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idle is jumpy when stopped or in park

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talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
868
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
My check engine light comes on and i pull the codes and it always says misfire? that last tune was like 4yrs ago.im do for emissions any day now and i wanna be sure i pass. the car did pass in 2007 but its been 2yrs past so im hoping it passes again.

these are my mods:
Forced Performance Green turbo with external dump
K&n fip kit/dejon intake
Tial waste gate
Ported manifold
Greddy oil catch can
Greddy type S BOV
Greddy XL fmic kit with greddy pipes
Greddy profec b boost controller
Greddy boost & Ext guages
HKS turbo timer
Jumptronix air/fuel meter
Hahn 3" Downpipe/Thermal Research 3" exhaust
walbro 255 fp
Greddy Denso 660 injectors
thermal 3" exhaust
PI - dragon torque converter 3500 stall
black spring shift kit
b&m tranny cooler
Apexi S-afc

no fuel pressure regulator
no wideband o2

New ngk bpr7es spark plugs and gapped them .026, new ngk me77 wires,new fuel filter and pcv from mitsubishi installed....
Boost leaks and compressions checked at ams no boost leaks compression was fine.
 
DO you have an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator? When you upgrade the fuel pump you MUST upgrade the FPR.

The stock Fuel Pressure Regulator Gets over run with fuel. It can't hold back all the pressure of the Walbro.


If the codes comes up Misfire then check and replace your Spark plugs first to eliminate that as a possible problem. Get some Copper core NGK BRP6ES or BRP7ES
 
1. Are these your mods or did you get the car like this?
2. Who tuned with the SAFC?
3. How many miles on the odometer?
4. Has the engine been rebuilt?
5. What spark plugs are in there right now?
6. Has a tune up been done?
7. What are your coldest start up temps?

Don't start replacing parts that don't need replacing. You would basically be throwing parts at the car to see which one sticks. Waste of money and time. Answering these will help us direct you on the right path.
 
i dont have a fuel pressure regulator...and as for spark plugs they were changed in feb but i will replace them and the wires and see what happens...also considering my mods what kind of oil should i use? the car has been running mobil 1 15w-50 yr round for like 6yrs but i just bought the car and it need a change as we speak my temps in chicago are 40s-50s

Well the FIRST thing you need to do when installing a larger fuel pump is Install an Adjustabl Fuel Pressure Reg. That is A basic RULE when changing the fuel pump. It is NOT considered throwing parts at the car. When you change the Fuel pump YOU MUST change the FPR.
So if you truely DON"T have an AFPR, then YOU NEED to get ONE ASAP........GO GET an AFPR.

Also a new set of plugs is like 5 bucks. And they add some piece of mind having NEW ones. At least check and GAP your old ones.

Also 660's are about the LIMIT for the SAFC to tune.
 
1. Are these your mods or did you get the car like this?
2. Who tuned with the SAFC?
3. How many miles on the odometer?
4. Has the engine been rebuilt?
5. What spark plugs are in there right now?
6. Has a tune up been done?
7. What are your coldest start up temps?

Don't start replacing parts that don't need replacing. You would basically be throwing parts at the car to see which one sticks. Waste of money and time. Answering these will help us direct you on the right path.

Its Automatic
bpr7es plugs
122k miles
original engine
15w-50 mobil 1 for the past 6yrs of the cars life and needs a oil change as we speak but i dunno if i should stick with such thick oil like that because i live in chicago and the weather now is 40s-50s
ams tuned the afc but a couple yrs ago.
i purchased the car 3 days ago and it came modified.
 
DO you have an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator? When you upgrade the fuel pump you MUST upgrade the FPR.

The stock Fuel Pressure Regulator Gets over run with fuel. It can't hold back all the pressure of the Walbro.


If the codes comes up Misfire then check and replace your Spark plugs first to eliminate that as a possible problem. Get some Copper core NGK BRP6ES or BRP7ES

no fpr i know i need one but the damn tuner hasnt been in the shop for the past couple days i also think i need a tune since it was done a couple yrs ago. the temps out here in chicago are 40s-50s and its spring so does it matter the weather condition for a tune?
 
Jeff99GS,
I would be careful the way you word your statements. I understand what you are saying about UPGRADING the fuel pump, an AFPR is a requirement. To say when you change the pump, you need to change the FPR. Evidently, it's been done without any side effects. At least immediate effect. I was asking him because I had a feeling this car was modified when he purchased it. So we don't know how long its been like this. That's the reason for the questions.
I find it very sad when people blindly throw parts at the car. It's like guessing. Yeah you know what is wrong with the car and you have an idea of what it could be but your taking a guess when you try something with hope of it fixing the problem. Again, a waste of time and money.
 
The moving up and down during idle usually in my case has been it needed a tuneup.

Take a look at the engine is it vibrating violently? Might be time for a new t-belt and balance belt.

Its not a 100% requirement to run an afpr with a walbro 255 fp, but its good to have one. Ive seen some people get away with out running an afpr and some people wash out their motor with fuel running pig rich. You can tell by looking at the exhaust is it very black and leaving black residue on the rear bumper.
 
Its Automatic
bpr7es plugs
122k miles
original engine
15w-50 mobil 1 for the past 6yrs of the cars life and needs a oil change as we speak but i dunno if i should stick with such thick oil like that because i live in chicago and the weather now is 40s-50s
ams tuned the afc but a couple yrs ago.
i purchased the car 3 days ago and it came modified.
he also told me he didnt replace the fuel filter and im not sure if the pcv was changed either....also the trans fluid is dark in color so i was gonna go to mitsubishi have them replace the fuel filter,pcv,and drop the trans fluid and replace the trans filter and gasket with new fluid but im worried about the car slipping gears?

If the car has 122k original miles and your temp is at those degrees, I would change to a thicker oil if possible. Don't know if you can get 20w50 in synthetic. If you can find an oil agent that thickens the existing oil that is compatible, meaning synthetic based. I would say your most important fixes would be retune with the SAFC but not until you could fix the idle issue. Can you only pull codes or does your scan tool have values you could monitor?
I do believe in the idea if you upgrade your fuel pump to a higher output pump, you will need to upgrade the FPR with an AFPR. Might as well change the fuel filter when you do that. Depending on how long this car has had the pump and the tune might have finally caused your FPR to fail. You would be able to tell if your values on fuel trim are noticeably high. As for your transmission fluid. Does it look dirty brown or red? If brown, save your money. You will be looking at a new transmission pretty soon whether you flush the trans or change the filter with a fluid fill up. Not many people know but just dropping the pan, changing the filter and fill up does not really do much. Money would be better spent on flushing the trans on a regular basis. Typically you would change the filter around 60-80k miles with a regular flush schedule. I would say if you did a flush, you would have to replace the trans sooner. At your mileage and the condition of the fluid, plus its probably the original filter, the flush would just end up dislodge something that would just cause a malfunction.
I would say with some data from your scan tool, if it can do it, would help and narrow down. This could be a sensor, a leak or timing issue. JMO
 
I don't have AIM. Personally I don't think either of those parts are going to fix your issue. I would pull the plugs and see what the condition is. Check to see if the wires are still providing a decent spark. I can see where the PCV valve can potentially cause an issue. If you think you need to replace it due to service, do it. Just don't hope for a fix. Don't think the fuel filter will change anything.
Just to let you know about oil. As the engine gets more miles, the clearances for bearings increase. This is inevitable. The stock clearances use 5w30 as a break in oil. As this clearance increases, the oil needs to be thicker to provide a decent cushion. Now its good that synthetic has been used, the benefits on synthetic are longer service changes, no breakdown properties of the oil (no sludge), better heat characteristics. Me personally, I would thicken it to the next synthetic. That too thick claim is bogus. I would question if they understand the numbers on the oil. Again, bump up to the next weight in synthetic.
 
Jeff99GS,
I would be careful the way you word your statements. I understand what you are saying about UPGRADING the fuel pump, an AFPR is a requirement. To say when you change the pump, you need to change the FPR. Evidently, it's been done without any side effects. At least immediate effect. I was asking him because I had a feeling this car was modified when he purchased it. So we don't know how long its been like this. That's the reason for the questions.
I find it very sad when people blindly throw parts at the car. It's like guessing. Yeah you know what is wrong with the car and you have an idea of what it could be but your taking a guess when you try something with hope of it fixing the problem. Again, a waste of time and money.

Dude DONT start an arguement with me....Im NOT talking to you...Im talking to the OP.

I dont get what you're saying....you're telling me YOU KNOW the AFPR is A PROBLEM, BUT you DONT think he should fix that problem right away?? Thats rediculous.. Its LIKE when you upgrade a Turbo you have to upgrade the fuel system.

The Reason his car is CHOPPY is cause the Stock FPR is getting overrun on idle. Oh well you guys can keep throwing out shots in th dark....My suggestion is to FIX the problems WE KNOW he currently has FIRST....IT IS a PROBLEM...HE NEEDS an afpr if he does not already have one?!?!

Below is a Picture and Caption out of the new 4G63 Book backing up my claims that his Idle issue could be cause from the overrunning of the stock FPR at LOW SPEEDS. AKA idling.

I dont need to watch what im saying THANK YOU. Im trying to help a DSMer. This doesn't even concern you :)
 

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Dude DONT start an arguement with me....Im NOT talking to you...Im talking to the OP.

I dont get what you're saying....you're telling me YOU KNOW the AFPR is A PROBLEM, BUT you DONT think he should fix that problem right away?? Thats rediculous.. Its LIKE when you upgrade a Turbo you have to upgrade the fuel system.

The Reason his car is CHOPPY is cause the Stock FPR is getting overrun on idle. Oh well you guys can keep throwing out shots in th dark....My suggestion is to FIX the problems WE KNOW he currently has FIRST....IT IS a PROBLEM...HE NEEDS an afpr if he does not already have one?!?!

Below is a Picture and Caption out of the new 4G63 Book backing up my claims that his Idle issue could be cause from the overrunning of the stock FPR at LOW SPEEDS. AKA idling.

I dont need to watch what im saying THANK YOU. Im trying to help a DSMer. This doesn't even concern you :)


glad to see someone tellin how it is so many people try to take shortcuts bigger turbo and not upgrading piping is another example:hellyeah:
 
The moving up and down during idle usually in my case has been it needed a tuneup.

Take a look at the engine is it vibrating violently? Might be time for a new t-belt and balance belt.

Its not a 100% requirement to run an afpr with a walbro 255 fp, but its good to have one. Ive seen some people get away with out running an afpr and some people wash out their motor with fuel running pig rich. You can tell by looking at the exhaust is it very black and leaving black residue on the rear bumper.

the inside of my exhaust muffler tip gets these black spots in it when i drive for a while what do u think that is? also my check engine light keeps commin out and its a misfire....
 
How did the plugs check out with their condition and gap?
So i replaced my spark plugs and gapped them at .026,replaced the wires with me77 ngk,replaced fuel filter and pcv. did it fix my misfire? nope still after i drive the car for a while check engine light comes on and i scan and get the same sht misfire so i dunno what 2 do?
 
So i replaced my spark plugs and gapped them at .026,replaced the wires with me77 ngk,replaced fuel filter and pcv. did it fix my misfire? nope still after i drive the car for a while check engine light comes on and i scan and get the same sht misfire so i dunno what 2 do?

If there is still a misfire...then check ## injectors. they might have some grime or dirt in the nozzle. This happend to my galant. Also if you have the knack for it...drain your gas tank and see if there is water mixed with your gas. this might sound crazy but...its fool proof. so called process of elimination bro.:ohdamn:
 
Does it actually misfire or the code just shows up?? Boost leak test maybe?
i dunno if it is misfiring all i know is when i drive the car for a long time the check engine light will come on and ill scan for codes and i get misfire so i dunno what it can be? i had a performance shop out here check for boost leaks i had only 1 but it was really bad and i had that fixed so now i have none.
 
If there is still a misfire...then check ## injectors. they might have some grime or dirt in the nozzle. This happend to my galant. Also if you have the knack for it...drain your gas tank and see if there is water mixed with your gas. this might sound crazy but...its fool proof. so called process of elimination bro.:ohdamn:

is it ok to use redline si-1 fuel system cleaner? i just dont want it to clog things up and make my problem even worse cause i heard them cleaners do that....maybe my injectors are dirty which i dunno how i been using premium 93 gas in the car at all time? i think my tune is off since its been like 4yrs since i had it last tuned?
 
also theres a rattling noise comming from the torque converter and my car keeps locking up when i go to stop it will lock and go lock and go?

You need to look a little further into this:hmm: Check to make sure the converter bolts are tight for starters.


Does the car have polyurethane mounts? Its gonna shake and vibrate bad at a light, my auto does for sure!
I've ran a 255lph pump on 2dsm's on stock regulator. Not saying its right, but the car should still idle good if tuned.
Do you have a logger to check your fuel trims?
 
You need to look a little further into this:hmm: Check to make sure the converter bolts are tight for starters.


Does the car have polyurethane mounts? Its gonna shake and vibrate bad at a light, my auto does for sure!
I've ran a 255lph pump on 2dsm's on stock regulator. Not saying its right, but the car should still idle good if tuned.
Do you have a logger to check your fuel trims?

im gonna buy some good motor mounts is it easy to install them?
 
The moving up and down during idle usually in my case has been it needed a tuneup.

Take a look at the engine is it vibrating violently? Might be time for a new t-belt and balance belt.

Its not a 100% requirement to run an afpr with a walbro 255 fp, but its good to have one. Ive seen some people get away with out running an afpr and some people wash out their motor with fuel running pig rich. You can tell by looking at the exhaust is it very black and leaving black residue on the rear bumper.

i notice if i drive the car for a longtime i see black stuff in my exhaust tip?
 
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