Important: Improvements on Saturn Alternator Swap

[My1GLaser]

Sounds like maybe a bad alternator???

My voltage is consistently higher now that the sense wire is hooked to the fuel pump wire. About .5v higher than before IIRC. Its 14.5 when cold and 13.8-14 when warm. About the same at full boost as when warm. It still drops too much for my liking when both fans are on and I use my headlights at night.

 

[richard33]

Well the alternator is definitely bad . I just want to know what caused it to fail in 3 days. Could the stock pulley being on there have anything to do with it. I was revving to 9k at the track. I will change the ground to the transmission. I will disconnect the F wire as well so I will only be using the S and the other one that hooks up to the black/yellow wire. L maybe. I've reading so much it all runs together. Im going to try the S wire first at the power distribution block but that is connected the battery so it's not switched. It seems the vacuum pump drops the voltage down a full volt though so I'll start there. The only thing is I'm not using it while making a pass.

 

[gprix1]

I got the one-wire version with the smaller pully option and get 14.4 volts at idle and it stays there solid no matter what. Apparently there is some "theoretical" advantage to using the sense wires but my logs show otherwise.

 

[richard33]

I got the one-wire version with the smaller pully option and get 14.4 volts at idle and it stays there solid no matter what. Apparently there is some "theoretical" advantage to using the sense wires but my logs show otherwise.

Ya I wish. I already have the normal 105amp one so Im going to have to make it work.

Does anyone else run the stock 2g pulley on the saturn alt? Any issues?

 

[gprix1]

Ya I wish. I already have the normal 105amp one so Im going to have to make it work.

Does anyone else run the stock 2g pulley on the saturn alt? Any issues?

There is a guy doing it with good results. Honestly, I think the small pulley option is a bit too small and likely overspins the alternator at high rpms. It looks like the stock pulley would be the best way to go being a little smaller than the stock Saturn pulley but bigger than the small pulley option from Motor City Reman. You do have to machine the hole on the Mitsu' pulley slightly larger in order for it to fit on the Saturn alternator. I also like the idea that the ribs on the Mitsu' pulley fit the belt properly. I plan to do this myself the next time my car is down for any length of time.

 

[HIGHPSI4]

I got the saturn alt. mounted on the back of the block but I could not use the spacer from the Jay's kit. It placed the alt. too far back behind the block and the belt would not line up straight. Using the spacer on the other side allow the alt. pulley to hit the frame so I had to use washers to split the space on the mounting bolt. Also, the 42" belt from Jay's is too long for some reason and it rubs the bottom of the drivers side motor mount. Any body got any idea about this?

 

[94allwheeldsm]

Hey guys just finished up my Saturn alternator swap. And it's awesome!

If someone could give me a little info on this situation....I bought a brand new 105 amp from advance auto. Install was easy wiring was alright. I ran 2 new power wires to the fuse block then another 8 to the battery. I also ran 8 gauge ground to the battery. I ran the S terminl with a 12 gauge wire to my radio illumination wire. With I am seeing 14.7 at 900 rpm idle and a 15.3 volt charge at around 1500 rpm. Is that really bad? I unhooked the S wire and get a steady 14.3-14.8 from idle to 2000 rpm. I also noticed it seems not to stutter, as bad with no S wire hooked up. I was running the gm maf-t without a chipped ECU so I could only get o about 2k before it started running like shit.

Glenn I was wondering if I could get your input on the 15.3 volt charge if thats ok thanks!

 

[Blurred Talon]

I'm getting ready to finally buy an Alternator. Which is the best bang for my buck? The 1 wire Saturn from Motor City?

 

[performance]

Just to double check... The Sense wire is going to the MPI fuse (preferred, because of the low voltage) on the distribution block at the battery terminal.

 

[black_gst]

Ya I wish. I already have the normal 105amp one so Im going to have to make it work.

Does anyone else run the stock 2g pulley on the saturn alt? Any issues?

There is a guy doing it with good results. Honestly, I think the small pulley option is a bit too small and likely overspins the alternator at high rpms. It looks like the stock pulley would be the best way to go being a little smaller than the stock Saturn pulley but bigger than the small pulley option from Motor City Reman. You do have to machine the hole on the Mitsu' pulley slightly larger in order for it to fit on the Saturn alternator. I also like the idea that the ribs on the Mitsu' pulley fit the belt properly. I plan to do this myself the next time my car is down for any length of time.

i have the stock 2G pulley on my saturn alt. had it on there for years with no problems, tried a smaller pulley and the saturn alt exploded went the next size up and it was too big , the stock pulley was perfect

 

[Mike02rt]

If others are having trouble finding the 3 Wire Pigtail, you can pick them up real cheap through RockAuto. This is for the GM CS Regulator Connector.

Type in 85854 in the part number search in order to get the Dorman 85854 pigtail. They're $2.87 each plus shipping

None of the stores around me had it in stock, and were having a very hard time finding something similar.

 

[My1GLaser]

This might have already been answered, but I can't find it and I'm tired of reading!

Isn't the Saturn alternator set up for counter-clockwise rotation? If so, then doesn't the fan pretty much end up being useless? Is there a different fan we can buy and install on the alternator?

Edit: I just realized there is one inside also. If I get a different one that is for clockwise rotation then won't they counteract each other and not move any air? Damn! I wanna get this figured out before I install it...

 

[ali_viento]

would you please let me know which ribs did you use on 6 ribs pulley ?! it seems the first 4 ribs near to the engine lined up ( remain 2 ribs outer of pulley ) but i heard some guys said the 4 middle ribs is line up ( remain 1 rib from each side of pulley ) .

 

[Dyesuperman]

would you please let me know which ribs did you use on 6 ribs pulley ?! it seems the first 4 ribs near to the engine lined up ( remain 2 ribs outer of pulley ) but i heard some guys said the 4 middle ribs is line up ( remain 1 rib from each side of pulley ) .

You use the middle ones, should have one rib on each side of the belt

 

[ali_viento]

You use the middle ones, should have one rib on each side of the belt

this car has a weird noise then you think it can from misaligned alternator belt ?! plus you think its worth to swap to OEM 4 rib pulley ?!

 

[dsmspoolin]

I'm doing the saturn alt upgrade with the jay racing relocation kit on a 1G. For everyone that has done this WITH the relocation kit, did you have to grind the center body of the alternator and or the lower relocation bracket that the alternator mounts to?

 

[miguelmcv]

Nop,,,, with the jay bracket you don't need to grind anything, just get the jay saturn bracket.

 

[dsmspoolin]

I got the Jay Racing saturn kit, picked up a new autolite alternator from O'riellys. With the lower Jay bracket mounted to the block and the alternator mounted to the bracket, it will not swing up far enough for the jay tensioner to attach due to the alternator center housing hitting the lower Jay bracket. I either need to grind the alternator or the lower Jay bracket, but that is just to get the tensioner to reach. At that point it doesn't seem that the tensioner could extend far enough to tighten the belt. This and the possible failing of the aluminum jay brackets failing, I'm wondering if the relocation is even worth it. My oem alternator never gave me issues 23 years later. I'm doing the upgrade to maximize my voltage but the relocation for just cosmetic reasons .

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

My upgraded alternator i got was a perfect bolt on and has a lifetime warranty from autozone. I'm so glad i did it.

 

[miguelmcv]

I got the Jay Racing saturn kit, picked up a new autolite alternator from O'riellys. With the lower Jay bracket mounted to the block and the alternator mounted to the bracket, it will not swing up far enough for the jay tensioner to attach due to the alternator center housing hitting the lower Jay bracket. I either need to grind the alternator or the lower Jay bracket, but that is just to get the tensioner to reach. At that point it doesn't seem that the tensioner could extend far enough to tighten the belt. This and the possible failing of the aluminum jay brackets failing, I'm wondering if the relocation is even worth it. My oem alternator never gave me issues 23 years later. I'm doing the upgrade to maximize my voltage but the relocation for just cosmetic reasons .

Use a shorter belt, You definitely don't want to grind the bracket at all, It is mint to be used for the saturn alternator.

Unless, you ordered the bracket for an OEM Mitsubishi, then it might be possible to hit,.

Just use a shorted belt and you should be OK.

My upgraded alternator i got was a perfect bolt on and has a lifetime warranty from autozone. I'm so glad i did it.

I have a lifetime warranty alternator from autopart store as well (stored in my garage)..

I replaced the alternator like 5 or 6 times in a month, I was glad it did have lifetime warranty, after the 5th, 6th time that it broke, I got a used Chevy OEM Alternator (140 amp) from a junkyard, It's being in my car for a little over a year without a single problem, and It gives 13.8-9 volts at 850 rpms with radiator fans, lights, high beams, fog lights and defrozer ON, If I add the intermittents, it goes up and down from 12.3-5 to 13.2-5 volts.

I can't believe this them thing holds all that on such low rpm.

 

[dsmspoolin]

I didn't get a chance to call jay racing today. I'm going to try tomorrow but I don't see why I would have to find a shorter belt and not use the one that comes with the kit.

 

[okm12346]

Hey guys Subaru alternators fit DSMs and are more available and easier to find in junkyards. Starting with 75Amps for 2.0L WRX, 90amp for foresters and 110Amp for STI.

Im about to order one and I'll post results later

 

[T2Small]

I just broke my second tensioner bolt with a Saturn alternator today at the track. I am convinced we need a bracket to lock the tension in place. In my 2G I am not sure what I can do due to limited space but I will have to try something.

 

[gprix1]

I just broke my second tensioner bolt with a Saturn alternator today at the track. I am convinced we need a bracket to lock the tension in place. In my 2G I am not sure what I can do due to limited space but I will have to try something.

I did a how-to that allows you to lock the tensioner just like OEM with the Saturn alternator. I've been using this setup for almost 2 years now with zero issues.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/452642-saturn-alternator-bracket-works-like-oem.html

 

[T2Small]

I did a how-to that allows you to lock the tensioner just like OEM with the Saturn alternator. I've been using this setup for almost 2 years now with zero issues.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...saturn-alternator-bracket-works-like-oem.html

Thanks. Last time I looked it seemed there was no room to do that, but I will definitely have another pass at it. This time I'll pull the power steering pump to give me some more room.