Is the 2.3L Stroker Kit worth and extra $700?

[project_tsi]

Ok so Im rebuilding the engine and Id like to know from everyone that has the 2.3L stroker kit if it was worth an extra $700. I say and extra $700 because standard Wiseco pistons and eagle rods would run me about 700-800 w/ bearings. As on the other hand the 2.3L stroker kit would run $1500 for 4G64 crank, eagle rods and wiseco stoker pistons and clevites. So for the benefits that ive heard of are the engine having much more torque and your turbo will spool fully at lower RPM's, which is what i want, a car w/ a lot of low end torque w/ a PTE GT32 Turbo that spools up fully at a low RPM for a mostly daily driven car. For those out there w/ the 2.3L stroker setup, was it worth it? How much more of a noticeable torque gain did it give you? Did your turbo spool up fully at a significantly lower RPM? Overall what is your opinoin of this setup? Also if anyone could tell me is the 4G64 crank a 6bolt or a 7bolt crank? Thanks for everyones help.

 

[anomalyinva]

I went the 2.0 route, as I would rather rev higher. As well, people running stroker motors have been having problems with the flywheel bolts backing out due to vibration.

 

[Lunch_Box]

I would go with the 2.3L.

 

[definitiveno]

Sticking with the 2 liter here

 

[liquordrunk]

go with the 2.3 plus you will want to get a 6bolt 4GCS crank NOT a 7bolt 4g64 crank..... I run a 2.3 on a 60-1 FPRED and im tellin you the low end torque is awesome
www.jacksonautomachine.com sells an awesome kit for hte stroker.. also the bolck work costed me about 150 since i had .20 over pistons. you can find many 4GCS cranks around search the internet and also search junk yards for 91 sonsatas...
ITS WELL WORTH IT

 

[project_tsi]

how much higher revs are we talkin about here? I really never intend on going over 7500RPM. Will the 2.3L handle that OK? Also anyone else have the problem w/ the flywheel bolts backing out? Or anyone else have an opinion on the 4GCS crank? Also if you know of a place to get the stroker kit cheaper please speak up. thanks.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

go with the 2.3 plus you will want to get a 6bolt 4GCS crank NOT a 7bolt 4g64 crank..... I run a 2.3 on a 60-1 FPRED and im tellin you the low end torque is awesome
www.jacksonautomachine.com sells an awesome kit for hte stroker.. also the bolck work costed me about 150 since i had .20 over pistons. you can find many 4GCS cranks around search the internet and also search junk yards for 91 sonsatas...
ITS WELL WORTH IT

JAM wants $1900 for a 2.3L stroker kit? Go to www.carshopinc.com and get their 2.3L kit with MITSU bearings, and a new G4CS crank for only $1625. I paid $1700 out the door for my assembled 2.3L shortblock, with a reman'd crank, with the CSI kit. Plus, I"ve heard too many horror stories about JAM to buy anything from them. But, take this info as you may.

 

[anomalyinva]

how much higher revs are we talkin about here? I really never intend on going over 7500RPM. Will the 2.3L handle that OK? Also anyone else have the problem w/ the flywheel bolts backing out? Or anyone else have an opinion on the 4GCS crank? Also if you know of a place to get the stroker kit cheaper please speak up. thanks.

If you are staying below 7500, with occasional jaunts up to 8k, you will be fine. The strokers are great street/strip motors, the 2.0 is an amazing strip motor =)

 

[liquordrunk]

yes i have heard of carshopinc but never dealt with them i have dealt with JAM thats why i mentioned there name. and i run my stroker to 8 grand on a few occasions and 8500 on 2 occasions and nothing came from it but normally its 7750 on average i guess i run mine to.. I have never heard anything bad about CSI so maybe its a good deal you got. but anyway there is only one way to do it quote"When in doubt, Stroker out!"

 

[project_tsi]

OK but SBR has the stoker kit w a new crank for $1575. And whats the diff in a new and remaned crank? anything about a remand crank i should be a ware of? thanks, dan

 

[turbo90gsx]

Well, right now Im in the process of building a 2.3, and this is the route Im going. Junk yard 4GCS crank<$100, weisco pisons-$420, scat rods-$320, and clevite bearings(rod and mains)-$100. That totals to $940 for parts, everything except re-boaring. And If your on a tight budget, you could always use the 1g big rods, wich would save you even more money.

 

[project_tsi]

what exactly is the 4GCS crank out of and where should i be able to get one. Is the 4GCS crank better than the 4G64? If i get a 4GCS crank should i get it checked out or ground down or anything like that?

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Well, right now Im in the process of building a 2.3, and this is the route Im going. Junk yard 4GCS crank<$100, weisco pisons-$420, scat rods-$320, and clevite bearings(rod and mains)-$100. That totals to $940 for parts, everything except re-boaring. And If your on a tight budget, you could always use the 1g big rods, wich would save you even more money.

I hope you don't plan on throwing that crank into a new motor without at least getting it micropolished first. HOnestly, I'd go with the OEM bearings vs. Clevite. I have seen some nasty pics of Clevites. It's a few dollars more, but the overall savings in the long run is HUGE. And using stock 1G big rods basically defeats the purpose of going with a Stroker. 2.3/2.4L motors should be intended for making BIG power. More than the stock rods can handle. Plus, you gonna convert the press fit pin on the rod to a floating pin? How about wasting more money by shotpeening those stock rods while you are at it.

Just sounds like a ghetto way of building a ghetto motor. Do it right, the FIRST time.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

what exactly is the 4GCS crank out of and where should i be able to get one. Is the 4GCS crank better than the 4G64? If i get a 4GCS crank should i get it checked out or ground down or anything like that?

89-92 Hyundai Sonata. Check the junkyards. New cranks are $483 + s/h. Yes the 4GCS crank is better than the 4G64 due to the fact that it's a 6 bolt crank, vs. a 7 bolt for a 4G64.

 

[GPTourer]

2.3/2.4L motors should be intended for making BIG power. More than the stock rods can handle.

Why can't someone build a budget 2.3/4 for a street car and moderately sized turbo for a broader powerband and comfortable throttle response and be happy with 450whp or less on pump gas?

Is there not a way to do this without wasting money in the examples you speak?

 

[Steve Hebert]

Good thread going here with good info. Keep it up. I too am seriously considering 2.3 - in the future

 

[eclpsd1]

Why can't someone build a budget 2.3/4 for a street car and moderately sized turbo for a broader powerband and comfortable throttle response and be happy with 450whp or less on pump gas?

Is there not a way to do this without wasting money in the examples you speak?

A stroker engine is not really something you want to do cheaply. Its mostly for people who want to run larger turbos and higher boost levels. At minimum something along the lines of Slowboy Racings Stage 1 stroker kit would be ideal. There is nothing wrong with buying a used crank, but i would have it worked over pretty good before installing. Personally, I am having FFWD give mine the butcher treatment. But if that is too extreme id atleast have it micropolished and/or cryo treated.

 

[project_tsi]

Ok so are you saying the 4GCS crank is exactly the same as the 4G64 crank in specs except that the 4GCS is a 6 bolt and the 4G64 is a 7 bolt, thats the only difference? So whay about the stroker kit that SBR sells. they have both 6 bolt and 7 bolt versions available. both say they come w/ the 4G64 crank but do they actually send you a 4GCS crank if you order the 6 bolt version, or what, im confused....

 

[kicker91laser]

I was also considering stroking my 2.0 in the future, but isn't there some reliability issues that people are having with the stroker motors?

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Ok so are you saying the 4GCS crank is exactly the same as the 4G64 crank in specs except that the 4GCS is a 6 bolt and the 4G64 is a 7 bolt, thats the only difference? So whay about the stroker kit that SBR sells. they have both 6 bolt and 7 bolt versions available. both say they come w/ the 4G64 crank but do they actually send you a 4GCS crank if you order the 6 bolt version, or what, im confused....

Call up SBR and ask them what cars came with a 6 bolt 4G64.

 

[95Eclipsers]

Reliability issues? what can be more unreliable than the 2.0, im doind the 4g64 2.4 swap, and going .20 wiseco from sbr, and im gettin the block and crank from mitsu junkyard. This way ive been researching and i can keep my tranny, and it vertually eliminates crank walk compare to the 2.0 7bolt, im not sure about 1g rods i got some but not sure if i wanna use them. or go eagle

 

[GPTourer]

and it vertually eliminates crank walk compare to the 2.0 7bolt,

How can you virtually eliminate CW? A '64 7-bolt bottom is as CW prone as a 2.0L 7-bottom, right?

I think there are 6-bolt 4G64's, but whatever Galant it was is rarer then even the Hyundai engine.

 

[kicker91laser]

Reliability issues? what can be more unreliable than the 2.0, im doind the 4g64 2.4 swap, and going .20 wiseco from sbr, and im gettin the block and crank from mitsu junkyard. This way ive been researching and i can keep my tranny, and it vertually eliminates crank walk compare to the 2.0 7bolt, im not sure about 1g rods i got some but not sure if i wanna use them. or go eagle

I'm guessing your talking about the 7 bolt 4g63, because the 6 bolts are pretty reliable

 

[white 2g awd]

see, i did some research on here too, and for one, people say that the 2.3l has bad rod ratios, and would have increased cylinder wall wear and bearing wear....and for two, how many people are running with a 2.3l with over 20k miles so far....i'm not saying that they can't, but i have no proof that they are, i don't want to put another engine in my car, i want reliability long term. so if some one can enlighten me on how its just as reliable if not more, i thank you, because i will hopefully have one this summer then.

 

[kicker91laser]

see, i did some research on here too, and for one, people say that the 2.3l has bad rod ratios, and would have increased cylinder wall wear and bearing wear....and for two, how many people are running with a 2.3l with over 20k miles so far....i'm not saying that they can't, but i have no proof that they are, i don't want to put another engine in my car, i want reliability long term. so if some one can enlighten me on how its just as reliable if not more, i thank you, because i will hopefully have one this summer then.

I've heard the same thing, over and over again. I just don't see spending that much on a block and rebuild/replace it within 10-20k miles. I would build a stroker if they had a better track record.