeah you will need to compress the rod back in and put a pin in the little hole. Also you will need a tensioning tool to rotate the tensioning pulley to the correct spec. The reason the belt is loose is
Bc the tensioning pulley is not rotated there for is not
Putting pressure on the rod the rod controls the tension on the belt.

 

[natural laser]

Alright, also i have a chiltons manual and its saying to use that tensioning tool your talking about i have to pull the motor out because it wont fit in there with the motor still in the car. Is there anyway to do a damn timing belt without having to pull the motor all the way out??? Again thanks for all the help

 

[toppertopper]

Have you adjusted the tensioner pulley?

 

[Gearhead4G63]

When it comes to timing, 4g63s are like wemon if you do it wrong even by a little, there not happy, check the timing again, and double check the tensioner pully, make sure your firing pin is functioning right or even working at all you may need a new one.

 

[Dhan]

Alright, also i have a chiltons manual

This may be part of the problem. A true blue Chrysler/Mitsu shop manual is what you need. It looks like this. It takes you through the process step by step.

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and its saying to use that tensioning tool

I think by "tensioning tool", it's referring to the thin rod that you slip in behind where the a/c compressor is located. I got mine from Miller Tools. JayRacing sells them too.

Give this thread a quick read to get some info on where to get one or how to make one. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/362672-timing-belt-tensioner-tool.html

your talking about i have to pull the motor out because it wont fit in there with the motor still in the car. Is there anyway to do a damn timing belt without having to pull the motor all the way out??? Again thanks for all the help

No, you don't have to pull the motor out (unless you have really stubby arms or woodchips for fingers). It's a tight squeeze in some spots, but it's definitely doable. Course you already knew that

That auto tensioner I mentioned above comes preloaded when new, but if you don't get a new one, you have to "reload" it yourself. I used a tabletop vice my first time (now I just fork over the cash and buy new for peace of mind). You have to go VERY slowly when compressing it- like a slow quarter turn, wait a couple seconds, another slow quarter turn.
Then when you've got it compressed, slip a tiny drill bit or strong pin into the holes to keep it in place. Finally, mount it up and don't remove the pin until the auto tensioner arm is in place and you're ready to use the tensioner tool from Miller Tools or JayRacing.

Hope all this helps a little. Keep asking questions until you get it right

 

[natural laser]

what exactly is the purpose of the tensioner tool though, is it just to release the auto tensioner rod slowly or what? thats the only thing ive left to understand

 

[bryanwheat]

You don't need the threaded rod at all. The tool that turns the tensioner pulley 100 percent needed. It is to adjust the tensioner pulley so that the tension is properly set on the belt. You don't just put the tensioner on and pull the pin. The pulley has an elliptical center and needs to be adjusted.

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[Dhan]

You don't need the threaded rod at all.

I thought you do need it, so you can recompress the auto tensioner plunger assembly?

 

[ramsack]

You need the threaded rod if you don't have a vise or c-clamp to collapse the tensioner.

 

[Dhan]

Oh, I see what you guys are saying now. I was confused with the terminology. There's two "tensioner tools", the little socket you put 2 ft lbs. on and the threaded rod.

Sorry, my above post had some incomplete information. My apologies.

 

[natural laser]

Alright so now I'm better understanding everything and I realized before when I was doing this I was leaving the tensioner pulley on the side giving it the most slack and that was my issue, I've got it now how it should be and have a buddy letting me use his vice this afternoon and I'll put the auto tensioner on then turn the crank 10-12 times to make sure everything should be correct this time. Then I'll start and let you all know how it ends tonight, thanks for all the help up to this point I'm definitely learning a lot haha.

Alright all said and done I'm finished, thanks everyone for the help it was much appreciated