I know there's a few sets of instructions on how to make this, but here's mine... Best part is it's free. (except for a switch and wire if you dint have them)
(posting here because i haven't been returned to a registered member yet)
If you haven't already remove the vac lines and solenoids that you dont need ( i.e the ones that run from the thermostat body to the throttle body and the solenoids on the firewall)
If not, remove the vac lines from the thermostat body that run to the throttle body, cap the nipples off. Next remove the solenoids on the firewall, reroute the line going to the FPS to the fuel rail.. Next remove the lines going to the fuel evap (located under the battery box) now make shure you capped all open nipples off.
You should now have some solenoids and vac lines. Find the two sections of vac lines that have the t-fitting (doesn't actually look like a t-fitting in this case, but has the two lines running into one)
Now it's build time.
1. Use the vac that has a shorter line comming from the T and run short single line to the nipple on the elbow comming off your turbo compressor (may be on the turbo or on the elbow)
2. Run one of the two long lines into the old fuel pressure solenoid. Then the other to your MBC.
3. Connect the other vac line set with the t fitting to the waste gate. Make shure the single line runs to the waste gate and run the two lines to the remaing two nipples on your MBC and Solenoid.
You should now have the two lines running form the boost source into a t, then into the waste gate and solenoid. From the solenoind and MBC they should then run into another t, then into the wate gate.
Wireing Time!
4. Take the ground wire from the solenoid and properly ground that.
5. Take the positive wire and run that into your car, then run it to the ACC on a switch.
7. Find the red/black (or you can even use the blue wire) that runs to your radio and tap that wire, and run that to the positvie on your switch.
8. Find a ground and ground your switch (if it's the kind that light up...which I reccomend)
9. mount your switch anywhere decent.
Now with my setup, when you have the switch off you should have boost about 10psi. With the switch on your car will use your MBC setting. I'm currently running 10psi/18psi.
The way all of this works is when the solenoid is off the air flows through the solenoid and into the waste gate with little restriction, opening the gate around 10psi. When positive is applied to the solenoid it closes forcing the air into the MBC, then the car runs at your MBC setting.
This whole process should take you no longer than 15min. The flow direction on the solenoid hasn't seemed to make any difference so far, so correct me if I'm wrong. I've had the same results running it both ways.
If I've left anything out, sorry, I'm writing this at 4:10am.
Enjoy!
Edit- Here's some pictures and a video, the blue line goes to the waste gate.
Video:
Http://www.dsmpowered.com/Media/Profec.AVI
(posting here because i haven't been returned to a registered member yet)
If you haven't already remove the vac lines and solenoids that you dont need ( i.e the ones that run from the thermostat body to the throttle body and the solenoids on the firewall)
If not, remove the vac lines from the thermostat body that run to the throttle body, cap the nipples off. Next remove the solenoids on the firewall, reroute the line going to the FPS to the fuel rail.. Next remove the lines going to the fuel evap (located under the battery box) now make shure you capped all open nipples off.
You should now have some solenoids and vac lines. Find the two sections of vac lines that have the t-fitting (doesn't actually look like a t-fitting in this case, but has the two lines running into one)
Now it's build time.
1. Use the vac that has a shorter line comming from the T and run short single line to the nipple on the elbow comming off your turbo compressor (may be on the turbo or on the elbow)
2. Run one of the two long lines into the old fuel pressure solenoid. Then the other to your MBC.
3. Connect the other vac line set with the t fitting to the waste gate. Make shure the single line runs to the waste gate and run the two lines to the remaing two nipples on your MBC and Solenoid.
You should now have the two lines running form the boost source into a t, then into the waste gate and solenoid. From the solenoind and MBC they should then run into another t, then into the wate gate.
Wireing Time!
4. Take the ground wire from the solenoid and properly ground that.
5. Take the positive wire and run that into your car, then run it to the ACC on a switch.
7. Find the red/black (or you can even use the blue wire) that runs to your radio and tap that wire, and run that to the positvie on your switch.
8. Find a ground and ground your switch (if it's the kind that light up...which I reccomend)
9. mount your switch anywhere decent.
Now with my setup, when you have the switch off you should have boost about 10psi. With the switch on your car will use your MBC setting. I'm currently running 10psi/18psi.
The way all of this works is when the solenoid is off the air flows through the solenoid and into the waste gate with little restriction, opening the gate around 10psi. When positive is applied to the solenoid it closes forcing the air into the MBC, then the car runs at your MBC setting.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This whole process should take you no longer than 15min. The flow direction on the solenoid hasn't seemed to make any difference so far, so correct me if I'm wrong. I've had the same results running it both ways.
If I've left anything out, sorry, I'm writing this at 4:10am.
Enjoy!
Edit- Here's some pictures and a video, the blue line goes to the waste gate.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Video:
Http://www.dsmpowered.com/Media/Profec.AVI
