Ignition/ Injector problems

[spyderdrifter]

I've posted about this before, and never got replies, so I'll try again, and add more to it.First off, the main problem is either the coils, or the power transistor. I'll try to start my car, and it'll start up and run for a few seconds and then die. During those few seconds, it struggles and runs rough. Sometimes, it misfires during these seconds, sometimes it doesn't, but the outcome is still the same.. it dies. Last night, after a week of running just fine, it decided to do this all again. I tested the transistor a couple weeks ago with an analog meter, and as far as I can tell, it was probably bad, but I'm not sure. I found a transsitor in the salvage yard over the weekend and installed it last night to see if there was a change, but no luck. I haven't tested that one, but it came from a 1G and is showing it's age. I tested the original coils at that time as well, and they too seemed fine, within spec. I even went and swapped the coils with a known working set that I got from a friend. I tested those before installing and got nearly indentical readings. That set has been the set in the car since.

I've been researching this all for most of the afternoon today and decided to test my CAS since I have the 6 bolt swap. The CAS is firing the injectors like it should. However, I didn't read far enough in the article to see that I can check spark during that test, so I'll be doing that tonight after school. Normally I check spark right at the coils, so maybe this will add a new angle to my testing. I've also had the P0202 #2 injector malfunction code twice. My injectors all work just fine, and have even been tested with Noid lights, and had the connectors pulled while running, and everything with the injectors are good. I'll probably go ahead and pull the ECU out tonight too, since I haven't done that yet, and check for any iregularities.

If it makes a difference to any of this, I do have a weird idle. It'll idle around 4-500 rpm during start up and first 15-20 minuntes of driving. Then it'll be normal. After driving for maybe 40+ minutes, it'll idle around 1,500 rpms and sometimes climb to 2k. I figured I just need to toy with thte CAS and BISS to ge tit right, but who knows, it could be related.

I'll be ordering a new power transistor in the morning if nothing works out tonight. Up til now, I've been thinking that was the problem was the power transistor, but who knows.

 

[luv2rallye]

I'll try to start my car, and it'll start up and run for a few seconds and then die.

Are you sure you don't have a fuel problem? This is the classic symptom of a bad fuel pressure regulator or bad fuel pump.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Fuel regulator is new. Haven't checked the fuel pump since I here it prime upon turning on the ignition.

 

[Twinturbo120]

Fuel regulator is new. Haven't checked the fuel pump since I here it prime upon turning on the ignition.

A quick way to check if the fuel pump is working is to loosen the bolt on the fuel filter. Then crank. If a shit ton of fuel spits out, your fuel pump is fine. If it doesn't your fuel pump is bad. Make sure to clean up afterwards.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I'm assuming you're talking about the filter under the hood correct?

 

[spyderdrifter]

So how can I remove the fuel filter if I can't unbolt the damn thing. Its kinda kicking my ass right now.

A quick way to check if the fuel pump is working is to loosen the bolt on the fuel filter. Then crank. If a shit ton of fuel spits out, your fuel pump is fine. If it doesn't your fuel pump is bad. Make sure to clean up afterwards.

Would this work if I just unhooked the line from the fuel rail since I can't unhook the filter?

 

[spyderdrifter]

So I tested the pump and it pumps the fuel quite well even with the filter on, so I'm leaving all that alone for now. I also pulled my ECU out to see if there was anything bad inside, and it all looks good. Still out of ideas. Could this be a sympton of 6 bolt swap random misfire? I'm gonna email Magnus Motorsports in a few to see if they can offer any info.

 

[ChrisMgst]

Your exactly right, " Could this be a sympton of 6 bolt swap random misfire?" I have ECMLink so I can disable cylinder misfire in the DTC tab.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I don't have Link yet, and won't until after the Shootout, if my car ever runs again before then and stays running.

 

[DSM1G90]

A lot easier way (don't know about 2G's though) to check fuel pump is the little connector in the main wire harness close to the battery but before the ECU grounding connector.
This little connector is a direct line to the fuel pump.
You take a jumper wire to this connector, then the other end, touch to positive on the battery.
This turns on the fuel pump to check line pressure when you squeeze the fuel line from filter to rail, and also FPR on the other end when you squeeze the line heading back to the tank.

To actually do the pressure test, is to remove the FPR and place a pressure gauge in its place designed to read fuel pressure on the end of the rail .. and do the battery bump thing to do this test.

-DSM

 

[spyderdrifter]

I bought a fuel pressure tester today, just to find out afterward that I can't use it for my car. Oh well, I would have bought one sooner or later for others, so I don't care really. The dealership doesn't even know what adapters I asked them about for the pressure gauge setup, so I'll build my own. In the mean time, I rechecked spark and fuel. All injectors are firing, although cyl 2's pulse was different from the other 3. Now only have spark in cyl 1. When cyl 1's plug wire was off, the car started right up like ther was no problem. Was weird to me because I had ALL 4 injector plugs disconnected when this happened. Figured this might be because of residual fuel though, but could be wrong. Up to now, only cyl 2 & 3 had no spark. Both coils have been tested as good, same with the transistor. I pulled the ECU out yesterday and it looked good inside. No weird smells or blown caps. It actually looked pretty new. I'm lost at this point. Don't know what else to check, test, replace, or whatever. Next week I start the driveability course at school, and I've been cleared to bring my car in for full diagnostics and repairs. So my car will be towed there this weekend, if I can't fix it by then.

 

[luv2rallye]

Unfortunately our engines do not have a fuel rail test port so you must tap into the fuel line somewhere after the fuel filter and before the fpr. The manual shows a special adapter that you place inline where the hose meets the fuel rail. But most people get this kit:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/46054-Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Set/dp/B000CIKCG2[/ame]

 

[spyderdrifter]

Yeah, I found that out from my Chilton manual, and the dealership didn't know what parts I was asking for. Said they weren't in his database. I saw that kit on ExtremePSi too, so I'll be getting it.

Question on that kit though. Does it stay on during the car running, or is it only meant for the pressure test?

 

[spyderdrifter]

I was reading a post earlier from someone else on here with an ignition issue where he said the problem ended up being a worn negative battery cable running between the battery and firewall. He didn't have the exact issue I have, but similar. My cable in the same location is likewise worn, more like frayed though, so would this cause a serious lack of spark since the other parts I've checked are good? This cable has been in this condition on my past 2 turbo DSMs too, so I didn't think it could be that big a deal since they never had idle/spark problems like this one. I've been meaning to replace it, but never remeber when I'm at the parts store.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Wel what do you know... replaced the cable and started fin eon first try. Looks like problem solved... for now. Thanks guys for all the help.