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have scm6152e, what to upgrade too? My goals inside

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90laserRSfwd

15+ Year Contributor
1,412
84
Mar 5, 2007
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
I have a journal bearing scm6152e right now (well just sold it actually). I am going to be in the market for a new turbo in the next week or so and I just want some opinions. Here's the 411 on my car (sorry I have to update my profile still).

91 TSi awd 5 speed
3" downpipe, test pipe, and catback (no cat, no muffler, no problem <-- neat saying huh?)
91 eprom ecu, dsmlink, innovative wideband, and boost, oil press, fuel press guages
halman pro MBC (getting avc r for christmas, can't wait, blah blah blah)

Exhaust manifold is (SBR) ported 2g / 2.5" o2 dump (punishment racing) used with my PTE scm6152e

Walbro 255 high pressure pump
Mallory 1:1 FPR (-6an lines)
FIC 950cc injectors
ARP studs and Mitsu MLS head gasket
crower springs and retainers (ferrea comp 6000 valves)
hks 264/272 combo ( have BC 280's just waiting for some dual springs)
maft and 3" sensor (dejon uicp)
ssauto junk fmic kit (hasn't leaked yet, knock on wood)
ACT 2100 with street disc
some other stuff

I want to run a low 11 or high 10 on c16 or e85 THAT IS MY GOAL

My car full weight, a/c, 800 watt stereo system, etc. (no actual weight yet sorry, 3300 lbs+ for sure though)

Let me know what other info you guys need and what your suggestion on a turbo would be. Not looking to spend more then 2K total (if I get say like a t3 setup with an external wastegate or something like that). I would like to stay with the Mitsu bolt on deal if I can. I don't care about turbo lag. I'm not looking to get a gt42r because I want to run a 10 not a 7. Thanks!
 
If it were me i would say a pt-67 that is just a little bigger then a 6152. Or theres the new borg-warner turbos a S362-S366 would do it to. Do not use a bolt on style turbo go with a t3-t4.
 
I sold my 6152e to aquire some much needed cash for other parts (namely a better turbo and bigger injectors and a Bosch 044 inline pump). I like the FP HTA gt35r, just dumping my wastegate into the atmosphere is illegal here in PA. LOL

to delta488: yes I'm looking for something with quicker spool up and / or more potential

to TurboAnything: I was looking into the bolt on stuff because it's illegal to vent the wastegate to the atmosphere. I already have a hollowed out cat, but I'm not looking to be flagged before I get to begin the emissions test for inspection.

Thanks for the reply's thus far. Did I mention this is a full weight street car with an 800 watt stereo system, A/C, and power everything that I wanted to get those times on? I think I forgot that.. oops :)
 
to delta488: yes I'm looking for something with quicker spool up and / or more potential

Which is more important?

Honestly you're looking at one or the other here unless you increase engine displacement. The turbine size gives you either quicker spool or more flow, you will have to compromise if you stay bolt-on. If you want spool more I'd say a BEP GT3076R or a 54 trim, if you want more potential I'd say you need to give up on being bolt-on and get ready to spend a lot of cash.
 
I'd say more potential as I don't really care about spool as much. When you know the turbo is going to come on (no linear response, just kicks you right in the pants without any forgiveness) it makes the waiting (lag) less and less of a concern. I just really would like to run a low 11 or high 10 like I said. Preferably on e85 so I can say that I truely have a pump gas 10 second car. I'm am planning on revving the car to 9K or more if the need arises. I have 3 - 6 bolts in my garage now and I'm not afraid to rebuild or refresh things. I just want something that's semi - reliable, this is not my daily driver, and I was hoping to spend under 2K for the turbo setup (mani, wastegate, o2, and turbo), but it looks like that's not going to happen. Hope this helps answer your question.
 
I have a scm6176 and I'm planning on upgrading as well. I was in the same boat as you, I didn't want to spend much money so I opted to keep the mitsu mani an bought an sc61 with a mitsu hotside because it makes big peak power for cheap, but now I regret it and wish I would have spent a little more money and done things right the first time. I've been doing alot of research on turbo's for the last year trying to make my decision and it seems like the HTA35r is the best turbo for the price. For a while I was considering a 37r (pt6776r bb) with a divided t4 hotside, it should make around 700whp and easily run 10's or even 9's on E85 or C16 but I think it would be too laggy and make the car less fun to drive. I've also considered a twin scroll ball-bearing 4088r, it should make over 700whp as well but it's very expensive ($1900) and probably won't spool quite as fast as the HTA. I figured the 4088 would make significantly more power than the HTA but I changed my mind recently when David Bushur made over 700whp with a single scroll T3 HTA35R on a 2.0 liter evo. I want to say the torque output was over 600 ft lbs as well. The HTA is $1699 and you should be able to get a 44mm gate for around $400. By the time you throw in a decent T3 tubular mani and an O2 housing your gonna be pretty far over your 2k budget. However, if you go the cheap route now, you will probably spend even more money in the future when your realize you are not meeting your goals because you went with a less efficient setup. Most of the people who have installed HTA 35r's and posted results online have said that the spool is significantly better than a standard 35r and it makes more power up top. I'm still waiting on someone to grab one of the twinscroll 35r's from full-race and send it to ForcedPerformance to have the hta compressor wheel installed. The divided hotside combined with the super efficient HTA compressor wheel on a 2.4 engine should make the part-throttle response and spool similar to a 50 trim and still make over 700 horses at the wheels. If a twin scroll HTA 35r performs as expected it should offer the total package; Quick spool, great part throttle response, fun driveability, more power accross a broader part of the rpm band and excellent top-end performance. Of course this is all speculation since no-one has actually tried the hta wheel on a twin scroll 35R yet. It might not work at all...but I'm really hoping it lives up to the hype.
 
u can go t3/t4 and not vent the wastegate. just run a recirculation. i have a ptsc63 t3 and i get full spool at 4600 on a stroker . the turbo is good for 10's makes 400awhp on 20psi on my car and havent put the thing on race gas .. but it should hit 600awhp no prob.
 
I really like the HTA and I almost ordered one the other day. Just don't want to order another turbo. I'd be really intrested in that twin scroll set up your talked about also. I just can't see spending 3K+ on a turbo, mani, WG, and downpipe / recirculating o2; you know ?
 
I'd thought that I pretty much had chosen to go with the HTA gt35r from Forced Performance. However after looking over things further, it would cost over 3 grand by the time I bought a good manifold, 44mm tial wastegate, o2 housing and got the w/g dumped back into the downpipe. Something I already knew that just didn't sink in at first I suppose.

jkimes: do you wanna sell that scm6176 and is it the ball bearing or journal bearing version?

I'm still debating over a turbo. I have since gotten alot of over time at my job and will be ordering a turbo by the end of Jan. '08. I am still thinking about staying bolt on. I have since aquired a SBR stage 3 cylinder head. Sold my avc r and bought a Joe P manual boost controler, sold my FIC 950's and am debating on 1150's or 1600's. I still have my BC 280's and am awaiting the arrival of my dual springs. I am also looking to purchase a JMF SMIM as well.

So now would like to ask everyone's opinions on (all 3: bolt on turbo's, ball bearing mostly, injector sizes: 1150 vs 1600's, and fuel pump configuration). I'm running a Walbro 255 hi press. pump (intank now). I'll be hooking up that Bosch 044 inline pump soon. How are you guys' pump setups? Are you guys running an 044 inline with the intank walbro ? Does anyone object to using -6an line for fuel, or should I consider -8an or larger ?
 
If I decide to go with FIC 1600cc injectors, will the AEM injector driver box work? I have seen it @ summit racing for less then $300. From what I've read that little box seems to cure everyone's problems with using dsmlink and 1600cc injectors. Is this true? Should I order that one or is there another brand that works?
 
I say if you want to achieve your goals easily you should definitely take a look at the BW S366, these are really beginning to pick up popularity in our market. They are already huge with the V8 guys and Honda's. BTW if you switch to an AEM EMS you will not need a P&H box, many people run 1600cc injectors with great street manors. And if you are looking for a set of 1600's I have a brand new set that I never ended up using.
 
The 950cc's will be more then enough to make what you need...But since they are sold I would scoop up FIC 1150's

Punishment racing sells a nice 35r kit but, I personally would have just stuck with the 6152...It's a very capable turbo...

I would just be leary of that stock bottom end...
 
I would probably sell my turbo for $650 with the 2.5" punishment racing O2 housing attatched. it is an SCM6176, journal bearing, and internally gated. It probably has about 3000 miles on it and should still be under warranty from precision. It has no shaft play and is in great working condition other than needing a good cleaning. It has never been pushed hard (over 24psi) because my 7 bolt blew up before I had a chance to tune it for high boost and I simply haven't had time to tune or hardly even drive my car for that matter since I put the 2.4 race motor in it. It should be capable of 500-600whp with lots of boost, but I still think you should spend the extra cash and go with the HTA setup.
 
I like the bolt on style since I have my car already set up for it, dam I wish you had the ball bearing turbo. I'm not really looking for another journal bearing model I don't think. That's a pretty good price though. Does that include shipping ? Post some pictures.. (debating on the journal bearing thing) is it oil cooled only?, like my scm6152e? also what compressor cover is on it ?
 
head gasket went on the car 2 days ago. Not sure what the problem was. Sending the head over to the machine shop to get checked out on Tuesday. Sold my 2g ported manifold and got an EVO III mani that's being ported right now. Also noticed that the clutch is starting to slip really bad with the 5500 rpm launches. Guess I'm pretty happy with what it has done throughout it's 12K mile life in my car. I've always heard that an ACT 2100 is good for a fwd and 2600 for an AWD. Like a dumb idiot I ordered the 2100, expecting God himself to have mercy on the clutch (which he has considering my driving style). I ending up purchasing another PTE scm6152e turbo. I still have yet to get injectors. I have started building one of my other 6 bolt motors (SCAT rods with Mahle pistons). Hoping to get some more advice on the injector driver box. How's everyone else's cars coming along? I'm bored waiting for parts. It's taking forever and a day to get my dual springs. WTF
 
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