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Is this ok for the PCV system?

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mizak82

10+ Year Contributor
172
1
Jul 24, 2010
palm beach, Florida
Hi guys,

I bought this car about 6 months ago. I was doing some research after my dipstick kept popping out the other day, and came across a lot of info on PCV systems for these cars and their functionality.

I attached 2 pictures, one is of the tiny air filter on my valve cover that according to my reading is suppose to be recirculated to the the Air intake.. Is this bad?

and the second one is a picture of I dont know what.. I removed my coolant overflow reservoir to take the picture, its located under my air intake.. That is where the hose is running from my intake to, but one hose is cut going to nothing.. Is it a mini catch can or something?

How bad is this set up? any advice would be appreciated..
 
First things first. Replace your PVC valve with a brand new, OEM one. Mitsu part number MD024719. Don't even bother with the ones that the other parts stores sell.

The filter on the side isn't really helping or hurting the issue with blowing the dipstick out. Chances are, your current PCV valve is allowing manifold pressure (boost) to leak into the crankcase.

The second pic is of your BCS. It's unrelated.


PS - Is the timing belt damaged?
 
I just ordered a pcv valve and a new dipstick from JNZTUNING. The timing belt does have a slight groove in it, I was told when it was put on they had the 2 bolts backwards, started it up and noticed it rubbing, then switched the screws and it stopped.. Ive been keeping an eye on it though.
 
I just ordered a pcv valve and a new dipstick from JNZTUNING. The timing belt does have a slight groove in it, I was told when it was put on they had the 2 bolts backwards, started it up and noticed it rubbing, then switched the screws and it stopped.. Ive been keeping an eye on it though.

You should just replace it, because if it breaks, chances are it won't happen gradually. And in the event of it breaking you'll have some really serious problems.
 
How major of a deal is it to replace the timing belt on these things? or approximately how much would someone charge to do so?

obviously if it breaks Im screwed..
 
It's not something I would recommend doing yourself if you are just getting started. As far as having it done, it really depends on how much the shop charges for labor. I've seen places that will only charge around $175-$200 to just replace a timing belt, but then I've seen others that charge upwards to $350-$400 for a full timing belt job.
 
That groove on the t belt is from an oil pan bolt that is slightly too long and protrudes through by the oil pump gear. It just touch's the t belt or is very close to touching, as the t belt is moving it vibrates slightly making contact with the end of the bolt. It should be replaced with a shorter one, I have personally had this issue on 2 separate cars.
I didn't know that the pcv could leak boost causing the stick to pop out, I always thought it was from natural blow by and the fact that the stick is not firmly held by the tube. I did the crush mod to mine, I crushed it slightly so the stick is held firmly by the tube. This seems to work well.
 
Ya that is exactly what happened.. the bolts have been switched so they no longer hit the timing belt.. I would say it was minimal damage to a new timing belt.. (knocks on wood)
 
You will want to do a full timing job on it. New belts (2 if you still have the balance shafts), tensioner and the 2 pulleys. May be a good time to change the water pump too if you have the extra money to do so if you don't know the condition of it. Also get yourself a timing gear cover. You should never have that belt exposed to any possibility of foreign objects getting to it.
 
I didn't know that the pcv could leak boost causing the stick to pop out
Yup. The PCV valve is basically just a 1-way check valve designed to only allow vacuum to pull on the crankcase. But when they fail (which is common), then leak positive pressure into the crankcase. And it pushes pressure out of the path of least resistance - which in most cases is the dipstick tube.
 
Not trying to bump the thread, I know we kind of got on the timing belt issue.. I went onto JNZtuning to see about complete timing belt kits and possibly a waterpump.. thats give or take like 400 bucks in parts.. My question is, they say theres unique tension for certain build dates.. I was told it was a 6 bolt swap, but how do I tell what heads on it and what do you do if mines not a 6 bolt head? Am I screwed?
 
T belt tensioner has nothing to do with the head, the style of tensioner will have to do with what oil pump housing you have, and judging from your engine photo I can see a 1g cam angle sensor. So chances are you have a 1g oil pump housing, meaning you will have a 1g t belt tensioner. If you have a 6 bolt swap, there is a way to tell that also, I believe that all 1g oil pans are flat all the way around. 2g oil pans have a bump curve by the oil pump housing on the timing belt side of the engine.

Also from your picture I can tell that you have a 2g cylinder head by the style of water neck filler you have. You also have a 2g intake manifold.
 
Can you just use a check valve in place of the PCV valve? I ordered the plastic ones suggested on this site.
 
I have a question about pcv, I don't see why you can not hook the crank case vent to the exhaust system down stream. The theory is that the exhaust will create a ventury effect creating vacuum, the exhaust would suck the crank case fume out instead of putting it into your intake.
 
I have a question about pcv, I don't see why you can not hook the crank case vent to the exhaust system down stream. The theory is that the exhaust will create a ventury effect creating vacuum, the exhaust would suck the crank case fume out instead of putting it into your intake.

You would have to ask 99GSTracer (Paul) about that because I remember him talking about it in a previous thread (Don't remember if it worked or not for his application but it might for you.)

I know a lot of V8 guys use that method though, but the thing is, there has to be a decent vacuum pulling the crankcase fumes out, if there isn't, your motor oil can become contaminated. That's what I have heard.

In my personal experience and many others on this forum, have just vented both their PCV/ Valve cover breather to a catchcan with a filter on it with no ill effects, other than a mandatory oil change @ 3000 miles, and yes the oil does smell more pungent.

The thing about the ventilation system in our cars is that overtime the stock ventilation route will eventually cake your Intake manifold and get oil in your Intercooler piping. After 124,000 miles my intake manifold was removed, I could literally pull globs of mucus out of it.

The correct way to go would be to run a dual catchan, or a single catchcan with (2) in's, and (1) out.

Also, your timing belt looks a little iffy. It's a hard job to do if your just getting started, as already stated.

Good luck.
 
Can you just use a check valve in place of the PCV valve? I ordered the plastic ones suggested on this site.
You can do that as long as you still utilize the PCV regardless if it makes the proper air seal as that's what the inline valve is for.

I have a question about pcv, I don't see why you can not hook the crank case vent to the exhaust system down stream. The theory is that the exhaust will create a ventury effect creating vacuum, the exhaust would suck the crank case fume out instead of putting it into your intake.

I have heard about that and Vibrant Performance makes a pipe section or fitting just for that. It should work well seeing that the stock setup is under constant vacuum being hooked up to the intake pipe.

The only thing I'm wondering about is when the car is shut off and exhaust fumes travel up into the head and possibly contaminating the oil quicker. I suppose a check valve would prevent that from happening however :p
 
You would have to ask 99GSTracer (Paul) about that because I remember him talking about it in a previous thread (Don't remember if it worked or not for his application but it might for you.)

I know a lot of V8 guys use that method though, but the thing is, there has to be a decent vacuum pulling the crankcase fumes out, if there isn't, your motor oil can become contaminated. That's what I have heard.

In my personal experience and many others on this forum, have just vented both their PCV/ Valve cover breather to a catchcan with a filter on it with no ill effects, other than a mandatory oil change @ 3000 miles, and yes the oil does smell more pungent.

The thing about the ventilation system in our cars is that overtime the stock ventilation route will eventually cake your Intake manifold and get oil in your Intercooler piping. After 124,000 miles my intake manifold was removed, I could literally pull globs of mucus out of it.

The correct way to go would be to run a dual catchan, or a single catchcan with
(2) in's, and (1) out.

Also, your timing belt looks a little iffy. It's a hard job to do if your just getting started, as already stated.

Good luck.

Sorry this isn't my thread or car, I have vented mine to a catch can on one of my cars Previously but I was thinking of having the exhaust vacuum out the crank case pressure on my current car if it will work, I Think it will because the exhaust velocity will be much higher than a N/A car when the turbo is spooled.:hmm:
 
I have a question about pcv, I don't see why you can not hook the crank case vent to the exhaust system down stream. The theory is that the exhaust will create a ventury effect creating vacuum, the exhaust would suck the crank case fume out instead of putting it into your intake.
Our exhaust is too slow and turbulent after the turbine housing. You'll never even be able to pull a full inch of vacuum in the exhaust. It works well on N/A cars because they don't have a restrictive turbine to flow the exhaust through.

The only thing I'm wondering about is when the car is shut off and exhaust fumes travel up into the head and possibly contaminating the oil quicker. I suppose a check valve would prevent that from happening however :p
All exhaust e-vac systems use a check valve to prevent exhaust from entering the crankcase.
 
Our exhaust is too slow and turbulent after the turbine housing. You'll never even be able to pull a full inch of vacuum in the exhaust. It works well on N/A cars because they don't have a restrictive turbine to flow the exhaust through.


All exhaust e-vac systems use a check valve to prevent exhaust from entering the crankcase.

Good information to know. I never would have thought to be honest.

So it seems that you would want to keep it tapped into the intake pipe then eh?
 
So it seems that you would want to keep it tapped into the intake pipe then eh?
I've ran through every scenario, and yes, that is the most optimal solution in my opinion. With a good catch can (like what calan offers), the compressor stays clean, and the system is doing it job best when it needs it the most - at full boost.
 
i have been following this a little and i have decided to try running a hallow fitting to replace the pcv and see how that plays out but want to get something to create a vaccum pressure going but can't figure out what i should do ### i don't wanna reroute it back in the intake...


that was actually a huge help! i am gunna try the PCV Setup #2 – The Bigger Improved Factory Setup

if that don't do the job than its time to vent the v/c
 
i have been following this a little and i have decided to try running a hallow fitting to replace the pcv and see how that plays out but want to get something to create a vaccum pressure going but can't figure out what i should do ### i don't wanna reroute it back in the intake...
If you run a hollowed out PCV valve, make sure you DON'T hook it back up to the intake manifold like the factory configuration. Otherwise, your problems will only be compounded.
 
i have it the hose running down twords the ground and have a nipple over the spot on the manifold, and i didn't get a hollowed out pcv is just a fitting that fits threads in the whole with a nipple for the hose
 
hey guys.. I just replaced the pcv valve with an OEM one and bought a new dipstick... car was running fine through the day.. I got in at night and it was idling lower than usual.. opened the hood this morning and the dip stick was sticking out again..

i only have 8lbs of boost.. what else could be causing this issue?
 
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