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2G IDLE Blocked at 3000rpm [HELP]

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Heryst78

Proven Member
119
11
Feb 9, 2017
Paris, Europe
Hi guys :)

I have a problem with my 2G GST DSM.

Before continue, I have Checked for vacuum leaks, nothing except a little leak at the BISS screw.
All my TB gasket are brand new.

My problem is this one :
When the engine is cold, and I start the car, the IDLE is at 1200rpm and drop to 900rpm.
I’m going to drive, and After few minutes (I pretend when the engine is fully warm), IDLE drops to 3000rpm, sometimes less, sometimes more.

It stays blocked, and when i drive, if I’m in 4th speed for example, the speed will automatically up to 3000 rpm too

Does someone had the same problem ?

Thanks a lot
 
Sorry I am having a little trouble understanding your issue, but I had something that resembles what you are stating when my throttle cable was sticking. Try checking the adjustment at the throttle body (the 2 bolts holding the cable on) and also try lifting up on the pedal and see if it goes down at all. Worth a shot since it is an easy thing to check.
 
Hello :)

Yes i will Check the TB cable but I already adjust it... maybe it is to hard I will check it
I will check my ISC too

My AFR is very bad to, I don’t know where begin !
 
Hello :)

Yes i will Check the TB cable but I already adjust it... maybe it is to hard I will check it
I will check my ISC too

My AFR is very bad to, I don’t know where begin !
Cable is likely. Stab the throttle and sidestep your foot off so it snaps shut. If it idles down the cable is very very suspect
 
Do a BLT and see if you have bigger boost or vacuum leaks would be a good place to start. :)
 
I have already make a BTL wan nothing happened except the Oring of the BISS
I suspect the TPS or the IAC to be bad
I will test them tomorow :)
 
And I don’t thing that there is a Leak somewhere, because the engine should always be at 3000rpm, but it’s not everytime, it’s always when the engine is warm and when I go for a ride, never when a start the car in my garage at cold
 
That's really high rpm. No vacuum leaks or throttle cable to tight?
 
Loosen the throttle cable mount just a bit and report back. :)
 
Yes its really high, imagine when I’m driving and I have to stop at a redlight... my engine up to 3000rpm alone...
maybe the cable, I will look at it, but I don’t understand why it can be a problem
 
Just bein helpful. Might be something you just over looked! :thumb:
 
Yes its really high, imagine when I’m driving and I have to stop at a redlight... my engine up to 3000rpm alone...
maybe the cable, I will look at it, but I don’t understand why it can be a problem
If cable sticks it's the same as if you'e pressing on the gas.
 
When the rpm sticks high, pull over and manually check the throttle body. Could also be that the throttle plate is sticking. Move it by hand on the opposite side of tps and see if that changes anything. When I replaced tb shaft seals, I didn’t install the plate correctly. It was slightly off.
 
Hey guys :)

Thanks for your answer

So !
Yesterday, I decided to block off IAC and FIAV
I delete them and I put a plate.
I did a test drive and no more problem, now it’s ok :)

Just, for the two water lines witch goes to the TB, how did you do for close them ?
Personally, I just put a line from one to the second, is it ok?

Thanks :)
 
hey guys :)

Someone can Check in his TB how many turn your biss screw needs to turn to ne fully closed ?
Miller sent me a new TB but the biss screw is fully closed and i need to adjust it properly without dsmlink

Thanks :)
 
Basically 1 1/2 - 2 turns out as just a starting point.
 
If you dont have ecmlink then its best guess really, it might be somewhere around 3/4 turn out or 1 3/4 depends how your cars acting, i would adjust it so your revs are decent when warmed up and leave it, ive done it this way and its been fine for years and i rebuilt my TB many many years ago
 
hey guys :)

Someone can Check in his TB how many turn your biss screw needs to turn to ne fully closed ?
Miller sent me a new TB but the biss screw is fully closed and i need to adjust it properly without dsmlink

Thanks :)
It can also depend on if your throttle stop has ever been moved or not if running a factory throttle body or aftermarket. I usually had mine around 2 and 1/2 turns to 3 turns out on all my throttle bodies. Your best bet is to get it a good idle when fully warmed up and leave it like previously mentioned since you can't log isc position. I would also make sure the oring on your biss screw is in good shape.
 
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