1G How I lowered my coolant temps 6 degrees!!!

[Budget90GST]

I see those "koyo" black radiators looks like stock totally. I always wondered, what these are for (circled red)

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I was thinking of removing these on mine (since they're threaded in there) and putt plugs in them, since the tips taht stick out make the radiator harder to put in cause of the intercooler piping. do these actually serve a purpose?

I believe they are for the auto tanny cooler line...

 

[tsunari]

I believe they are for the auto tanny cooler line...

Yup, I've seen other autos with that setup . . . it's for the tranny cooler.

 

[daren_p]

okay more details...

driving around last night i never seen anything over 189 in light traffic and nothing lower then 182 while driving. keep cool boys

Think a Koyo will be an upgrade in the near future for me, not sure if you already mentioned it somewhere but what temp thermostat are you running?

To any 2g guys with the Koyo setup, does the stock overflow container still fit in it stock location?

 

[dnhieu]

okay when im sitting in back to back traffic between 12-2pm (hottest part of the day) i will see 213 at the most and then it will fight between 209 and 213. when its nite time i will see 206-209 at idle not moving what so ever.

driving when its between 12-2pm i will see anywhere between 189-196. at nite i will see 182 all day long...

this was all done without any aftermarket fluids like water wetter or wetter water. i always forget what they call that shit. im gonna put some in today whenever the talon cools down and see how much more it will drop. right now im just running 100% water

also if you buy it on ebay REMEMBER TO BID LESS THEN 250 LIKE I DID. i think you can get it a little bit cheaper then i did!

 

[PieEyedPiper]

okay when im sitting in back to back traffic between 12-2pm (hottest part of the day) i will see 213 at the most and then it will fight between 209 and 213. when its nite time i will see 206-209 at idle not moving what so ever.

driving when its between 12-2pm i will see anywhere between 189-196. at nite i will see 182 all day long...

this was all done without any aftermarket fluids like water wetter or wetter water. i always forget what they call that shit. im gonna put some in today whenever the talon cools down and see how much more it will drop. right now im just running 100% water

also if you buy it on ebay REMEMBER TO BID LESS THEN 250 LIKE I DID. i think you can get it a little bit cheaper then i did!

Water Wetter will NOT lower coolant temps. This is a myth. If anything it will raise temps because it lowers the thermal capacity of water. Water Wetter prevents corrrosion and freezing and the like.
The difference is negligable, and worth the anti-corrosion benefits, but will not lower you coolant temps.

 

[dnhieu]

i put in some of the off brand shit today. ill log it and tell you for sure....

 

[Generation X]

Water Wetter will NOT lower coolant temps. This is a myth. If anything it will raise temps because it lowers the thermal capacity of water. Water Wetter prevents corrrosion and freezing and the like.
The difference is negligable, and worth the anti-corrosion benefits, but will not lower you coolant temps.

That maybe true somewhat, but it does double the wetting ability of water, and it improves heat transfer, as well as reducing cylinder head temperatures if mixed properly.

 

[dnhieu]

i just made a logg and it didnt seem to do anything, but this was the off brand stuff. im gonna try water wetter and make another log. at least its lubing my water pump

 

[Byrd]

Just to ask a general question - 1g's oper. temp is 190*. Wouldn't running under that hurt gas mileage, performance, warm up time etc? I know it's probably not enough to see but I was just curious because dniehu is trying to go under 189 while cruising.

I am starting to get jealous though. Beginning of thread - 230* Now - 190* End - ???

 

[dnhieu]

you jealous of me? im jealous your ass has a 60-1 and i got a 20g with blown turbo seals

anyways my buddy has a fully built 2.3 and his ass sees nothing more then 206 at idle and in the 170's while cruising. hes got a chip burnt to get his fuel trims to move at a lower temp...

also i just found out today that only ONE of my after market fans are working and have one more idea i still want to play with to lower them a tiny bit more. looks like im gonna beat my over heating problems. winter is gonna suck because im gonna be driving around with coolant temps looking like 160's which will not be good

 

[mavisky]

I will see tonight how this works out, just did it like an hour ago


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI2MTk2MzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI2MTk2NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI2MTk2NTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI2MTk2NjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg


JDM FTW!

I've got some news for you. Other than when you're sitting still, that mod will actually pull more air in than let air out. Ever heard of a cowl induction hood for a muscle car? Well you just built one for your dsm on the cheap. I went severe on my body mods for rad cooling. later I'll be building an air dam to seal off the fmic and radiator but mine still has to fit around the new support structure for my upcoming chin splitter.

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[ITSME4G63]

I've got some news for you. Other than when you're sitting still, that mod will actually pull more air in than let air out. Ever heard of a cowl induction hood for a muscle car? Well you just built one for your dsm on the cheap. I went severe on my body mods for rad cooling. later I'll be building an air dam to seal off the fmic and radiator but mine still has to fit around the new support structure for my upcoming chin splitter.

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Ya my friend and his pops was giving me shit about the cowl induction all day long. WHat you dont think this will really work?


I do not know what the best location for cooling fans is, but I do not think its righ ton my setup right now. I have a 12" pushing on the passengers side and a 10" pulling on the drivers side, both on the engine fan circuit. I was thinking that the 12" might be blockign some of the air entereing, but then again, when it turns on it may be pulling air in to push thru the radiator. I was thinking about making it a puller on the passengers side and the 10" a pusher on the drivers side, or just have the 12" by itself do the pulling and eliminate the 10" since I dont have a/c anyways. what do you all think?

 

[dnhieu]

isnt that a good thing that at idle its letting hot air out and when your cruising its forcing air in? i dont see the problem....

also i want to put a hood scoop above the turbo kinda like your hood has. do you run into any problems on rainy days with water hitting the manifold or messing with the slim line fans?

 

[mavisky]

No problems with rain.

Remember that once you clear about 45mph the fans do you no good at all. They only block flow at that point. In fact I've run my car on the way home and lost my fans but the car never once overheated so long as I was on the interstate doing 65mph the whole way.

As far as it being good or bad, without definitive proof its hard to say. It could be good and could be forcing more cool air into the engine bay while letting some out at speed. On the same token though since we don't have areodynamic proof of the flow it could be rushing cool air in and the hot air from the radiator manifold could be running into that cool air and that could be backing up airflow behind the radiator. If that's the case then the air could be getting backed up in the area between the radiator and turbo and staying even hotter than normal causing a drop in cooling ability. Like I said though since we don't have any proven tests it's hard to say.

The cowl induction hoods used on muscle cars always let the air rush in to the carburuetor which was sometimes even sealed off to gain maximum flow, but even when not sealed off, was no more than a foot away from the ledge and that amount of suction from the engine could've alleviated alot of the airflow issues that you may have to deal with.

With my setup the air has a way in and right above the turbo it has a way back out. The problem with your system is that even if you have air entering and aiding you in cooling you're still trapping the air in the engine compartment and it's only way out is underneath the car which slows down the airflow underneath the vehicle causing more drag.

Basically while it may not be wrong, you'll never catch me doing it on my car as the negatives seem to outweigh the positives. A setup like mine, Greg's, Tom's, or many others similar is almost a surefire aerodynamic win.

 

[dnhieu]

while you have done a killer job with lowering your temps on your talon i think the cowel hood thing the guy did looks like crap but can be very effective (no effence). the reason being is because how does the hot air get out of the engine bay with a stock hood? at least this way your letting extra cold air in. correct me if im wrong...

 

[mavisky]

while you have done a killer job with lowering your temps on your talon i think the cowel hood thing the guy did looks like crap but can be very effective (no effence). the reason being is because how does the hot air get out of the engine bay with a stock hood? at least this way your letting extra cold air in. correct me if im wrong...

Stock the air all exits out the bottom of the car, lets say we're getting 300 cubic feet per second of air in through the front end - through the radiator - and out the bottom of the car. Now we're bringing in 205 through the front, 100 from the rear and all 350 is exiting the bottom. That means less air through the radiator, more under the car, and all you've accomplished is cooling off your intake manifold and valve cover a bit.

Now like I said I have no proof that this is what's happening, but it is a possibility and not worth the risk of it happening to me. I try to base my modifications aerodynamically on higher forms of motorsports. Maybe its foolish, but I think that if anyone's done the aerodynamic or fluid modeling on this topic it was them. I've never seen one of them do it, so neither will I.

 

[ITSME4G63]

Hey it cost me nothing, so what can I say. How much one of those cf hoods cost?

 

[mavisky]

Hey it cost me nothing, so what can I say. How much one of those cf hoods cost?

-$500 as the insurance company paid me $1200 to fix the damage from my buddy backing over me. I actually made $500 on the deal in the end

 

[dnhieu]

your theory would make perfect sence to me but doesnt heat rise? if heat rises then how does the air escape out the bottom on the car? please dont take this as butting heads. also i wish someone would come bang my hood up so i can get a new one!

 

[boostedinaz]

your theory would make perfect sence to me but doesnt heat rise? if heat rises then how does the air escape out the bottom on the car? please dont take this as butting heads. also i wish someone would come bang my hood up so i can get a new one!

Yes, heat does rise but only at a stand still. When it id being forced through the engine bay it will take the path of least resistance like anyother fluid would. That would happen to be going under the car.

 

[alex99gst]

Yes, heat does rise but only at a stand still. When it id being forced through the engine bay it will take the path of least resistance like anyother fluid would. That would happen to be going under the car.

Right, like stated before all the air will get jammed in the engine bay and have to be pushed out under, which doesn't flow very efficiently. The hood vent is the new path of least resistance.

 

[dnhieu]

thanks guys that does man sence...

 

[MyBeatGSX]

Just a quick question about the hood raising thing...

If this doesn't work or actually hurts, then why does everyone say to remove the weather strip and let hot air out? You're getting the same effect, its just a greater effect with the hood raised.

Look at this and tell me what you think, because I think hood raising is far from cowl induction. And I've seen a topic on srt4forums.com (or some srt-4 site) about a few people recording up a 30* drop in underhood temps (at speed mind you) with the back of the hood raised.

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Our windsheilds are so shallow slopping, the high pressure zone in front isn't anything near what the old guys get on their muscle cars with almost vertical windshields. Cowl induction hoods are also different because they're flat on top. They let air flow right past and around them to slam into the windshield, then leave a large opening for it to get under the hood. A raised hood is sticking up into the wind obstructing airflow and creating its own high pressure zone, this makes a low pressure zone behind it which (even worst case) will negate the high pressure at the windsheild. Its just like putting a large raised vent across the entire back of the hood. I know air is coming out of a raised hood at speed because I can smell the blow by from the vented catch can (no PCV) through the fresh air vents even on the highway. That means its coming out front under the hood (a good way in too, my can is mounted very low down by the tranny) and then being forced into the vents at the base of the hood. Which I think shows that my very poorly drawn picture is actually fairly accurate.

Obviously I haven't been to a wind tunnel to prove this. But its a known fact (at least in other car communities) that raising your hood significantly lowers underhood temps in ALL areas under the hood.

 

[mavisky]

Don't forget that the srt4 has a hood scoop on the top of the hood too. Let me show you what could be happening with an accurate representation of a 2g and srt4 with raised hoods.

First the 2g hood. The hood isn't nearly as angled as it shows in the picture above, but neither is the windshield. I'd guess that the bottom level of flow tends to tumble in a counterclockwise motion where the hood and the windshield meet which would mean the air would be more receptive to sneaking into the engine bay than pulling air out of it.

With a srt4 the hood scoop drastically alters the way air flows both over the hood and through the engine bay. Since the scoop is so high up the air literally bounces over the valve cover, get's a lift from the hot turbo at the rear of the motor, and would probably want to exit the out the back of the hood pretty badly. Probably enough to overcome any sort of turbulence that was there. Also remember that since the scoop is so close to the middle of the hood that it could be altering the boundary layer between the scoop and the window which would also reduce the amount of turbulence right at the base of the windshield.

 

[mavisky]

Obviously I haven't been to a wind tunnel to test this exact situation, but as a rule of thumb I try to take notes from those who have such as racing teams. I've never seen one competitive road racing car use a setup like this in any class of motorsports. All of them vent their hood similar to the VIS hood I bought, or with setups similar to the Carbontrix vent, or simple louvers. But noone I've ever seen uses a raised hood at the base of the windshield.