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I NEED TO REACH 9's!!!HELP!!

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Just because what he posted was repeated by other people gives you no right to flame. From what I see, he is the only one here with a 9 second car that is giving advice from personal experience. Now, where are your useful posts? All I see from you is bashing on other people and it looks like you dont have the dsm that it takes to speak from experience.
Also, it doesnt appear that you have any awd experience either so you really dont know if just a set of Tein springs would be adequate for 9 second 1/4mile passes, do you?

That's funny I could have sworn I said suspension which as I see is really his missing link. Even look at twicks car he has a laundry list of suspension stuff that's part of the reason is car is a fast as it is. Not to mention if you took the time to look into what I put I wasn't flamming just respnding to the fact that my previous post was reffered to as a pile so if you want to jump on anyone for flaming I would jump on him. Last but not least my gs is my SECOND dsm my first being a 90 tsi AWD trust me springs are not enough suspension for a car of this caliber. I don't know if YOU have any real drag experience bump stiffness of the rear springs along with camber can make a world of diffrent in traction off the line productiong a nice squat that in turn nets you faster 60 ft's which then equates to faster et's.
 
The most effective way to make your powerplant get 9's is listed above. On a 2.0L with a 4088R or 4094R your 272 cams will be just fine. On a GT2494 or 4202R you might want to look at a set of Brian Crower 280 cams or equivilant.

Again, anything larger than a 4088R will require larger than 1150cc injectors. I am maxing out my 1000cc injectors at more than 90% duty cycle by 6000rpms, and over 115% by 8000rpms on 49psi on my 4088R. That is why I reccomended a set of 1600cc injectors -- this will easily do over 850whp and can do 1000whp. I would also reccomend using adjustable cam gears and tuning the car on a dyno to extract the best power for your powerband using whichever turbo you go with.

Next, Find a decent T4 tubular exhaust manifold. I am using a DN Performance ( http://dnperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_28&products_id=70 ) manifold with good luck for more than 2 seasons now. I would try to run better reinforcing bracketry if you go with a 40R or 42R as they will likely break off. My manifold has not cracked, but the reinforcement brackets are broken off. The key issue is the weight of the turbo that is hanging off of it. You will be able to fit a 40R or 42R on it with little modification. I am running a 12" SPAL slimline fan on the passenger side inside the engine bay for cooling, while using a stock radiator and am able to clear a 40R with no problems. To run this setup, you will need a TiAL 44mm Wastegate and will need to make a tubular dump pipe for the wastegate.

Use 2.5" intercooler piping if using a 40R, and use 3" intercooler piping with a 42R.


As for traction, your current suspension will get you into the 9's no problem -- it has been done before. You will need to drive the heck out of it, but you can do it! I would still reccomend upgrading to a coilover for having more adjustability. I would also reccomend getting a good alignment and make sure everything is straight as possible. K-Sport Kontrol Pro coilovers are a cheap and effective way to get alot of tuning for a low price. Otherwise, you can go with alot of other good options. Having a solid driveline and suspension is key when launching your car. Be sure to inspect all your suspension bushings and upgrade them. You should already have motor mounts and transmission mounts to get this far. Also, tires are pretty darn important, but I do not know what type of track preparation they do down there. Is it just an abandoned airport runway, or is it a real race-prepared track using a traction enhancing compound? If you can get better tires, then do it.

Finally, tuning is extremely important, along with putting the power to the ground (traction). Invest alot of time in getting the car dialed in, then get used to driving that amount of power on the street/track to get a good handle on where to be shifting to keep peak powerband and best traction.

Good luck!

+1 on everything he said suspension wise and I didn't even think about prothane/solid motor mounts and what not I just assumed you had that much but from the pictures of the car it looks like you have some nice tires already but I too looked into those KS soilovers when I have my tsi they go for like 850 shipped on ebay and are very adjustable and proven by twick effective when running 9's.
 
The most effective way to make your powerplant get 9's is listed above. On a 2.0L with a 4088R or 4094R your 272 cams will be just fine. On a GT2494 or 4202R you might want to look at a set of Brian Crower 280 cams or equivilant.

Again, anything larger than a 4088R will require larger than 1150cc injectors. I am maxing out my 1000cc injectors at more than 90% duty cycle by 6000rpms, and over 115% by 8000rpms on 49psi on my 4088R. That is why I reccomended a set of 1600cc injectors -- this will easily do over 850whp and can do 1000whp. I would also reccomend using adjustable cam gears and tuning the car on a dyno to extract the best power for your powerband using whichever turbo you go with.

Next, Find a decent T4 tubular exhaust manifold. I am using a DN Performance ( http://dnperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_28&products_id=70 ) manifold with good luck for more than 2 seasons now. I would try to run better reinforcing bracketry if you go with a 40R or 42R as they will likely break off. My manifold has not cracked, but the reinforcement brackets are broken off. The key issue is the weight of the turbo that is hanging off of it. You will be able to fit a 40R or 42R on it with little modification. I am running a 12" SPAL slimline fan on the passenger side inside the engine bay for cooling, while using a stock radiator and am able to clear a 40R with no problems. To run this setup, you will need a TiAL 44mm Wastegate and will need to make a tubular dump pipe for the wastegate.

Use 2.5" intercooler piping if using a 40R, and use 3" intercooler piping with a 42R.


As for traction, your current suspension will get you into the 9's no problem -- it has been done before. You will need to drive the heck out of it, but you can do it! I would still reccomend upgrading to a coilover for having more adjustability. I would also reccomend getting a good alignment and make sure everything is straight as possible. K-Sport Kontrol Pro coilovers are a cheap and effective way to get alot of tuning for a low price. Otherwise, you can go with alot of other good options. Having a solid driveline and suspension is key when launching your car. Be sure to inspect all your suspension bushings and upgrade them. You should already have motor mounts and transmission mounts to get this far. Also, tires are pretty darn important, but I do not know what type of track preparation they do down there. Is it just an abandoned airport runway, or is it a real race-prepared track using a traction enhancing compound? If you can get better tires, then do it.

Finally, tuning is extremely important, along with putting the power to the ground (traction). Invest alot of time in getting the car dialed in, then get used to driving that amount of power on the street/track to get a good handle on where to be shifting to keep peak powerband and best traction.

Good luck!


I cant express how much your comments have been a help to me bro, really, yea im def thinking of geting the gt4094r, the "strip" we race on is a slightly abandoned dusty cesna runway, but eh its that or nothing, the only problem right now with my car is the drivetrain ive already broken 1 of the rear 3 point cv joints, since my car is a 91, thats has goten me a little paranoid so i havent been launching the car like i should, using my launch control, will my stock drivetrain take the abuse? oh and i have a a1000 aeromotive fuel pump, and i have kumho circuit racing slicks heh
 
I cant express how much your comments have been a help to me bro, really, yea im def thinking of geting the gt4094r, the "strip" we race on is a slightly abandoned dusty cesna runway, but eh its that or nothing, the only problem right now with my car is the drivetrain ive already broken 1 of the rear 3 point cv joints, since my car is a 91, thats has goten me a little paranoid so i havent been launching the car like i should, using my launch control, will my stock drivetrain take the abuse? oh and i have a a1000 aeromotive fuel pump, and i have kumho circuit racing slicks heh

People have broken 3 bolts with 16g's so needless to say you have been slipping the clutch like a pro to make it more then a couple trips down the strip without snapping your 3 bolt. For about 400 bucs plus shipping you can pick up a 4 bolt rear on the classified or you can pull one off a 92-94 awd T/E/L and have piece of mind. Even though I think suspension is your big thing with what you have brought up I think your only problem is a good track that's prepped and a 4 bolt so you can launch your car like you stole it. Just curious what are your 60 ft times like and mph that can tell you a lot about where you need work.
 
eclipse98gs-t - What is the current race weight of the car?

That a1000 pump isn't the best candidate. After running for more than 20 minutes or so, it begins to heat the fuel. It's not a bad pump, but it doesn't like entended use without the optional speed controller. I would recommend twin in-line Walbro 255's ran in parallel.
 
People have broken 3 bolts with 16g's so needless to say you have been slipping the clutch like a pro to make it more then a couple trips down the strip without snapping your 3 bolt. For about 400 bucs plus shipping you can pick up a 4 bolt rear on the classified or you can pull one off a 92-94 awd T/E/L and have piece of mind. Even though I think suspension is your big thing with what you have brought up I think your only problem is a good track that's prepped and a 4 bolt so you can launch your car like you stole it. Just curious what are your 60 ft times like and mph that can tell you a lot about where you need work.

our system only reads reaction time et and tt. heh soo yea cant really tell ya that, and peruvian import laws doesnt let me bring used autoparts into the country so buying a used 4 bolt is close to impossible.
 
our system only reads reaction time et and tt. heh soo yea cant really tell ya that, and peruvian import laws doesnt let me bring used autoparts into the country so buying a used 4 bolt is close to impossible.

Man that's beat well you can always contact driveshaft or findanza and see if they make something to fit your app hp wise but I thinnk findanza'a are only rated to like 250whp an axle or something so I would just go right to driveshaft and get some stage 3's. Again that's a lot of money for piece of mind but that's your call. I still think the money in something like those Ksport coilovers would see you into the 9's.
 
what do you think about this turbo, it is not a ball-bearing, but 1k seems good price

Garrett GT Technology Turbo: No Limit Motorsport

any coment?


That turbo is only rated to 750hp. I wouldn't aim for a goal with aturbo whose max rating is that number I woudl get a turbo that is atleast 50hp over my goal because realistically you won't get 100% out of your turbo. That any not that you would run it that way I would never run a turbo that big with a internal wastegate like the one in the picture. If you want a non BB turbo that will get you wnat you wnat and not cost liek $2k look into the 3575 from FP. It took evil eagle into the 10.3 range if I believe with a full weight car.


edit: While I still think that the 3575 is good I just looked evil eagle made 692 but that was with 30+psi and a 50 shot so I don't knwo if it would be ideal for your setup but would be the smallest you could go.
 
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