The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Is the 2.3L Stroker Kit worth and extra $700?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kicker91laser said:
I've heard the same thing, over and over again. I just don't see spending that much on a block and rebuild/replace it within 10-20k miles. I would build a stroker if they had a better track record.
I know one 2.3 motor that has a good record. It was in a issue of sport compact car. I don't know the details exactly, but it was a daily driver, and from the sound of it, he had a pretty reliable setup.
 
white 2g awd said:
see, i did some research on here too, and for one, people say that the 2.3l has bad rod ratios, and would have increased cylinder wall wear and bearing wear....and for two, how many people are running with a 2.3l with over 20k miles so far....i'm not saying that they can't, but i have no proof that they are, i don't want to put another engine in my car, i want reliability long term. so if some one can enlighten me on how its just as reliable if not more, i thank you, because i will hopefully have one this summer then.


Well the 2.3 strokers havebt been widely used for very long so thats prob why you havent heard of many 20k+ mile motors. The 2.3 has the SAME rod/stroke ratio as a 2.4 SO that is a moot point. Now I know of a 2.4 motors that has made 570whp 500 on Pump gas anbd lasted quite a few 8000+rpm shifts with no issues at all. I myself have built a couple other strokers and have had no issues but these cars werent ready to make big power at the time the motors went out and they went big with the block from the door. Unfortunately the one customer of mine went to Iraq for a year just after installing a 60-1 in his car with a stroker. That one however is a stock rod motor since he was 100% sure he was gonna stay 16G and just have a better powerband. Now it appears he may go over that rods limits but he may just hit 400 or so on pump and be happy.

If you have the money do a 2.3. Dont be cheap about it though and spend the money on quality machine work and quality parts. I know I spend 800+ on machine work for each stroker motor I have built and that cuts DEEP into my profits as a shop but it allows me to know that I offer a superior motor using the best machinist I know of.

Later
 
yes, i can't remember his name, there was one in a evo 8 i know. but like you said batty 200, i thought the rod ratios with the 2.4 crank in the 2.0 block are worse than the 2.4 crank in the 2.4 block. because i have a stock 4g64 sitting in my driveway with 100k on the odometer (7 bolt 99 galant), but that is stock, can the block and crank handle the abuse of big turbos and high horsepower for long amounts of time is what i wonder about, with the worse rod ratio than the 2.0 has (is it reliable). would the 2.4 crank and 2.4 block be better, or are the blocks the same in that aspect, i know its just deck height, but is there something else? i know the aftermarket pistons and rods can, but can the block and crank.
 
kicker91laser said:
I've heard the same thing, over and over again. I just don't see spending that much on a block and rebuild/replace it within 10-20k miles. I would build a stroker if they had a better track record.
Werd. Last longer and go faster with a 2 liter.
 
Well thanks for all your guys help but I think im just gonna go w/ the 2.0 setup. I need something thats reliable and im not saying the 2.3L isnt reliable, its just that we dont really know how reliable it is yet. What am I going to do w/ the $700 I saved you might ask? Im going to buy DSMLINK of course so I can tune this bi***!
 
white 2g awd said:
yes, i can't remember his name, there was one in a evo 8 i know. but like you said batty 200, i thought the rod ratios with the 2.4 crank in the 2.0 block are worse than the 2.4 crank in the 2.4 block. because i have a stock 4g64 sitting in my driveway with 100k on the odometer (7 bolt 99 galant), but that is stock, can the block and crank handle the abuse of big turbos and high horsepower for long amounts of time is what i wonder about, with the worse rod ratio than the 2.0 has (is it reliable). would the 2.4 crank and 2.4 block be better, or are the blocks the same in that aspect, i know its just deck height, but is there something else? i know the aftermarket pistons and rods can, but can the block and crank.

Well the 2.0 Liter 6 bolt block has the front two and rear two mains connected which would be more desirable than on a 2.4 which has seperate main caps for all 5 mains. The cranks are all forged so the stregth there isnt a concern. The 2.3 stroker will have lighter pistons then the 2.4 liter which is another benfit to me as well. I would also say the 2.0 liter block fits better with the timing belts being stock and the timing covers all fitting properly so I see lots of benefits for the 2.3 liter motor using the 2.0 block. The only drawback is the necessary clearancing of the block for the stroker to fit. I also am sure that all the piston manufacuters made sure the ring pack with the oil support rails would hold up in the pin holes or else I doubt they would produce them if it was a bad design and ruin thier reputation.

Later
 
suicidal2af said:
Has anyone put any thought into a destroked 4g64?

I think magnus makes one, a 2.4 L block with a 4g63 crank so it's a 2.1L Not sure though, new to this scene (obviously).
 
suicidal2af said:
Has anyone put any thought into a destroked 4g64?
search and you can find some more info on it, but yea its a 2.1, from what i've read on here its got less bottom end, but can rev really high, making for a good drag strip motor, and with a big turbo would probably be pretty good. on another note, what about cryoing the crank block and pistons and such on the 2.4l? anybody think it would help live longer?? i've been seeing about how cryoing helps parts withstand more, like the new powerslot rotors, one race team lasted one race with them, then they used the cyro ones and were able to use them for 3 or 4 races....maybe it might help with wear on the block?? i know ffwd connection does this on there parts...i was kinda considering this on my new engine this summer too.
 
I don't see how anyone can call JAMs track record questionable ROFL That's hilarious! Anyway I just bought their stage 1 2.3 shortblock from 'em. I'm only looking for about 400 - 450ish for now, buuuuuut who knows, I guess if I want I can always throw on something bigger WTF
 
Street Surgeon said:
I don't see how anyone can call JAMs track record questionable ROFL That's hilarious! Anyway I just bought their stage 1 2.3 shortblock from 'em. I'm only looking for about 400 - 450ish for now, buuuuuut who knows, I guess if I want I can always throw on something bigger WTF


Well, you don't know the same people that I do. They had BAD experiences with JAM, and they were very pricey mistakes. Also, if you only wanted 400-450hp, it's good to see you wasted your money on a stroker, when a bone stock 2.0L can do that, without even breaking a sweat.
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
Well, you don't know the same people that I do. They had BAD experiences with JAM, and they were very pricey mistakes. Also, if you only wanted 400-450hp, it's good to see you wasted your money on a stroker, when a bone stock 2.0L can do that, without even breaking a sweat.

Hey, everyone has their stories man sorry for them. I have several friends that had excellent service and transactions with them so I didn't hesitate to do business with em. Oh and just because I laid the cash down for a stroker doesn't mean it was money wasted. Sure a 2.0 "could" have put down those numbers easily but I like a nice FAT powerband that the 2.0 just couldn't provide, and if I want to go for really big numbers it's all the better right? I mean if I was just looking for a short-term fix a built 2.0 would have been fine (and i do have a spare 6bolt with eagle rods waiting on pistons for shits) but it never hurts to go above and beyond. :thumb:

Not to mention other niceities like being able to make the same power but at less RPM's so when you shift you're not strung out to 8000+, that's not so easy on the tranny you know OMG
 
Street Surgeon said:
Not to mention other niceities like being able to make the same power but at less RPM's so when you shift you're not strung out to 8000+, that's not so easy on the tranny you know OMG

Neither is all the extra torque you are gonna make down low with the 2.3L. But, if you got the money to burn, god bless ya, and good luck.
 
Meh, it's a shep racing so I'm not tooooo concerned but thanks nonetheless. Oh and you can't get in to this game thinking that you're not gonna "burn" money one way or another. For goddsakes man we own DSM's OMG
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
Neither is all the extra torque you are gonna make down low with the 2.3L. But, if you got the money to burn, god bless ya, and good luck.

If you arent willing to build a trannie for a race car you shouldnt be modding it in the first place. Cheaping out is what gives 2.3 strokers a bad name. The concept of 2.3L strokers is solid and proven - its a combination of bad luck, cheapskate owners and misinformation that makes people think it has issues.
 
XakEp said:
If you arent willing to build a trannie for a race car you shouldnt be modding it in the first place. Cheaping out is what gives 2.3 strokers a bad name. The concept of 2.3L strokers is solid and proven - its a combination of bad luck, cheapskate owners and misinformation that makes people think it has issues.
I agree. why spend all the time and money in a nice 2.3L setup, then halfass the rest of it. Think about it. Also lets not turn this into a JAM customer service thread. Order from them if you want. you MAY or MAY NOT get good service, just be nice to them and hopefully they will do the same.
 
XakEp said:
If you arent willing to build a trannie for a race car you shouldnt be modding it in the first place. Cheaping out is what gives 2.3 strokers a bad name. The concept of 2.3L strokers is solid and proven - its a combination of bad luck, cheapskate owners and misinformation that makes people think it has issues.
No, no it's not. It's when reputable guys like russ cox go slower and break down all season long with a stroker, and then switch back to the 2 liter that leaves people thinking they have issues.
 
Initial DSM said:
I dont understand the big deal. Why not just get a 6 bolt 4G64 bottom end , rebuild it with a forged crank, Ross Pistons, Crower rods and be done with it? Who needs 2.0 or 2.3L...
I suppose your point would be valid if the fastest dsm wasn't a 2 liter.
 
Those are practicaly drag only track cars.
Plus the R&D into maxing out a 2.0L is consideringly more advanced than anyone thats meddled with a 2.4L
Regardless, its more displacement. So done right , there is no reason why it wouldnt be faster.
Most of us use these cars as daily drivers, so instead of building a trailer queen, i'd rather have a car I can drive on the street and still get moderate boost levels with the added torque.
 
Initial DSM said:
Those are practicaly drag only track cars.
Plus the R&D into maxing out a 2.0L is consideringly more advanced than anyone thats meddled with a 2.4L
Regardless, its more displacement. So done right , there is no reason why it wouldnt be faster......
rod stroke ratio.....
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top