The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

innovative lc1 wideband help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1990talontsi

10+ Year Contributor
179
0
Jul 26, 2008
boise, Idaho
So i had a shop today install my wideband for me and now it just blinks 7.4 and keeps blinking
i really dont wanna tear everything apart to see what it is for problem diagnosis im just wondering what i need to do to fix it?
like has anyone ever had this problem
 
Have you tried the troubleshooting section? Have they installed the red LED? the LC-1 will throw a code like the 1gs when they have a CEL. It'll show on the red LED like a morse code. Read that and you'll figure out what you need to do.
 
I have this problem some times but it goes away after a little bit of driving. My red led is hooked up and is installed on my bezel. I dont recall any weird flashing when the guage is flashing 7.4 but ill try to pay more attention next time.
 
Well, I've always been competent enough to read instructions and install things. I installed my LC-1 wideband, including the switch, per the directions. I did my initial 20 seconds on with no gauge hooked up, but my LED didn't come on. I figured maybe it wasn't supposed to. Then I proceeded to hook up the wideband sensor and do the free air calibration. I did it but soon realized that my LED still wasn't lighting up. The gauge was constantly blinking 7.4 after it warmed up.

I've went over the wires 100x and can't figure out the POS LED isn't working. Now, when I turn the car on, everything heats up as it should, but the wideband starts counting up very slowly from 7.4 and it just increases .1 every so often. I checked the programming and it's all set the way it should be. Can anyone offer me advice?


P.S.
No, I don't have an electrical engineering degree. Now I really wish I had before I bought this ball of wires.:ohdamn:
 
Ive had nothing but problems with my lc-1, with the g3 gauge, It wasnt reading at all for the longest time, then it worked great, now it only reads a few seconds after I let off the throttle.
 
Are you guys positive you have it wired up correctly?

Innovate LC-1 Wbo2:
Brown - ECU Pin of choice
Red - Accessory power supply
Blue + white - Grounded using same crimp ring
Yellow - not used (or run to the gauge if it needs analog input - MUST BE REPROGRAMMED)
Black - not used (or used for calibration LED)


And if it doesn't work then, I might guess that the unit is dead. Call their tech support and talk with them. The guy should be able to help you out with some troubleshooting and if not, ask to send it in for testing and possible replacement.
 
Are you guys positive you have it wired up correctly?

Innovate LC-1 Wbo2:
Brown - ECU Pin of choice
Red - Accessory power supply
Blue + white - Grounded using same crimp ring
Yellow - not used (or run to the gauge if it needs analog input - MUST BE REPROGRAMMED)
Black - not used (or used for calibration LED)


And if it doesn't work then, I might guess that the unit is dead. Call their tech support and talk with them. The guy should be able to help you out with some troubleshooting and if not, ask to send it in for testing and possible replacement.

I actually got mine to work. I went back with a cool head this morning and figured it out. I needed individual grounds for the switch and one of my wires wasn't connecting to the calibration wire because of a bad tap. It's good now, though I do believe it needs a new fresh air calibration.... and wire tuck. Also, I would mention that if you do not use the black wire as snowboarder's list says, then make sure you need to have it hooked up on intial calibrations and every other time after that. This wideband states in the manual the different time frames it needs to recalibrated. It's a pain in the ass, but I'd personally think it's best to just hardwire it from the get-go because it will alert you anytime that there's a fault. Good luck to anyone else having issues. If you need some help, PM me and I'll help in more detail in PMs


Edit: This post was made on friends laptop and account. The previous post was listed by Mach4g63t. :) Good day!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top