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intake manifold off, what should i do?

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tstkl

20+ Year Contributor
3,889
74
Feb 10, 2005
SoCal, California
so my intake manifold is finally off, (and the new one isnt going on for a while, for reasons that i may choose to reviel later...) anyways, while its off, should i cover up the head? anything i dont want to leave exposed? also, my ac compressor doesnt work, should i remove that now? if the job is harder than say a 3 or 4 out of 10 i dont feel like starting it seeing as i havent finished the smim or the fmic install yet... hopefully ill get the fmic on before the smim can go on so i can install everything except the smim and maybe wash the car (still havent since new paint job cuz its not running and the bumper isnt on...)
 
Pull that AC! You said it doesn't work and you don't want to repair or convert it the it needs to go. As for what else to do, 1.Get a Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket. It will keep the heat of the head from transferring to the intake manifold and better stabilize your intake temps. The gasket is also reusable, but make sure you get all the old gasket material off the head and manifold. 2.take your throttle body, remove the IAC Motor (Idle Air Control) and clean out the throttle body with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner. 3.Remove all the vacuum lines pertaining to the emissions control systems and block off the EGR Valve. Make sure you throw it away. Its just weight if you leave it in after you block it off. 4.When you put the manifold back on install the bracket underneath it and not the huge piece of cast iron between the manifold and the head. Just get a few washers to space out the studs since the bracket is gone. I also agree with darkness_fallz:dsm:
 
dont know what you said in 4, but i have a mitsu gasket already, and do you have any links to removing the ac... are there any fluids i need to drain?
 
tstkl said:
dont know what you said in 4, but i have a mitsu gasket already, and do you have any links to removing the ac... are there any fluids i need to drain?


Number 4 is actually the one of the two brackets used to pull the motor from the car. One is above the manifold by the power steering and the other is between the throttle body and the cylinder head connecting them together. If you still don't know which bracket I'm referring to the let me know and I'll post a pic. You may not even have it on the car since someone may have removed it already.
The old Freon (R-12) ac systems produce a large amount of CFC's (chlorofluorocarbons) aren't very good for your health (some of the reason it was banned). If the system hasn't worked in some time than it is more than likely dead and just disconnet the lines and remove. If it still works or just quit working then break the seal of the line on the compressor with a rag over the line and stand back. Don't breath in any fumes and do it outside. The condenser in front of the radiator is also easy to remove. Just drain your cooling system when cold, remove your fans, take off the radiator brackets, pull the radiator, and you'll have easy access to the condenser. use a set of bolt cutters or large tin snips and remove it and the lines. The passenger side line runs under and behind the battery so if you don't feel like tackling that line make sure after you snip it off put a rubber cap over the end. The oil used in ac systems is nasty and cleanup is a b%t*h. Remove the line when you get a chance, but don't let it sit there permanently. Also pull the ac pulley assembly from the front of the motor. The rubber cap you can get a any local parts store. As for the Mitsu gasket the Hondata Nylon Gasket is well worth the money. You should atleast look into it. Hondata.com :dsm:
 
as long as your at TDC you dont need to necessarily cover it up. if all your valves are closed nothing will get in your head. its a good idea but FYI.
 
the battery is out and i was just about to remove the charcole canister... all other vac lines have been removed... as for someone previously removing something from the car, it didnt happen, the two owners before me kept the car stock. only thing i can think you are talking about is the y brace that was on the throttle body, that i removed, since im installing a sheet metal intake i wont be using it since it wouldnt work. as for the ac system, according to the documentation, "ac compressor froze, belt cut" so i dont have ac because there is no belt on the ac compressor, because it froze. i dunno if it will still have freon in the system, but i dont really have the time to roll it outside, and getting it back inside is a little uphill,... so i dont think im going to do it, unless your posative there is no freon in my system....
 
tstkl said:
the battery is out and i was just about to remove the charcole canister... all other vac lines have been removed... as for someone previously removing something from the car, it didnt happen, the two owners before me kept the car stock. only thing i can think you are talking about is the y brace that was on the throttle body, that i removed, since im installing a sheet metal intake i wont be using it since it wouldnt work. as for the ac system, according to the documentation, "ac compressor froze, belt cut" so i dont have ac because there is no belt on the ac compressor, because it froze. i dunno if it will still have freon in the system, but i dont really have the time to roll it outside, and getting it back inside is a little uphill,... so i dont think im going to do it, unless your posative there is no freon in my system....

Must not have read your original post in full detail. I didn't know you were sticking in a sheet-metal manifold. So yes the "Y" bracket won't work. As for the AC compressor, not 100% sure there is no freon in it, but the odds are unlikely. I say open the garage door and cut away. If you crack on of the lines and there is some pressure then you'll know some freon was still in there. Just get some fans to blow it out of the garage just in case. :dsm:
 
i think it can wait, ill just get paul at newlogics to help me out...LOL
 
peregrine said:
as long as your at TDC you dont need to necessarily cover it up. if all your valves are closed nothing will get in your head. its a good idea but FYI.
It's impossible to get all intake valves to close at the same time no matter where you put the engine at not to mention you don't want anything to get into the intake ports even if you're able to close all intake valves, stuff all four intake ports with paper towel.
 
wow, thats exactly what i did, and also i just ignored that guy cuz i also know that with the design of our crack, two cylinders are up if two are down, and even if they are all in the middle, the valves are still open a little for every single one.... whatever it doesnt matter, the paper towel is in,... but one question,... what is the thing in my hand?
 

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tstkl said:
wow, thats exactly what i did, and also i just ignored that guy cuz i also know that with the design of our crack, two cylinders are up if two are down, and even if they are all in the middle, the valves are still open a little for every single one.... whatever it doesnt matter, the paper towel is in,... but one question,... what is the thing in my hand?
Looks like the 90 ignition capacitor, crc filter. Leave it pluged in. :dsm:
 
well i planned on leaving it plugged in, but my question was, does it need to be grounded (im assuming it does) and is it ok if i relocate it somewhere else,... aka i have no intentions of keeping that damn intake manifold stay because it weighs like 1 lb...
 
tstkl said:
well i planned on leaving it plugged in, but my question was, does it need to be grounded (im assuming it does) and is it ok if i relocate it somewhere else,... aka i have no intentions of keeping that damn intake manifold stay because it weighs like 1 lb...

It grounds to its body so yes bolt it down. :dsm:
 
i am also doing an fmic install, and because the ac line is in the way of the fmic, it looks like i will be removing it,... but what is that cylindraic pump looking thing on the passengers side of the radiator, in front of it. is that part of the ac too? i would like to remove that too since its also in the way.... once those are removed and i finish cutting my holes and the middle bracket i can mount my fmic finally... does anyone know of a good hand tool for cutting those things? im kinda short on cash and dont want to buy a sawzall....
 
tstkl said:
i am also doing an fmic install, and because the ac line is in the way of the fmic, it looks like i will be removing it,... but what is that cylindraic pump looking thing on the passengers side of the radiator, in front of it. is that part of the ac too? i would like to remove that too since its also in the way.... once those are removed and i finish cutting my holes and the middle bracket i can mount my fmic finally... does anyone know of a good hand tool for cutting those things? im kinda short on cash and dont want to buy a sawzall....


Its part of the AC System and yes you can remove it. Use bolt cutters or large tin snips. :dsm:
 
does anyone have a link to a removal of the entire ac, including disposal and removal of freon from the ac system? if i just take bolt cutters to the ac lines that are in my way im assuming that freon will go everywhere and the police reports wont be pretty...
 
tstkl said:
does anyone have a link to a removal of the entire ac, including disposal and removal of freon from the ac system? if i just take bolt cutters to the ac lines that are in my way im assuming that freon will go everywhere and the police reports wont be pretty...
If you release freon into the air you can be fined, a shop will not charge you too much to remove the freon from your system. I don't know of a good write up on how to remove the AC but, it's really not too difficult.
 
tstkl said:
does anyone have a link to a removal of the entire ac, including disposal and removal of freon from the ac system? if i just take bolt cutters to the ac lines that are in my way im assuming that freon will go everywhere and the police reports wont be pretty...


I just got done removing an ac system from a customer car not even 10min ago. the AC worked when I installed the motor about a year ago. The car sat for the last 6months ant there was nothing in the lines when I cut them. If the system has been dead for some time, given the age of the car and the systems seals, there is nothing in there. :dsm:
 
was there still pressure in the system, because when i tested that bike tire vavle thingy on the drivers side line, there was pressure, i didnt want to smell to see if it was freon or not, but there was pressure...

here is exactly what the invoice says

4/26/2004
89054 miles (the car currently has 93340, i love my eagle talon, but i wont drive it...)

Vehicle smoking, check and report.
ac compressor is frozen, belt damaged.
needs to replace ac compressor and
replace belt. customer declined ac
compressor, remove belt. customer will no
longer have use of ac.



so its been over a year.....well over a year... and about 4k miles....
 
bah freon aint gonna kill you. just make sure the garage door is open and you dont hang around inside the garage until its mostly gone.

i broke one of the pressurized metal lines in my cousins n/t when i was trying to get the head off. we both kinda gave eachother the "oh shit, what do we do now" look. i then opened the garage door all the way and we went inside. came back in 5 minutes, the freon was all gone and the leak had stopped.
 
well i guess its convinente my car is light as hell and i can probably get two friends over to push it back up the hill after im done... also that the cap for that valve if screwed on too tight, will open the valve, aka tighten and stand back....
 
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