1G How I lowered my coolant temps 6 degrees!!!

[ITSME4G63]

I noticed it was on a 1gb dsm but do you think they make it for the flip-up light 1ga's? I'd be interested in buying one. I also like the evo carbon fiber hoods but they look like they are only for the 1gb's also (

http://www.sromagazine.com/store/bodykits/89-94-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Carbon_Fiber_Hood-238.html

jesus christ 640$! Ill take the insert, thank you.

 

[dnhieu]

I noticed it was on a 1gb dsm but do you think they make it for the flip-up light 1ga's? I'd be interested in buying one. I also like the evo carbon fiber hoods but they look like they are only for the 1gb's also (

http://www.sromagazine.com/store/bodykits/89-94-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Carbon_Fiber_Hood-238.html

Some one on here has that hood. but in my opinion it doesnt look good on 1ga's...

 

[WatchItExplode]

It's basically a universal style duct...it will fit 1ga just the same as 1gb. Same goes for 2g. Yes their hoods are expensive, but let me tell you carbon trix is QUALITY. Just wait until you see their products in person. As far as installation goes, you basically cut an appropriately sized hole in your hood, then drill holes through both the duct and your hood. Grab a rivet gun and put rivets through the holes. It's simple you just need the right tools.

to quote Rob from RRE/Carbon Trix:
"I have 2 GSXs and I would not run without a vent. Look at the 18 x 10 vent. That is what you want to start with plus a 13 X 10. I use both. See the site to show where they are mounted. Vents are a must. We mount them to the steel hood too. ROB"

 

[dnhieu]

It's basically a universal style duct...it will fit 1ga just the same as 1gb. Same goes for 2g. Yes their hoods are expensive, but let me tell you carbon trix is QUALITY. Just wait until you see their products in person. As far as installation goes, you basically cut an appropriately sized hole in your hood, then drill holes through both the duct and your hood. Grab a rivet gun and put rivets through the holes. It's simple you just need the right tools.

to quote Rob from RRE/Carbon Trix:
"I have 2 GSXs and I would not run without a vent. Look at the 18 x 10 vent. That is what you want to start with plus a 13 X 10. I use both. See the site to show where they are mounted. Vents are a must. We mount them to the steel hood too. ROB"

very good info man. im probably going to be doing this as soon as i get an extra 100 bucks to spend. i will probably only run 1 right above the hotest part of the engine bay, the turbo! ill have to find my stock heat shields and put them back on so i dont have to worry about cracking the exhaust manifold but that will obviously be the easy part.

thanks for finding this hood vent.
david

 

[my98GST]

What is the top ducting that you guys are talking about? I'm in need of more air to my radiator for sure!

 

[dnhieu]

i dont remember anyone talking about a top ducting unless your talking about the hood scoops someone listed...

 

[boostedinaz]

I was having issues in the Arizona heat when running my A/C with my new frountmount. I knew I had to do somethign about so I went with a few things I saw here. I did do a bit more and made some side baffles to keep air goinf into the radiator and not around it. They are a bit rough now but I wanted to see how they worked before I made finished product. My temps went from pushing past the the middle of the gauge to staying on the far left side. That is with the A/C on at 75 in the middle of the day with the outside temp about 105 or so.

Here are a few pics.

 

[Caithness]

I put a simple flat panel of sheetmetal in where the stock plastic lower ducting went. It stretches the length of my front mount/radiator and fills the gap between the ducts in the front bumper and the radiator support on the bottom. I didn't have any cooling issues before, in fact the opposite, but it seems like the car takes even longer to warm up now so I guess it's an improvement. I'll take a pic in a day or so.

 

[dnhieu]

I was having issues in the Arizona heat when running my A/C with my new frountmount. I knew I had to do somethign about so I went with a few things I saw here. I did do a bit more and made some side baffles to keep air goinf into the radiator and not around it. They are a bit rough now but I wanted to see how they worked before I made finished product. My temps went from pushing past the the middle of the gauge to staying on the far left side. That is with the A/C on at 75 in the middle of the day with the outside temp about 105 or so.

Here are a few pics.

im glad we were able to help you. how do you have thoes pannels on the side of the raidator mounted or they just wedged in there. that was the next thing i was going to do so that air had no choice but to go into the raidator.....

 

[boostedinaz]

im glad we were able to help you. how do you have thoes pannels on the side of the raidator mounted or they just wedged in there. that was the next thing i was going to do so that air had no choice but to go into the raidator.....

They are basically held by all the stuff around them. They won't slip down becasue of the shape at the bottom. They won't flop from side to side because the FMIC pipping is holding them against the core support and they are held down by the headlights.

 

[dnhieu]

cool, do you have more pics with maybe no intercooler installed or did you just slide them into place once everything was connected? also are you running a a/c condensor? did you log how much your coolant temps droped?

thanks
david

 

[boostedinaz]

cool, do you have more pics with maybe no intercooler installed or did you just slide them into place once everything was connected? also are you running a a/c condensor? did you log how much your coolant temps droped?

thanks
david

I did it with the intercooler on as I wanted it to fit behind that. I just took a piece of card board and made the general shape. I then just kept trimming and fitting until I got it the way I wanted. Once I did that I drew it on some sheet aluminum from Ace Hardware and cut it out with tin snips. From there I just kept trimming and fitting and until it was the way I wanted it.

The car still has A/C and that was my original problem. It would run just fine normaly, but with the A/C on it would start to get hot.

I didn't get a chance to log coolant temp before I did this, but one day my check engine light came on from coolant temp, a DSMlink feature, and that was set at 220. With that temp the gauge was standign straight up, hot for my car even though I know it is not very accurate. On my trip to and from Tucson the gauge would stay right at the beginning of the "ripples in the water" on the gauge and the CEL never came on.

I will make them a bit nicer looking and piant then so they blend in more when I get a bit more free time.

 

[dnhieu]

job well done man. how much did the sheet metal cost?

 

[boostedinaz]

job well done man. how much did the sheet metal cost?

The small piece for the actual air dam was 5.99 and the other aluminum I had left over from a big sheet that cost 24.99.

 

[dnhieu]

nice i will have a small project to do this weekend! ill post pics when im finished.

next is a vented hood....

 

[ITSME4G63]

Ha looks liek boostedinaz created something similar to mine, mine has got weatstripr ubber wrapping around it now and is painted black, looks much better, I dont know what my temp was before, but yesterday night was like 55-60 degrees, and whilst crusing home down the highway at 60mph in 5th gear, the logger was showing 80 degrees celcius(which should be around 175 faranheit) , oh yeah, I dont have a condensor, I got a 12" pusher on the passengers side and a 10" puller on the driver side, both wired to the same engien fan circuit.

 

[dnhieu]

i need to pull all my a/c stuff. how long does that ushally take? should i plan a whole day to take out all the a/c lines, a/c condensor, and the a/c condesnsor motor (if thats what you call it)????

 

[alex99gst]

i need to pull all my a/c stuff. how long does that ushally take? should i plan a whole day to take out all the a/c lines, a/c condensor, and the a/c condesnsor motor (if thats what you call it)????

As it would turn out for me, during my FMIC install I could not continue without removing or relocating some A/C stuff, so I decided to get rid of it. My system was not pressurized at all and because my bumper and stuff was removed, it only took me maybe 30 minutes to remove the condensor and all lines except for one behind the intake manifold. I still have not removed the a/c condensor motor thign and everything under the intake manifold.

 

[pnishr]

i need to pull all my a/c stuff. how long does that ushally take? should i plan a whole day to take out all the a/c lines, a/c condensor, and the a/c condesnsor motor (if thats what you call it)????

It took me maybe an hour and fifteen minutes to remove EVERYTHING under the hood. WITHOUT having to lift the engine, as some people recommend. You've just got to really JAM your arm down in there and find the bolts. It's the crap on the inside, under the dash- THAT's where the time is gonna be spent, and that's where 30-40% of the weight is. (heater core, condenser core - the inside one, blower, etc.) But, just to remove all the junk under the hood is pretty quick, and it weighs a bit.

 

[alex99gst]

It took me maybe an hour and fifteen minutes to remove EVERYTHING under the hood. WITHOUT having to lift the engine, as some people recommend. You've just got to really JAM your arm down in there and find the bolts. It's the crap on the inside, under the dash- THAT's where the time is gonna be spent, and that's where 30-40% of the weight is. (heater core, condenser core - the inside one, blower, etc.) But, just to remove all the junk under the hood is pretty quick, and it weighs a bit.

I recently had to pull the blower motor to pull out something that was scraping and causing a terrible noise, but I was wondering after I pulled it if you could keep the blower motor but get rid of all of the air conditioning crap. I want to keep it because in the winter I need a way to defrost the car and get rid of the crazy fog. When I put my hand up through the ducting it felt like the A/C ducting and blower motor ducting kinda ran together so removing the A/C stuff would make the blower not work properly.

 

[dnhieu]

It took me maybe an hour and fifteen minutes to remove EVERYTHING under the hood. WITHOUT having to lift the engine, as some people recommend. You've just got to really JAM your arm down in there and find the bolts. It's the crap on the inside, under the dash- THAT's where the time is gonna be spent, and that's where 30-40% of the weight is. (heater core, condenser core - the inside one, blower, etc.) But, just to remove all the junk under the hood is pretty quick, and it weighs a bit.

So the a/c condensor motor can be taken out from the top of the car? or do i have to remove the cv axle and hit it from the bottom. also my heater core is bad do i have to pull the dash to get to that? i know were a little off topic but i have been curious about this stuff for awhile...

 

[dnhieu]

I recently had to pull the blower motor to pull out something that was scraping and causing a terrible noise, but I was wondering after I pulled it if you could keep the blower motor but get rid of all of the air conditioning crap. I want to keep it because in the winter I need a way to defrost the car and get rid of the crazy fog. When I put my hand up through the ducting it felt like the A/C ducting and blower motor ducting kinda ran together so removing the A/C stuff would make the blower not work properly.

im pretty sure you can leave it in there for the winter time. the heat comes from the two radiator fluid lines that runs to the heater core not the a/c lines. even tho i do think the radiator fluid regulates the a/c lines that runs to them because i always have cold air running out of my vents. that might also be because the heater core is bad...

 

[alex99gst]

im pretty sure you can leave it in there for the winter time. the heat comes from the two radiator fluid lines that runs to the heater core not the a/c lines. even tho i do think the radiator fluid regulates the a/c lines that runs to them because i always have cold air running out of my vents. that might also be because the heater core is bad...

This is an interesting topic because mine always has hot air coming out and my a/c is halfway removed. If it is possible, I would like to take out the heater core and all that and still have the blower motor. I know that the heater core is right next to the blower motor. It is right behind the glove box. I was about to remove it the other day, but stopped halfway through because the clips are a pain to take off. From my experiences, I think it can be done with only removing the glove box and that little metal bar that holds it on. They make all this stuff look so easy in the Haynes manual

 

[dnhieu]

well if you want to stop that hot air BS just loop the water lines in the engine bay. the only reason why i did this was because the heater core was leaking water in my car and outside the car....

 

[pnishr]

So the a/c condensor motor can be taken out from the top of the car? or do i have to remove the cv axle and hit it from the bottom. also my heater core is bad do i have to pull the dash to get to that? i know were a little off topic but i have been curious about this stuff for awhile...

Well, I was changing the Radiator too, so my coolant was drained but... do this:

1. remove battery and tray
2. remove heater hose to heater core (both) (good time to flush/change coolant to summer mix)
3. unplug IAC (notice that says unplug, not unbolt)
4. Unhook the fuel line fromt the fuel filter (good time to replace the fuel filter)
5. unbolt Compressor
6 Pull compressor through to the passengers side. This will take a bit of rotating to avoid the hard-lines on the firewall. It'll pull right out of the hole you've created. And what a good time to do routine maintenance!
7. Put it all back together, and run heater hose in a loop to bypass the heater core.

The hardest part was finally convincing myself that it wasn't gonna come out without disconnecting the fuel line. I SWEAR I could have gotten it without it, but... it's way easier to just unhook the bastard, and then put it back on...

And yes, dash is gonna have to go to get to that heater core.

Good luck