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heads off now what should I do?

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foxman97

Proven Member
58
1
Apr 16, 2014
stillwater, Oklahoma
I've had the head off and stripped for about a month now, have 4 bent intake valves and 2 exhaust valves with burrs from the keepers I'd like to replace. Best I can tell is that old carbon being cleaned from the intake hung the valves open. My question becomes what should I use on the head while it's out? I want to use quality parts but don't want to break the bank or go overboard as I plan on rebuilding a 6 bolt from the ground up this spring. The most this head will see is maybe 16 psi from a 16g.
My plans so far are:
Felpr head gasket set
New valves from autozone
3g lifters
I do not plan to surface the head as everything appears within spec (yes I know how to properly check this)
So ideally this head will only be ran for maybe a year, probably at stock to 15 psi from a 14b, will I be able to get away with this for now?
 
Own parts have deck milled anyway do it the right way or pay later plus it's cheap. That's me after learning the hard way.[DOUBLEPOST=1416667340][/DOUBLEPOST]Mistsubishi parts.
 
egnbldr is a seller on ebay. From my experience (and others here) he sells a quality product that does its job at a great price.

Do you plan to use the composite or MLS gasket? Since you plan to stay moderately boosted, I would stick with the composite gasket because it is more forgiving on the surface preparation and you do not plan to surface the head. I know that you are checking the head, but if it is even slightly out of spec, it should be surfaced.

Since you will be installing new valves, that will require new seats to be cut. This will involve a valve job.

Do you have any cracked valve guides?
 
When checking the head I found it wasn't even slightly out of spec, which doesn't surprise me since it's a virgin car that wasn't driven hard. I do plan to go with a composite gasket right now. As for the valves it was my understanding that I do not need new seats cut as long as I properly lap the valves. Is this untrue? And as far as I can tell no guides are cracked
 
Do you have any cracked guides?

Since you had bent valves, it is a great possibility that you have cracked guides. If the guides have to be replaced, you must cut new seats.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/

Halfway through post #4 you will find two pictures of a cracked valve guides. They are hairline cracks seen in the intake (gold) valve guides.
 
Just to clarify, I am not talking about the valves themselves but rather the valve guides that are installed in the head. Its the 14th and 15th picture of post number 4 in the link above.
 
Well you should replace valve guides with bronze guides, they are better for a number of reasons. The main one is the ability to run a little tighter valve to guide clearances which will allow less oil to travel down the valve. If too much oil gets in the chamber, it can cause knock. I believe engbldr sells those as well and yes you will need a valve job, lapping isn't gonna cut it. This is a bonus cause a good 3 angle will make it easier for air to get in chamber. Just make sure you choose the right machine shop as there a few critical specs to get right. If they don't it will make your build a nightmare.
 
Yeah I'm definitely not looking to do a hack job, however at the same time I'm not wanting to waste money on unnecessary things at the moment. When I start my engine build in the spring I have full intentions on bronze guides, 3 angle valve job, all new valves, dual springs etc however this current head job is just to get the car running for now
 
The sealed power valves the box store offer are not a very good quality. I broke one at the stem and head, knocked a hole in a piston, and trashed a head, and crank. Sent coolant and chunks of piston thru the bottom end. Valve was about a month old on a stock engine.
In my honest opinion, don't buy cheap box store valves.
 
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