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Can I reach my goals with $10k?

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Dirtboarder16

15+ Year Contributor
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Dec 20, 2003
California, Maryland
So here's the deal:

I can pick up a high mileage/rough 1G locally for $1k, and have a budget of $10k for what I hope can be a pretty gnarly build. I'd like input from those who are pushing over 500whp to help me decide if my goals are feasible given this budget. I should mention that I am pretty thrifty and built up a FWD(ugh) 3000GT about a year ago with a PT61 for about $8.5k including the car, which based on the AFR and IDC was making around 600 at the crank.

My goal with the dsm is ultimately 140mph traps and street (NOT DAILY) driveability. I am very happy with a 6-9k powerband so don't even bring it up. I just want to know from the people who are going this fast, how much you spent or could have spent. The preliminary highlights of the build are looking something like this:

SBR Stage II SB (Scrap the stocker)
Stock (Refreshed) Head w/ crower cams/dual springs
Shep Tranny, Welded center diff, 4-bolt rear
ACT2900
JMFab SMIM w/ Q45 TB
1600cc Injectors
MAFT Pro w/ DSMChip for timing etc, Logger
Dual Walbros, AFPR, Braided Feed/Return
Big FMIC w/ 3" pipes
DNP T4 Manifold
GT42 variant
Tial 44mm dumped
4" Custom Turbo-back
Water/Meth Injection

Is it doable? Advice?
 
My vote would go for a different option rather than the MAFT pro. I would suggest DSM Link and some other type of MAF. Possibly a 2g or Evo 8. Then, DSM Link will provide you with the logging as well as tuning aspect. I would also suggest a smaller turbo. Possibly a GT35 variant. Either from Garrett or ForcedPerformance's FP3575. Just remember to allot some extra time and money to instances that are unforeseeable. You will undoubtedly find maintenance-type items that need to (or should be) replaced.

If you want a higher powerband like you mentioned, stick with the 2.0L (as it appears you are going to). If you find the yearning to have this be a more streetable car, you may opt for a 2.3 or 2.4L. If you just want the aspect that you can drive it on the street if you really wanted to, but not actually doing it, stay with the 2.0L.
 
My vote would go for a different option rather than the MAFT pro. I would suggest DSM Link and some other type of MAF. Possibly a 2g or Evo 8. Then, DSM Link will provide you with the logging as well as tuning aspect. I would also suggest a smaller turbo. Possibly a GT35 variant. Either from Garrett or ForcedPerformance's FP3575. Just remember to allot some extra time and money to instances that are unforeseeable. You will undoubtedly find maintenance-type items that need to (or should be) replaced.

If you want a higher powerband like you mentioned, stick with the 2.0L (as it appears you are going to). If you find the yearning to have this be a more streetable car, you may opt for a 2.3 or 2.4L. If you just want the aspect that you can drive it on the street if you really wanted to, but not actually doing it, stay with the 2.0L.

First of all, thanks for the response. I had the MAFT Pro on my 3000GT running speed density (Awesome) and I am in love with the AFR tracking feature. As far as I am aware DSM Link does not have these features but it does look like an incredibly powerful all-in-one tool. Setting some money aside for maintenance, breakage, etc. is definetly a good and necessary idea. I was originally looking at the GT35 and FP3575 like you mention but the GT42 appears to be making significantly better numbers at the same psi (with the obvious trade-off in spool time) so I feel it would make reaching my goal just a little bit easier.
 
No.

The list you have compiled is already close to $13K without any tuning or the price of the car.

SBR Stage II SB (Scrap the stocker) $2400
Stock (Refreshed) Head w/ crower cams/dual springs $650
Shep Tranny, Welded center diff $1800
4-bolt rear $300
ACT2900 $450
JMFab SMIM w/ Q45 TB $600
1600cc Injectors $350
MAFT Pro w/ DSMChip for timing etc, Logger $450
Dual Walbros, AFPR, Braided Feed/Return $400
Big FMIC w/ 3" pipes $1000
DNP T4 Manifold $650
GT42 variant $2300
Tial 44mm dumped $450
4" Custom Turbo-back $800
Water/Meth Injection $300
-----------------------------------------------------------
Total $12,900

Yes, 10's can be reached with a 10K budget, but a number of things on your list would need to change. Why would you want to run a gt42? The shear size of them makes it pretty hard to run without other modifications. I would suggest a 4094(almost the same output in a smaller frame). You also didn't address cooling, the stock radiator is going to be hard pressed to keep things cool, but it might work out for you.
 
No.

The list you have compiled is already close to $13K without any tuning or the price of the car.

SBR Stage II SB (Scrap the stocker) $2400
Stock (Refreshed) Head w/ crower cams/dual springs $650
Shep Tranny, Welded center diff $1800
4-bolt rear $300
ACT2900 $450
JMFab SMIM w/ Q45 TB $600
1600cc Injectors $350
MAFT Pro w/ DSMChip for timing etc, Logger $450
Dual Walbros, AFPR, Braided Feed/Return $400
Big FMIC w/ 3" pipes $1000
DNP T4 Manifold $650
GT42 variant $2300
Tial 44mm dumped $450
4" Custom Turbo-back $800
Water/Meth Injection $300
-----------------------------------------------------------
Total $12,900

Yes, 10's can be reached with a 10K budget, but a number of things on your list would need to change. Why would you want to run a gt42? The shear size of them makes it pretty hard to run without other modifications. I would suggest a 4094(almost the same output in a smaller frame). You also didn't address cooling, the stock radiator is going to be hard pressed to keep things cool, but it might work out for you.

Thanks for the reply. I honestly appreciate you spelling it out for me, but I should clarify a few things. The GT42, should I choose that route, would have a standard CHRA making it $1000 cheaper than the price you suggested. I got my last FMIC on ebay which was 6" deep by 36x12" for $150. The IC and exhaust piping I can weld myself for the cost of the bends, probably $250. There are some other price differences but that's basically the $2,900 extra right there. Finding less important parts used will also help. You're very right that it doesn't leave any money for error, though, which is really what I'm trying to determine from this thread. Lower my goals or find a cheaper way to get there, maybe?

As for the GT42, my logic is this: the bigger the turbo, the more efficient the compressor wheel and thus more power at a given psi. The 4" discharge on the hot side does present a logistical plumbing hurdle, but even smaller t3/t4 variants will require a custom downpipe to be made (didn't see anyone making them(?)) so why not go all out. I looked at the list of top trap speeds on the site here and it seems like everyone trapping around 140 consistently is using a 67mm/75lb turbo.
 
Your trap speed goals are right along the lines of mine. But i chose to go after it with a stroker.

My final cost, will end up in the $8k range.

Let's address the turbo. Street driveablity just won't be there with a gt42... with a 35r(about the same cost as a journal bearing 42) spool will be about a full 1000 rpms(at least) sooner give you a much better street feel and still breathe enough air to get you in the 140mph trap speed. I personally opted for a 4094r, because it spools earlier like a 35r and still delivers enough air flow to support over 800hp and i still get to use a 3" downpipe which makes plumbing relatively easy. If you go with too big of a turbo it's going to make the car unpleasant to drive. I know you said you don't mind a late spool, but a 42 is goin to be close to 6K rpm or more to see the 30psi you're going to need to get to see those 140mpg trap speeds.
 
I got my last FMIC on ebay which was 6" deep by 36x12" for $150.

WTF That's huge.

As for the GT42, my logic is this: the bigger the turbo, the more efficient the compressor wheel and thus more power at a given psi. The 4" discharge on the hot side does present a logistical plumbing hurdle, but even smaller t3/t4 variants will require a custom downpipe to be made (didn't see anyone making them(?))

If you want a bolt on, the FP 3575 has a mitsu turbine housing, so you would not be forced to make anything custom. The 3575 has proven itself time and time again. Evil_eagle got 692whp and 139 traps with this turbo. Here's a link to his awesome write-up of the 3575 and the 3065. You might also want to look at Precision's SCM61 line. There was a thread about the 6152 recently. tsiawd1995 got a 127 trap on stock 7-bolt. Steven (biglady112) got 590whp on completely stock engine. Here' a link to that recent thread. The best thing about these turbos besides their warranties is their price. You can pick up a new one for less than $800.

On a side note, a place called Victory Performance used to make o2 housings that had no fitment issues for a T3 turbine housing to the 2-bolt universal exhaust flange on downpipes. It doesn't seem they're still in business, but if you want to keep checking, their website is www.victoryperformance.com. You may even be able to find one on the classifieds.

Street driveablity just won't be there with a gt42... with a 35r(about the same cost as a journal bearing 42) spool will be about a full 1000 rpms(at least) sooner give you a much better street feel and still breathe enough air to get you in the 140mph trap speed. I personally opted for a 4094r, because it spools earlier like a 35r and still delivers enough air flow to support over 800hp and i still get to use a 3" downpipe which makes plumbing relatively easy. If you go with too big of a turbo it's going to make the car unpleasant to drive. I know you said you don't mind a late spool, but a 42 is goin to be close to 6K rpm or more to see the 30psi you're going to need to get to see those 140mpg trap speeds.

This is the point I was trying to make. The 35r is rated at 600hp. So if you can get what you want out of the 35r, why settle for the extra lag from the 42r?
 
WTF That's huge.

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If you want a bolt on, the FP 3575 has a mitsu turbine housing, so you would not be forced to make anything custom. The 3575 has proven itself time and time again. Evil_eagle got 692whp and 139 traps with this turbo. Here's a link to his awesome write-up of the 3575 and the 3065. You might also want to look at Precision's SCM61 line. There was a thread about the 6152 recently. tsiawd1995 got a 127 trap on stock 7-bolt. Steven (biglady112) got 590whp on completely stock engine. Here' a link to that recent thread. The best thing about these turbos besides their warranties is their price. You can pick up a new one for less than $800.

On a side note, a place called Victory Performance used to make o2 housings that had no fitment issues for a T3 turbine housing to the 2-bolt universal exhaust flange on downpipes. It doesn't seem they're still in business, but if you want to keep checking, their website is www.victoryperformance.com. You may even be able to find one on the classifieds.


This is the point I was trying to make. The 35r is rated at 600hp. So if you can get what you want out of the 35r, why settle for the extra lag from the 42r?

The 35R is a sick turbo and while it could probably get me to where I want to be, it would probably be out of its best efficiency range, while a T67 (with adequate hot side) would be just getting into the sweet spot. The 3575 is an attractive turbo because it's got the 67mm comp wheel I like and it bolts on, but the 692whp jake (no, i don't know him personally) got was with a 50 shot. Even so, I was still considering it BUT it's still got a V-band outlet making it necessary to use the $400 FP O2 housing. Might as well go full garrett and put that $400 toward a tubular manifold. It doesn't look like victory performance is still around. I think the SCM61s are a great, though smaller option. Hell I used that same turbo with a t4 turbine on my 3000GT. But the mitsu housing is just going to turn into a huge bottleneck at the race gas numbers I'm looking for, I think.
 

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