The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Injector Install Help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

andymac40330

15+ Year Contributor
177
0
Sep 4, 2007
Harrodsburg, Kentucky
I am currently swapping out my stock 450's for some Greddy/Denso 660's. I got the 450's out fine and was about to put the 660's in when I noticed they would not slide all the way down into the head like the 450s were. Are they supposed to be like sticking out higher, do I need a little more elbow grease, or what? I just need to get this install done pronto and any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Are you using any kind of lubricant on the new o-rings so they slide in nicely? If not, Vaseline works well if you have that around. I can't say for sure on the 660 Densos if they stick up any higher, but just lube em up good and make sure they are bottomed out and you should be in there. ;)
 
well I lubed them very lightly with oil (I hope that is ok, I saw it in another thread), and pushed on them as hard as I could, with all my weight almost (215 lbs.) and they wouldn't go any further. However they are still fairly loose. I do have them sitting in there where they will hold themselves up pretty good without any wiggling, do you think that if I put the fuel rail back on top of them and tighten it down they will seal?
 
Boy, that doesn't sound right to me. The rail might need some spacers if you're going to make that work. It almost sounds like they are not the right ones for our cars. Where did you get them from? Are you sure they are the right ones? :confused: If they're not all the way down and the rail is not flush like it was before I wouldn't go tightening the bolts down. You might be able to make it work though with some spacers.:)
 
I got them from a member here, but I haven't tried to tighten down the rail yet, just getting them all lined up and stuff now, I lost one of the black spacers to the engine bay monster, so I gotta go look for that now. By chance that I can't find it, is there anywhere to get a replacement spacer?
 
Look into the injector holes on the head. If there's anything black/green/brown/colored, the old o-rings are still in there. You need some needle-nosed pliers to take them out.
 
I got them from a member here, but I haven't tried to tighten down the rail yet, just getting them all lined up and stuff now, I lost one of the black spacers to the engine bay monster, so I gotta go look for that now. By chance that I can't find it, is there anywhere to get a replacement spacer?

JNZ and STM both sell them...
 
Thanks for the prompt replies guys. It appears that the lower seals are still in there. I was at autozone and the guy there acted like they didn't exist when I asked for them. I saw somewhere that the lower seals are interchangeable between the stockers and the 660's, is this true? Do you have any other suggestions (preferably local as I am on a time limit here) as to where to get some lower seals (I have autozone, napa, o'reilley's, ect.)? I'm going to have to get into this again tomorrow (loosing daylight) and if I don't find the spacer I'll certainly give those places a call. Thanks again for your help and if you have any other suggestions please feel free to throw them in.
 
Haha told you so. ;)

If you're in a time pinch, you can run to Home Depot for now and get o-rings that fit the injector. The size is the same for all injectors for the 4g63 with minor variances that aren't too important. You will need 2 stacked on top of each other for each injector. Be sure to lubricate with some oil.

Eventually, you might want to switch to Viton Seals. Whereas normal o-rings eventually harden, become brittle, and cause boost leaks, Viton material promises to stay pliable and functional for life.
 
I have denso 660ccs on my car. The lower seals are interchangeable. I needed new seals, so I just bought the complete o-ring seal kit for each injector at napa for 6.01 a piece (each kit consisted of the o-ring, rubber spacer I think it is, and the lower injector seal) part number ATM-200400

During my install on the stock fuel rail, I also had to put the connection tabs onto the injectors before FULLY tightening down the rail because once it was tighten down there was no room for the tab to slip onto the injectors.
 
Ok guys, I'm sure you are tired of hearing from me about this, but I got the lower seals out of the head today. Apparently they have been in there since the 40's because they pretty much crumbled once I got them out of the head. I would like to go ahead and get the viton seals. Where would you recommend that I could get them local? Is it something more likely found in a hardware store or an auto parts store? I am really ready to pack this project up and get back on the road so local would be great. Anyway, thanks for all your help so far.
 
Yea, I'm glad it wasn't something more serious. I'm not the best mechanic (although owning a dsm more or less obligates you to learn or be rich LOL), so I'm glad it's withing my means of fixing it. I think it is harder to find some decent seals than it is to install them. I can't find them anywhere here.
 
Yea, I'm glad it wasn't something more serious. I'm not the best mechanic (although owning a dsm more or less obligates you to learn or be rich LOL), so I'm glad it's withing my means of fixing it. I think it is harder to find some decent seals than it is to install them. I can't find them anywhere here.

Go to Mitsubishi.

Lower insulator: MD087060 x 4 ($1.39 each)
Upper insulator: MD614805 x 4 ($3.65 each)
Injector O-ring: MD614813 x 4 ($2.60 each)

If you need the fuel rail plastic spacer here is the part number for that as well:

Fuel rail spacer: MD095402 x 3 ($3.12 each)
Fuel rail bolt: MF240066 x 3 ($0.40 each)

It is in your best interests to replace the three bolts that attach your fuel rail to your cylinder head. If you tighten them down too much or they are old and brittle, they will snap off and will require you to remove the entire cylinder head to tap and ream them out, or junk the cylinder head. Please spend the extra $1.20 and do it the right way. As well, you do NOT want to crank these puppies down -- they are supposed to only be torqued to 8 lb/ft. That is hand tight pretty much. Do not reef on them, otherwise you will twist the bolt and shear it in the head.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top