Introduction
Many have purchase the 2G SS/Autochrome FMIC kit w/ short route piping + 1g bov flange. So I wrote a step by step write-up. I can't complain about this intercooler, Measures at 28x10.5x3.5 same as a 2-216 identical to AGPTurbo FMIC Kits.
Been pressure tested at 50-60psi for 30min to an hour by some Dsmtuner members and I have it set at 25psi and I have dyno numbers to prove that is legit and works great. Check out the dyno pic at the end of this write-up.
Tools & Parts you need:
Ratchet with 10mm socket
5" Disk Grinder or dremel might work too (cut off tool)
2 nuts, 2 long 10mm bolts and washers
Black or Gray spray paint
10mm bolt (One that you might have laying around)
Some are missing 1 coupler and 2t-bolt clamps so get real silicone
couplers (Not home depot crap that will leak and rip)
Drill tool
Preface:
This is how the FMIC + Pipes looked when they arrive at my door. Welds look great and it was well wrapped.
Installation steps:
First, I'm assuming everyone knows how to remove their bumper correct? If not here is a link of How to remove 2gen bumper.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99973
Also, to make the installation easier. Remove the headlight which should only take a minute once the bumper is off. Here is a quick overview of how to remove stock oem headlight. 2 screws on back of the headlight, 1bolt on the top of the frame (visible) and 1 bolt on the bottom of the headlight which is hidding by the bumper (visible if the bumper is remove) Unscrew them all.
Finally lets start
Step1. Here is an overall picture of where the FMIC should stand and I have circled in red the things I took out. (Bumper support, headlight, fog lights) I use some wood to help me line up the FMIC. You do the same to help you line up intercooler.
Step2. When you mount the Intercooler you will know where to cut the frame. Take a sharpie and trace what you need to cut. Or just copy my trace is the same thing. ***Warning*** I left a note on the picture of what to be careful of... please read it.
Step3. This is just a warning picture of what is behind the frame. That bulky plastic has a bunch of wires inside. I suggest putting something behind the frame (A piece of metal or thick cardboard) in case you cut too deep. You can use a dremel tool to cut or just drill close holes all around the sharpie line and then trim it and *I suggest* to do a touch up with gray paint to prevent rust. *Note* The coolant reservoir needs to be remove along with the mount bracket (Simple to take out)
Step4. In this picture the frame is cut and allows you to move the FMIC closer inside. Now you have a better idea where to mount the FMIC and where to drill the holes for the two bars tabs and the upper tab.
This is the grinder tool to use.
Step5. When you take out the fog lights, there were 2 screws on the top. This is what we are using to mount the bar tabs. Don't need to use both screw holes just one preferably the outer hole that is on the border of the frame. Then drill a hole on the FMIC tab matching the fog
light screw hole to fit a bolt in, several ways you can do this... Sharpie can help guide you or whatever you think can be useful to you. Then get a long bolt screw, washers and Nut at your local hardware. Washers for the bolt and the Nut goes between the tab and the frame so your power steering lines don't touch your FMIC.
Step6. Here is how it looks from the other side. Just redo step5
Step7. Just wanted to show you why that nut or washers helps. In the picture it gave it a good enough space in between the power steering lines and intercooler. Most just screw it in and the lines end up touching the FMIC causing heat to melt through your FMIC leading to a leak. Also zip ties would help keeping the lines close together and away from the FMIC.
Many have purchase the 2G SS/Autochrome FMIC kit w/ short route piping + 1g bov flange. So I wrote a step by step write-up. I can't complain about this intercooler, Measures at 28x10.5x3.5 same as a 2-216 identical to AGPTurbo FMIC Kits.
Been pressure tested at 50-60psi for 30min to an hour by some Dsmtuner members and I have it set at 25psi and I have dyno numbers to prove that is legit and works great. Check out the dyno pic at the end of this write-up.
Tools & Parts you need:
Ratchet with 10mm socket
5" Disk Grinder or dremel might work too (cut off tool)
2 nuts, 2 long 10mm bolts and washers
Black or Gray spray paint
10mm bolt (One that you might have laying around)
Some are missing 1 coupler and 2t-bolt clamps so get real silicone
couplers (Not home depot crap that will leak and rip)
Drill tool
Preface:
This is how the FMIC + Pipes looked when they arrive at my door. Welds look great and it was well wrapped.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Installation steps:
First, I'm assuming everyone knows how to remove their bumper correct? If not here is a link of How to remove 2gen bumper.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99973
Also, to make the installation easier. Remove the headlight which should only take a minute once the bumper is off. Here is a quick overview of how to remove stock oem headlight. 2 screws on back of the headlight, 1bolt on the top of the frame (visible) and 1 bolt on the bottom of the headlight which is hidding by the bumper (visible if the bumper is remove) Unscrew them all.
Finally lets start
Step1. Here is an overall picture of where the FMIC should stand and I have circled in red the things I took out. (Bumper support, headlight, fog lights) I use some wood to help me line up the FMIC. You do the same to help you line up intercooler.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step2. When you mount the Intercooler you will know where to cut the frame. Take a sharpie and trace what you need to cut. Or just copy my trace is the same thing. ***Warning*** I left a note on the picture of what to be careful of... please read it.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step3. This is just a warning picture of what is behind the frame. That bulky plastic has a bunch of wires inside. I suggest putting something behind the frame (A piece of metal or thick cardboard) in case you cut too deep. You can use a dremel tool to cut or just drill close holes all around the sharpie line and then trim it and *I suggest* to do a touch up with gray paint to prevent rust. *Note* The coolant reservoir needs to be remove along with the mount bracket (Simple to take out)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step4. In this picture the frame is cut and allows you to move the FMIC closer inside. Now you have a better idea where to mount the FMIC and where to drill the holes for the two bars tabs and the upper tab.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is the grinder tool to use.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step5. When you take out the fog lights, there were 2 screws on the top. This is what we are using to mount the bar tabs. Don't need to use both screw holes just one preferably the outer hole that is on the border of the frame. Then drill a hole on the FMIC tab matching the fog
light screw hole to fit a bolt in, several ways you can do this... Sharpie can help guide you or whatever you think can be useful to you. Then get a long bolt screw, washers and Nut at your local hardware. Washers for the bolt and the Nut goes between the tab and the frame so your power steering lines don't touch your FMIC.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step6. Here is how it looks from the other side. Just redo step5
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step7. Just wanted to show you why that nut or washers helps. In the picture it gave it a good enough space in between the power steering lines and intercooler. Most just screw it in and the lines end up touching the FMIC causing heat to melt through your FMIC leading to a leak. Also zip ties would help keeping the lines close together and away from the FMIC.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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