Is a 2.3l Stroker right for me?

[Malero5]

Hey all, I own a 1990 Laser RS. I have a 3 inch turbo back exhaust and im using a turbo controller to push the stock turbo to 16 psi. I plan on getting a FMIC with 3 inch piping, a walboro 255 hp fuel pump with a AFPR, and a MAF. I have an engine with 126k on it and i know its gonna go soon. My step father and I are planning on buying a junkyard motor in the mean time and rebuild it. We are looking at about a 2,500 dollar budget (after we buy the motor). I was wondering how long I could run my stock turbo for with this kind of setup? I dont plan on getting new injectors untill i get the new turbo. What if I had this setup with a regular rebuilt 2.0? Could it be feesible to runt he stock turbo to 18 pounds for another 20k miles?

BTW we are planning on doing everyhitng ourselves excepts for the machin shop work. If we were to spend 1,500 dollars on machin shop work, what kind of t hings oculd I have done? I just wanna do this right the first time so that when I do make this my non daily driver it can take the heat.

 

[liquordrunk]

i have a 91 talon tsi.. u can get a stoker kit from www.Slowboyracing.com for 1600... now the thing is do you plan on reusing the parts off of your car now??? Cause its not wise to reuse the front oil pump cover.. on a new motor.. specially since you dont want it to fail on a new motor.. my famous words are.."When in doubt, Stroker out!" my motor went and i stroked it with out thinkin twice.. but mine costs me around 3200 since i got ross pistons and manely rods which are $$$.. anyway.. 2500 jsut for the motor INTERNALLY you mean cause as in just to build a long block with head work and new springs and valves and guides .. i would try to find the cheap shop but i didnt spend but like 400 in machine work ..go for it man search up a little bit using hte search button so u can understand the type of things it takes to build a stroker or u could go with a Forged 2.0 fo a little cheaper but hten about whats another 500 to stroke it

 

[T71-TALON]

I would stay away from slowboy racing, I have seen to many problems with motors that have came from there. But that is just me I am sure there are people that have had good experiences with them. Stick with a 2.0L

 

[hostile]

You would be better of doing a stock rebuild and getting a nice turbo setup with the rest of your money.

Running the stock turbo on a built stroker would be painfull IMO.

 

[TargeT]

I would stay away from slowboy racing, I have seen to many problems with motors that have came from there. But that is just me I am sure there are people that have had good experiences with them. Stick with a 2.0L

my SBR short block is just peachy keen

and i am braking it in with a T25

 

[1fastlaser]

comes down to how fast your wanna go,and what you want....all i got to say is a 2.3 in a fwd is gonna be a spintastic time......or do you just want it so you can say "i got a 2.3".....make sure your doing it for the right reasons...a 2.0 with a nice sized turbo on it will be just as good as a 2.3..but alittle less torque depending on turbo,so it would be more controllable,but who cars,just think what your want,and do it right the first time,getting a 2.3 or 2.4 just to say you have it is ###

 

[boostedinaz]

Hey all, I own a 1990 Laser RS. I have a 3 inch turbo back exhaust and im using a turbo controller to push the stock turbo to 16 psi. I plan on getting a FMIC with 3 inch piping, a walboro 255 hp fuel pump with a AFPR, and a MAF. I have an engine with 126k on it and i know its gonna go soon. My step father and I are planning on buying a junkyard motor in the mean time and rebuild it. We are looking at about a 2,500 dollar budget (after we buy the motor). I was wondering how long I could run my stock turbo for with this kind of setup? I dont plan on getting new injectors untill i get the new turbo. What if I had this setup with a regular rebuilt 2.0? Could it be feesible to runt he stock turbo to 18 pounds for another 20k miles?

BTW we are planning on doing everyhitng ourselves excepts for the machin shop work. If we were to spend 1,500 dollars on machin shop work, what kind of t hings oculd I have done? I just wanna do this right the first time so that when I do make this my non daily driver it can take the heat.

Why dont you tell us your goals. That way we can help you make a good decision. I see so many people now that want to have a fully forged 2.4 with a stage 22 head and HKS 900 cams, just to run a low 13. Find out what your REALISTIC goals are and build a motor around that. Also dont let people tell you that if you have a forged motor you can tos what ever turbo you want on there. That is true but if you only want to make 400 WHP or perhaps run low 12's they you just wasted money to try and keep up with the Jones.

 

[Malero5]

Well, it all depends on what i can afford att he time. This car is going to be mt daily drive for about the next 60k miles. I am hoping for the stock turbo to hold out so that i can put in a nice T25 in there when i make it non street legal (we have kinda rough emission laws here in idaho, would it ever be feasible to run a big turbo under hard emission?). If my turbo goes out 30k or so miles after the rebuild i wanted to get a 16g turbo, mebbe an evo III one. However, I do have goals to make this car fast, just not now. But NOW is the time fo rthe rebuild. Thats why i need the advice.

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

I plan on making about 400 whp and running mid 12's and I have forged internals...guess its a waste of money to build a forged motor that will barely break a sweat at those kind of power levels vs. one thats on the virge of nuclear melt-down? I know forged internals can withstand a little more detonation with peace of mind because we all have those tiny little boo-boos while tuning. I know the stock bottom end can hold 400hp, but its easier to trust running that kind of power with parts specefically designed with that intention in mind. Build whatever you want, but the block is the foundation of power.

 

[bigjdog84]

I'd go with a set of wiseco's from buschur (very good price) and 1g rods with ARP rod bolts. Use the stock 1g rods assuming they are good shape, get the crank polished, and all your machine work done by a reputable shop. You can have all this done for under 1k if you are doing the assembly yourself, thats including good bearings, freeze plugs, OEM gaskets & seals, etc. etc. Then just take the rest and sink it into some decent mods.
Later/joe

 

[definitiveno]

I have a 2 liter, I'm happy with it

 

[DsMWookie]

Okay....first off FWD should def. stick to the 2.0 traction is hard enough with that engine it would be a pointless 4th gear pull car. As far as a turbo yes you can pass emissions with a 16g if tuned properly. A T-25 would get killed by a stroker.


Here's my rebuild list:

Weisco Pistons/Eagle Rods 790$ shipped
ROCK oil pump (front cover and gears) 165$ shipped
ROCK gasket set 135$ shipped
Clevite77 rods and mains 67$ picked up from Napa Auto
ARP head studs 100$ shipped


Machine Work:

Balancing 250$
Boring .20over/deck the block/polish crank/file fit rings/resurface the head 265$
Assembling the short block another 265$

Wookie Wookie

 

[Slowboy]

Well, it all depends on what i can afford att he time. This car is going to be mt daily drive for about the next 60k miles. I am hoping for the stock turbo to hold out so that i can put in a nice T25 in there when i make it non street legal (we have kinda rough emission laws here in idaho, would it ever be feasible to run a big turbo under hard emission?). If my turbo goes out 30k or so miles after the rebuild i wanted to get a 16g turbo, mebbe an evo III one. However, I do have goals to make this car fast, just not now. But NOW is the time fo rthe rebuild. Thats why i need the advice.

Save some of your $2,500.00 and build a big rod 2.0L motor with Wiseco 8.8:1 and go .020" over. Take rods to a machine shop and have them pressed on the big rods.

Buy a set of ARP rod bolts, have your big rods mag'd, and have the big end re-con'd with the ARP's in place.

Now you have the money for:

ARP head studs
Cometic head gasket
Complete gasket kit

If you want to go a little further, send the head to us for a 3 angle valve job, and a nice new set of SS valves. (Please do no re-use 100k old stock valves)

This should still leave you with a little money left over, and a really fun motor!

MGH