is B&M short throw shifter adjustable?

[kujo]

I have a 98 gsx with a B&M short throw shifter and when I am going fast third gear feels like it is blocking me out so i have to push really hard to force it in. can you adjust these things? When i drive normaly, no high rev shifting, it shifts great and i love it. but when it gives me this problem it gets all messed up. it even started to not stay in fourth gear one day after forcing it into third a handfull of times.

 

[Pale Horse]

What kind of clutch do you have? It sounds to me like you're getting clutch lockout since you said it shifts fine at lower RPMs.

For what it's worth, I have found ACT street disc clutches to be absolute garbage. I can't shift above 6K with my ACT 2100HD due to clutch lockout. I should have bought a pucked clutch.

 

[spyderdrifter]

B&M shifters are not adjustable. I installed one on my last Spyder (was a great shifter), but you can't adjust it. Your problem lies within your drivetrain. Check your clutch fluid for starters. If it's low, it can cause engagement issues. Most likely not your problem, but worth a peek anyway. Are there any noises coming from your transmission during your gear engagement? If so, when is it making the noise, and what kind of noise? The type of clutch you have really won't cause an issue with getting into gear. However, bad synchros, worn pressure plate spring, and improperly loose parts can cause that problem.

What RPM range are you reaching when "driving fast" and shifting to 3rd gear?

 

[Pale Horse]

The type of clutch you have really won't cause an issue with getting into gear. However, bad synchros, worn pressure plate spring, improperly loose parts can cause that problem.

While I won't disagree with the latter part of your statement the former part is incorrect. Clutch lockout is a very well known issue where you cannot hit another gear at a specific range of high RPMs. Mine is between 6k and 6.2k (my rev limiter is 6200 so I do not know above that). He stated it functions flawlessly when driving normal or not in high RPM ranges. This sounds like clutch lockout defined.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I agree, and I do know what the lock out is. However, the type of clutch setup he has, will not determine the lockout point. The engine power makes that decision and thus restricts engagement. Wasn't trying to imply the lockout wasn't a cause, just that the type of clutch doesn't make a difference.

 

[Pale Horse]

Weird, I always thought it was specific clutches. Though the more I think about it I never got clutch lockout when I was running much less boost.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Whether he has an OEM clutch disc, or an ACT 2600 disc, the lockout point should be the same since the disc's major function is to transfer engine power to the transaxle. If he has a stock engine with an ACT 2600, his lockout is still the same as having an OEM disc. I do see what you're getting at though, and years ago I thought the same. But now that I've gone through school for this, I have a much better understanding of it all now.

 

[Pale Horse]

I'm just not quite sure of how that can be though. I have heard of people ditching street disc style clutches and picking up pucked clutches or multiple disk clutches and eliminating the clutch lockout problem.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Anything is possible, and I won't say you're wrong, unless I knew 100%, which I don't. I've never heard of it, but that doesn't make me 100% right either. Just relaying what I've learned in school. Worth more research in my opinion, even if that's not the OP's problem, but for future knowledge.

 

[kujo]

i bought the car recently so the mod list he gave me says it has a SBR 2600 street disc i dont know what SBR is though. also i does not make any noise. my revs are any where from prob 5k to redline when trying to go into 3rd.

also previous owner said he just had it dynoed and it made 320/310 @ 20psi. im not sure if that helps with what you were talking about the power being the problem

 

[spyderdrifter]

In that case, clutch lockout may be a possibility. Do you shift that high for other gears?

Also, in your first post, you mentioned not being able to get into 4th once. That there makes me think your synchronizer blocking rings might be wearing out. My first turbo DSMs 4th gear went out completely due to bad blocking rings. Just another possibility.

 

[kujo]

when im racing i pretty much redline all the gears, 3rd is the only problem, although i cant say i have shifted redline into 5th yet thats pretty fast

 

[spyderdrifter]

If its only 3rd and the once for 4th, although lockout could be a cause, I don't think it is. I would lean more toward the start of your synchro blocking rings being worn. How often are you racing and using 3rd under such loads? What kind of racing? I'm not a big fan of redlining even for racing, but to each there own..

 

[kujo]

i dont know much about cars im learning as i go so i will have to look into the syncro ring. yeah the 4th gear problem was after racing around and forcing 3rd a few times. then the rest of the day 4th would pop out if i didnt push it in real hard. the difference was when i slam 3rd gear in it still clicks in real nice and solid. 4th felt soft and springy no solid click.

i do not race very much. i usually just drive the speed limit and speed on the on ramps to the freeway. i have only really pushed it two or three times. but it does it even when i speed a little bit.

 

[spyderdrifter]

When mine was going out, 4th would engage most of the time if I slammed it into gear. Eventually, it would pop out of gear after getting it into gear, that's about when I stopped using it. With increase in power, and no upgrades to the transaxle, the parts will wear out quicker from the loads of racing. I'd bet its your blocking rings.

The rings are simple to replace, compared to anything on an automatic transmission, but if you're just learning, having an experienced mechanic look at it is a wise choice. A trusted, experienced mechanic that is. I don't trust anyone to touch my car

 

[kujo]

ok i will see if i can get someone to look at it and get it fixed. thanks for your help i would have just kept driving until something major happend . it sucks being a newbie

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

B&M shifters are not adjustable. I installed one on my last Spyder (was a great shifter), but you can't adjust it.

I just wanted to correct this statement. A B&M shifter IS adjustable, just not in the way the OP was probably thinking. You can adjust it for a 50% or 75% reduction in throw. That is of course assuming you have a real B&M and not some eBay knockoff.

Your issue most likely lies in your clutch/syncros like has already been stated a few times.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I don't mind being wrong, but where does it adjust for throw?

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[TWOpointFORliter]

The shift pin on the very bottem that the shifter cable goes on can be placed in either of those holes to adjust the amount of throw.

I'm not trying to start a pissing match but felt the info could be useful in case anyone comes across the thread in the future.

 

[TSiAWD666]

Jmonet1620 is right. There are two settings for varying the throw reduction. This has nothing to do with the OP's issues though.

 

[GPTourer]

He's right, but its 35% and 50% reduction of throw. I had mine at 50% for the longest time and every time it came up on the forums, most people recommended the 35% setting. So I finally changed it a while back and it is a lot better. The effort drops considerably and you barely noticed the extra distance. It makes it lot easier to get in to gear and to just place the gears in casual driving.

 

[untouchablecc]

A quick and easy test to see if you have a dragging clutch is to go out to a flat parking lot where your not drifting and rev the engine to around 6k in neutral and see if the car starts to pull forward. If it does you have a dragging clutch issue.

Have you checked your engine mounts? Are the soft or worn out? If so that will keep you from getting a solid 3rd gear shift.

I have a BM shifter and Im having a little trouble with 3rd but my engine mount on the cross member is shot so Im going to start there and work my way through the easy stuff.

Just some small things to think about.

 

[spyderdrifter]

How do engine mounts affect gear changes? The one you're describing is a roll-stop mount that only controls forward/rearward inertia from the engine. If 2G clutches used mechanical linkage and not the hydraulic system they do have, then you would have a great point, but they are hydraulic and therefore engine movement from a less than perfect mount should not ever cause gear change problems. Even with roll-stops completely worn away to the metal, won't cause gear change problems since the shifter linkage is mounted to the transaxle and doesn't push the transaxle.