Idea to bring coolant temps down

[bNasty]

So heres my issue. As some of you know the talon is down with me at school. So ive been basically driving it on the daily. Ive been having some issues keeping the coolant temps down at idle. Coolant temps normally stay around 205-210 when just normal driving but when idling after a few minutes the temps will start to slowly creep up 225-230. But as soon as i start driving they go right back down rather quickly. I believe that part of this reason is the lack of flow to the radiator. I have an SSAC front mount which takes up basically the whole bumper. I have no heat shields on the tubular manifold or o2 housing or turbo. I upper radiator hose is stock (not wrapped or silicone hose). I have the punishment racing intercooler with the fan shroud. both fans are working correctly and are currently in a "pull" setup.
There is no smoke coming out of my exhaust. headgasket is new and torqued correctly. I can see that there is sufficient flow in the t-stat (coolant is flowing) so i dont think its the t-stat. I made sure to burp the system and it is properly bled.

so my ideas for a solution.

wrap the upper hose with exhaust wrap (other suggestions are welcome) or replace with silicone hoses

and/or add 2 pusher fans in front of the radiator (i have no a/c or condenser)

What do you guys think?

 

[dsmornothing]

I would try changing out your thermostat with a cooler one before you do anything. Really them driving temps are not too bad though.

 

[bNasty]

I would try changing out your thermostat with a cooler one before you do anything. Really them driving temps are not too bad though.

ill try the t-stat but i think its fine. ill probably just put the cooling fans in front

 

[BigBeans]

I think adding fans and stuff is making it unnecessarily complicated. If you have the $, throw a Fluidyne in it and call it a day.

 

[Xeiros]

If you haven't done it already, consider upgrading your radiator.


In my WRX, I was running about 210-220 normally, and by doing nothing other than replacing my stock radiator with an aluminum CXRacing radiator that is a little thicker, I now run about 30 degrees cooler.

 

[dsmornothing]

If you haven't done it already, consider upgrading your radiator.


In my WRX, I was running about 210-220 normally, and by doing nothing other than replacing my stock radiator with an aluminum CXRacing radiator that is a little thicker, I now run about 30 degrees cooler.

With my stock radiator and 1 fan I was sticking around 180 cruising with a 175 t-stat 90+ degrees out and it wouldnt break 200. Thermostat is like 10 bucks for a cooler one.

 

[bNasty]

I think adding fans and stuff is making it unnecessarily complicated. If you have the $, throw a Fluidyne in it and call it a day.

if i had the money i wish i could do that. But i already have an aftermarket one in the punishment racing one (aluminum).

 

[Indian]

Are you getting your temp readings from link, or are you using gauges? If your using a gauge and the sensor is not in the stock location,or your using your thermostat housing as the source it will read about 10* hotter when fully warmed up. I always just used link, but I had the gauges already and always noticed that.

 

[bNasty]

Are you getting your temp readings from link, or are you using gauges? If your using a gauge and the sensor is not in the stock location,or your using your thermostat housing as the source it will read about 10* hotter when fully warmed up. I always just used link, but I had the gauges already and always noticed that.

well im usuing both. My sensor is in the stock location in the t-stat. and i did notice that they read the gauge does read about 5-10 degrees hotter than link. but even with link it was still rising at idle (coolant temp cel came on)

 

[dsmornothing]

Ill say it one more time, put a cooler thermostat in it. Did you know that even if your thermostat is stuck OPEN you can still run hot? The reasoning behind this is it does not have enough time in the radiator to cool before its evacuated to the block again.

 

[UnderPrssureDSM]

I had something similar a few months ago.

Started with flushing the cooling system, making sure any air was out of the system.
Replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses.
Replaced the thermostat.
Replaced the radiator cap.
Still had problems.

Replaced the housing for the radiator cap. Since the car is 14 years old, the metal had corroded and the cap no longer provided a good seal, even with a new cap.
Still had problems.

Pulled the radiator out and had it pressure flushed. Lots of junk came out. Really, it was an amazing amount. Since I had the room with the radiator out, I also rewired the fans to run on full speed and heat wrapped the exhaust manifold and O2 sensor housing.

Problem solved.

 

[bNasty]

Ill say it one more time, put a cooler thermostat in it. Did you know that even if your thermostat is stuck OPEN you can still run hot? The reasoning behind this is it does not have enough time in the radiator to cool before its evacuated to the block again.

i will do that, this weekend when i get a chance

I had something similar a few months ago.

Started with flushing the cooling system, making sure any air was out of the system.
Replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses.
Replaced the thermostat.
Replaced the radiator cap.
Still had problems.

Replaced the housing for the radiator cap. Since the car is 14 years old, the metal had corroded and the cap no longer provided a good seal, even with a new cap.
Still had problems.

Pulled the radiator out and had it pressure flushed. Lots of junk came out. Really, it was an amazing amount. Since I had the room with the radiator out, I also rewired the fans to run on full speed and heat wrapped the exhaust manifold and O2 sensor housing.

Problem solved.

i dont really want to wrap my o2 housing and manifold since its annoying to get out but ill try wrapping the upper radiator hose and see what that does.

 

[housegsx]

Wow! That's hot. My car only has 1 stock fan. It is set to run all the time. I run 196 while driving and top out at 203 sitting in traffic. This is in 90 degree weather.

I too have the ssac fmic. But I don't have an AC condensor anymore.

-Do you have a 180 degree Tstat?
-Are you running stock fans?
-Don't put the fan on the front, they will be less effective.
-What ratio of water to coolant, and any Water Wetter or anything?
-Run some damn heatshields. haha

 

[4G63_Attack]

I'm running all new radiator hose, bypass, heater hose, 1 Spal fan, greddy radiator cap, 50/50 coolant and mishimoto radiator. To monitor the water temp I have a prosport temp meter and it has never seen over 185 degrees

 

[UnderPrssureDSM]

i dont really want to wrap my o2 housing and manifold since its annoying to get out but ill try wrapping the upper radiator hose and see what that does.

That's why I did it while I had a shop blasting out my radiator. It's a lot easier when the rad and fans are out of the way. It's still time consuming, but easier. Good luck.

 

[bNasty]

Wow! That's hot. My car only has 1 stock fan. It is set to run all the time. I run 196 while driving and top out at 203 sitting in traffic. This is in 90 degree weather.

I too have the ssac fmic. But I don't have an AC condensor anymore.

-Do you have a 180 degree Tstat?
-Are you running stock fans?
-Don't put the fan on the front, they will be less effective.
-What ratio of water to coolant, and any Water Wetter or anything?
-Run some damn heatshields. haha

I just have a stock t-stat. I have 2 aftermarket fans and a shroud (whatever came with the punishment racing kit). Right now its all water, i recently fixed a leak and coolant is expensive. I used distilled water from walmart. I asking if putting additional fans to the ones i have in front would help. I read a similar thread and the op said it helped out a lot, but i never heard of anyone else trying it

 

[UnderPrssureDSM]

I just have a stock t-stat. I have 2 aftermarket fans and a shroud (whatever came with the punishment racing kit). Right now its all water, i recently fixed a leak and coolant is expensive. I used distilled water from walmart. I asking if putting additional fans to the ones i have in front would help. I read a similar thread and the op said it helped out a lot, but i never heard of anyone else trying it

I used to run just water but switched back to coolant when they showed me the crud that came out of the rad. I'm as cheap as any DSM'r, but the anti-corrosion characteristics of coolant will greatly decrease the clogging in the future. I want to get another 111k miles out of the car.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Heat wrapping the mani, turbine, and O2 will most likely fix the rapid heatup at stops.

 

[bNasty]

Heat wrapping the mani, turbine, and O2 will most likely fix the rapid heatup at stops.

maybe ill try that later. but it sucks to take all of it off to wrap, so it will have to wait until i get home from school.

 

[gixxerdrew]

I just have a stock t-stat. I have 2 aftermarket fans and a shroud (whatever came with the punishment racing kit). Right now its all water, i recently fixed a leak and coolant is expensive. I used distilled water from walmart. I asking if putting additional fans to the ones i have in front would help. I read a similar thread and the op said it helped out a lot, but i never heard of anyone else trying it

Sounds like something is wrong with the cooling system to me. That should be enough fan. How old is the stock t-stat?

Coolant system pressure test results?

no change of blown head gasket? Did you verify the fans are kicking on and the air blowing out through them is coming out hot?

 

[bNasty]

Sounds like something is wrong with the cooling system to me. That should be enough fan. How old is the stock t-stat?

Coolant system pressure test results?

no change of blown head gasket? Did you verify the fans are kicking on and the air blowing out through them is coming out hot?

im going to try and replace the t-stat, it looked good when i pulled it out but it was sitting with this car for 6 years in the front of a single wide before i bought it.

Ive never pressure tested the system since i do not have a pressure tester.

I locked the fans on at all times via dsmlink

I mean there could be a chance. but theres no oil in the coolant/mostly water. and no coolant in the oil. It just puzzles me because immediately when i start driving after idling the temps will go from 220+ straight back down to 200-205 almost instantly. The only time the temps rise are if im sitting idling for more than 5 minutes usually when i time my car before i shut it off.

this is what the setup looks like

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[dsmornothing]

Any possible chance you reverse wired the fans??

 

[housegsx]

If you are only running water and you've hit 225 you may have boiled it. Depends on pressure in the system. But I think you should try running 25% coolant and make sure there is no air in the system. See what happens.

 

[BrokenTsi]

What are your fans rated at? I run one big Spal fan on the front of the radiator pushing air on one side of my radiator. It can be 100 degrees out and it stays cool. If everything else is in check, the only thing that keeps the temp down at idle are the fans. I dont know what kind of fans comes from punishment, but if they are 2 fans from autozone or something similar, it won't be enough to keep it cool.

 

[squeak104]

On my other car I had mishimoto radiator, ssac fmic fp exhaust manifold, tubular o2 housing, only one 12 inch fan, no a/c condensor, and a lower temperature thermostat. My temps were at about 180 cruising and on a hot day it got up to 220 sitting at a spotlight. I had no heat wrap or shields on my exhaust parts but I did have some ducting behind the intercooler. These temps were measured with a Stewart Warner electric temp gauge. If I looked at a logger it would always read at least 10 degrees warmer from the ects.