Back again, but this time with short route piping for my FMIC. If I actually did this short route from the get-go [ instead of the other writeup ] I estimated a total of $425 for my entire FMIC setup.
I also switched from 3 pieces to the LICP to 2 pieces and t-bolts when i did the switchover.
Parts:
-USED RRE TB elbow [ 2.5" to 3.5" ] - 25 shipped eBay
-3.5" to 2.5" silicon reducer - Extreme motorsports 30 bucks
-4 foot 2.5" SS pipe from JEGS.com - 10 bucks
-RRE type-s flange and gasket - 20 bucks
-2.5" 90* bend - 30 bucks
-45* silicon elbow - 30 shipped eBay
-extra 2.5" 3 ply silicon couplers laying around the house - free
-extra J bend pipes laying around the house - free
-5-6 T bolt clamps - 25 shipped eBay
-extra worm screw clamps laying around the house - free
-welding 50 bucks
setup goes as follows:
top: TB elbow > reducer > 2.5" pipe w. BOV flange > 45* elbow > 90* pipe elbow > 2.5" coupler
bottom: SBR 16G J-pipe and LICP [ goes to stock location ] >coupler > 2.5" J pipe bend > coupler > 2.5" J pipe bend > coupler
PICS:
you MUST cut the frame support in order to shove a pipe through like in the next picture. a sawzall is definitely recommended for this one.
note* if you measure and adust your BOV flange before it's welded, you can reuse the stock hose to the intake pipe. Mine took MINOR mods to make it fit.
I also switched from 3 pieces to the LICP to 2 pieces and t-bolts when i did the switchover.
Parts:
-USED RRE TB elbow [ 2.5" to 3.5" ] - 25 shipped eBay
-3.5" to 2.5" silicon reducer - Extreme motorsports 30 bucks
-4 foot 2.5" SS pipe from JEGS.com - 10 bucks
-RRE type-s flange and gasket - 20 bucks
-2.5" 90* bend - 30 bucks
-45* silicon elbow - 30 shipped eBay
-extra 2.5" 3 ply silicon couplers laying around the house - free
-extra J bend pipes laying around the house - free
-5-6 T bolt clamps - 25 shipped eBay
-extra worm screw clamps laying around the house - free
-welding 50 bucks
setup goes as follows:
top: TB elbow > reducer > 2.5" pipe w. BOV flange > 45* elbow > 90* pipe elbow > 2.5" coupler
bottom: SBR 16G J-pipe and LICP [ goes to stock location ] >coupler > 2.5" J pipe bend > coupler > 2.5" J pipe bend > coupler
PICS:
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you MUST cut the frame support in order to shove a pipe through like in the next picture. a sawzall is definitely recommended for this one.
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note* if you measure and adust your BOV flange before it's welded, you can reuse the stock hose to the intake pipe. Mine took MINOR mods to make it fit.
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