1G How I lowered my coolant temps 6 degrees!!!

[dnhieu]

thanks man, and good job putting in all the little stuff for the newbes. the only matiance i gotta do is rebuild the drive shaft because im getting the thump ...

 

[ilikespeeding]

I thought Id throw in that the drag caused by the sign might account for higher fuel consumption and increased engine loads

 

[boostedinaz]

I thought Id throw in that the drag caused by the sign might account for higher fuel consumption and increased engine loads

Life is full of comprimises.

I will take the cooler temps and make a bit more power than worry about a bit of drag while running hot.

 

[dnhieu]

has anyone ever taken out there a/c condensor before and logged the drop in coolant temps afterwards? also i know its illegal to just break the lines to the enviroment but where is the best place to break the line at? are the fumes that come out harmful to my health?

thanks
david

 

[alex99gst]

I'm pretty sure that those little red caps on the a/c lines can get rid of the crap in the system if you unscrew them. Now, I would not go about doing this without having something to cover up your paint, not to mention your eyes/skin. If that doesnt work then you could slowly unscrew one of the bolts holding the lines together with the eye/skin/car protection.

 

[pnishr]

has anyone ever taken out there a/c condensor before and logged the drop in coolant temps afterwards? also i know its illegal to just break the lines to the enviroment but where is the best place to break the line at? are the fumes that come out harmful to my health?

thanks
david

If you go about trying to purge the system, you'll have to unscrew the caps and press on the fitting to release it but...

Yes, it's harmful to your health/paint/rubber/plastic. Not to mention, it'll piss-off any tree-hugger that sees you do it. IF I was going to do it, I'd attack the hard line above the dryer canister. I WOULD just very slowly (while pushing down on the bolt with my body) and very controlled, loosen a bolt from there, and let the pressure bleed out a bit. Make sure you have fresh air. and IMMEDIATELY hose off anything that the crap gets on. You'd be fine. OR you could just take it to be emptied the "legal" way, then still be careful when unbolting because there WILL still be a little bit of pressure in the system.

 

[dnhieu]

how harmful is it to the paint? if i let it leak out slow like you guys suggest how long will it take to fully leak out and is there enough air in a open place to not harm my paint? should i take the hood off?

thanks alot for the help guys
david

 

[RAVAGER576]

Looks like you guys are def on to something but aren't you concerned about bottoming out? That sheet metal may warp after a short period of time ... you should really reinforce it with something. If you dont know what I mean look at what happens to license plates after a few months of driving ... they warp to your bumper and thats even a smaller surface with little wind resistance. Just getting your juices flowing before it warps and becomes too weak to straighten and fix right. I suppose a very strong thickness of sheet metal might be the answer but then it only gets more painful to cut. Otherwise great mod! Might think of attempting on my 1g ...

 

[dnhieu]

Looks like you guys are def on to something but aren't you concerned about bottoming out? That sheet metal may warp after a short period of time ... you should really reinforce it with something. If you dont know what I mean look at what happens to license plates after a few months of driving ... they warp to your bumper and thats even a smaller surface with little wind resistance. Just getting your juices flowing before it warps and becomes too weak to straighten and fix right. I suppose a very strong thickness of sheet metal might be the answer but then it only gets more painful to cut. Otherwise great mod! Might think of attempting on my 1g ...

i dont think my cut up street sign is going to warp man hahahaha. the ducting hangs down less them my exhaust but i have scraped it twice on some pretty steep bumps. so far its held up great. its supported by the frame from behind and the sheet metal only has about 1-3 inches where its not supported. i would recomend doing this to any 1g that has been lowered...

 

[boostedinaz]

I highly doubt mine will warp at all but only time will tell. As far as scraping I only hit one big bump and it slightly dinged it but nothing a small block of wood and hammer can't fix in a second or two. Other then that I have had no problems and my car is lowered.

 

[vintagemuscle]

if you are going to relieve the refrigerant from the a/c system be very careful to not get it in your eyes and try to let it out very slowly. shhh: it's a 10k fine).
if your trying to squeeze the last bit of cooling efficiency out of your radiator you can remove all of the paint off of it. a lot of the muscle car guys used to do this to help keep coolant temps down.

 

[dnhieu]

that is a very good idea but i dont think its worth the time. maybe if it lowered my coolant temps 5 degrees but its isnt worth 1-2. thanks for the heads up about the fine man!

 

[JrCRXHF]

I did a spall fan on the back side of the intercooler and it blows back onto the radiator and that seems to be all the car needs it will run around 200f in the summer.

I still have the stock radiator.

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[dnhieu]

found some cool pics of a 1ga with the hood scoop

enjoy...

 

[Byrd]

I think it's sexy. not so much feelin the hood pins or pop up light gills but the vent looks nice none the less

Anyone have a how-to?

 

[dnhieu]

i might make a how-to. i always say that tho and forget to take pictures to make one. looks simple tho. mark up where you want the scoop. cut a hole in the hood. drill hole for the rivits, rivit the bi*** in and your done!

 

[Thomas91169]

nice fabrication. i was going to do the same with my GST, but i revamped the whole system(coolant flush, water wetter, new cap, new tstat) and that helped bring things back down from 215 at idle to 190, read by dsmlink.

 

[Nelsons91AWD]

Hey guys, this is a good thread and it has been useful to me.

My temps with my 3.5" fmic were 212* which is TOO hot, these are the things i did all at once to get the temps down.

1. Went to advance auto and bought a 180* thermostat and gasket ($4.00)
2. 30% anitfreeze 70% distilled water + 1 bottle of watter wetter. ($8.00 for watter wetter from advance, 60cents for distilled water from walmart)
3. Slimline fan were the AC used to be. (about $30 from e-bay)
4. Aluminum sheetmetal air duct, just like the one you boys made. (had extra around)

My temps are now at 182* temps around here are about 85*F



i will get some pics soon

 

[JessGST]

I had a lot of problems with my car starting to overheat now once it started getting hot out. I have a Fluidyne radiator, no a/c, and one slimline fan. I ended up putting my stock fan back in and wiring it so it only comes on at high speed, moving the slimline to where the a/c fan used to be, adding water wetter and wrapping my dump tube with exhaust wrap. It's been pretty hot out and I haven't had any problems, but if I do I'm definitly going to have to try out some of you guys ideas.

 

[boostedinaz]

Time for an update.

I went to San Diego in the DSM last weekend and my air dam didn't make out alive.

With all the different inclines and just generaly shitty roads it took a pretty good beating. Here in AZ all our roads and just flat so no need to worry about that but I am going to try a different design anyway. We will see how that works as far as ground clearnace is concerened.

 

[Byrd]

How much do you think a koyo radiater would drop the coolant temps? I'm trying to see under 200 degrees, i'm at 206 right now. I still have the radiater and holes to punch through the 180 degree thermostat.

 

[dnhieu]

you are sitting right where i currently am. during the day if im not sitting in traffic i will see 206-203 and at night i will see 196-199. drilling a hole in the thermostat is just going to take it a tiny bit longer to warm up.

my next mod is either going to be the air duct or a fluidine radiator.

 

[Morphius]

Anyone thought of doing an old-school V8 trick........ tap into any additional ports (freeze plugs or such) on the block or head and feed that coolant to the radiator early. A lot of v8 guys will run lines from the ports on the heads to the radiator to dump the heated coolant early. I did this back in high school on an 80 cutluss I installed a 454 into (stock was a 260 v8). On a 90+ degree day, the big block would run 220-230. By tapping the additional ports on the heads and dumping it in the radiator early, it dropped the temp 20+ degrees. You'll have to excuse the crudeness of this, but it was done with parts laying around the shop. (which included the motor!!)

Pic below to illustrate. Granted, the 4G63 isn't built the same, but the idea might be feasible. I don't have a head out at the house here to look at. Anyone? Any additional freeze plugs or coolant ports that could be tapped?

 

[Morphius]

Time for an update.

I went to San Diego in the DSM last weekend and my air dam didn't make out alive.

With all the different inclines and just generaly shitty roads it took a pretty good beating. Here in AZ all our roads and just flat so no need to worry about that but I am going to try a different design anyway. We will see how that works as far as ground clearnace is concerened.

I like your design, but could see issues with damage as you and other have found with their similiar design.

Have you tried just sealing between the radiator and the bottom of the bumper cover. (ie mimic what the factory shroud did ... the gimpy black plastic piece that was rippled) This would ensure that all the air captured by the bumper cover would be channeled through the radiator/intercooler.

Most people don't realize the importance of that interface. The Dodge boys gained some needed efficiency and temperature drops on their turbo diesels (610 ftlb package 04.5 MY) by installing baffles that sealed between the facias/radiator/fan which eliminated 'leakage' points for the air flow being drawn into the engine compartment. This only allowed air to be drawn through the intercooler/radiator.

 

[boostedinaz]

I like your design, but could see issues with damage as you and other have found with their similiar design.

I may just do another one as it was fine the entire time until I went to CA.

Have you tried just sealing between the radiator and the bottom of the bumper cover. (ie mimic what the factory shroud did ... the gimpy black plastic piece that was rippled) This would ensure that all the air captured by the bumper cover would be channeled through the radiator/intercooler.
Most people don't realize the importance of that interface. The Dodge boys gained some needed efficiency and temperature drops on their turbo diesels (610 ftlb package 04.5 MY) by installing baffles that sealed between the facias/radiator/fan which eliminated 'leakage' points for the air flow being drawn into the engine compartment. This only allowed air to be drawn through the intercooler/radiator.

I would do that but my FMIC is in the way. The reason the one I made was nice is that it pics up the air that doesn't go through the FMIC, so it is cooler already and has a direct path. I may try that though just to see if I really need that little scoop on the bottom.