Road Race Build HPDE/Road Race 1G

[talon77]

talon77 submitted a new DSM Profile :

HPDE/Road Race 1G


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[90laserRSfwd]

Waiting like a kid a christmas to see pic's!!

 

[talon77]

talon77 updated HPDE/Road Race 1G


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[talon77]

So, I took the 1g out to Summit Point Raceway for a 3-day track event with the Porsche Club of America (PCA) this weekend and I must say, I am impressed with how she performed! I attempted a track weekend about a month and a half ago but I struggled with some reliability issues. In general, some of the reliability issues that I have been struggling with in the past (strictly on trackdays) are the following:

1. Overheating. I wrestled with coolant temps with my ETS FMIC and no matter how much I ducted, bigger 3-core Mishimoto Aluminum radiator, ran straight water with wetter, no thermostat, etc. temps kept on creeping up to 220F +. Finally I punted and swapped out to my Supra SMIC with 2.25" piping and runs pretty awesome now! I'm going to keep it this way for the time being for a few seasons, but I have a trick up my sleeve to get the FMIC back on... stay tuned.
2. Boost creep on Evo3 16g FP ported turbo. Minimum boost I can run is 23psi. This is ok on the street but I feel it is very harsh on the car on the roadcourse running this pressure for 30 minute stints on a relatively "tiny" SMIC. So, I converted the E316g to external wastegate (Tial F38 I believe) and ported the wg hole as much as I could. To note, there is not much meat on the E316g to port at the wastegate hole area so I was limited on how much I could port. FWIW, the regular Big 16g wg hole area appears to have much, much more meat to port. Oh well. On the ported E316g External wastegate, I can run 19psi all day long... I can live with that.
3. I had an issue with my JayRacing alternator relocation kit lower bracket at my last track outing. The aluminum bracket develop stress cracks over time and cracked about 80% of the way through at my last event. Jay was kind enough to help me upgrade to his upgraded steel HD lower bracket, which is what I am using today. Jay is AWESOME to deal with. He is very reasonable. He makes awesome products and really keeps the racers that buys his parts in mind. I would not hesitate to buy more parts from Jay. Heck, if he made a 1g fender brace like the 2g guys have, I would seriously, seriously consider it since I know that he stands by this products.

Ok, back to this weekend with the PCA. What an AWESOME time!!! This is an instructed High Performance Driver's Education Event (HPDE) where "point-by's" are required for passing, so technically it is not "racing" but you are pushing your car to the limit (if you are doing it right . The event is 3 days and there are (4) 25-minute continuous hot lapping sessions each day. I am proud to say that my humble 1g talon AWD not only held its own in the sea of Porsches and BMWs, but I was KILLING it! I can't even keep track of how many Porsches I passed. It has taken some time to get the car reliable enough so that I could focus on just driving (and not having to work on the car all the time), but I felt like all the work really, really paid off this weekend. The JIC FLT-A2 coilovers, welded trailing arms, poly bushings, BAER mustang cobra brakes with CarboTech pads, TMZ Evo3 "fully activated" clutchpack rear diff all really came together to make this car a capable track beast that ran pretty consistently and allowed me to improve my driving skills lap after lap. I have some pics and I will share an in-car go-pro vid as soon as I get my SD card back from my bro. There was a modded 2013 STi that was very fast, and an E92 M3 seem well matched with my car (talon was still faster though) and a crazy fully built C5 racecar vette and a brand new C7 Z06 vette (but both of those guys got bumped up from our run groups because they were INSANELY fast). Regardless, I felt like me and the talon held our own and very well represented the DSM community on the roadcourse (we are rarely ever seen out there, and nobody really knows what the car is except the ones that had them when they were "kids."

The only downer of the weekend was that I blew the gasket on my external wastegate halfway through the 3rd day of the event and the hot exhaust gas shot a hole through my heat wrap and heated up the engine compartment to the point where I MELTED MY TIMING BELT COVER, SPARK PLUG COVER, and totally discintegrated the insulation from the wiring on my O2 sensor! It was totally unreal! I managed to remove the melted plastic covers from the timing area and limped it home off boost. When I got home, the strut tower brace was hot to the point of untouchable. The timing belt looks totally fine. It did take alot of heat though. I still intend to run it again at my next event in October with the same belt... any thoughts? Would ya?

Before my next event in October (same track, with PCA) I intend to do the following:
- Brake ducts. This car has very, very strong brakes but they start to fade every lap at the last turn (turn 10) cuz I think the fluid is boiling (Stoptech 660 DOT 4 fluid). I think the ducts will go a long way.
- Need to change out that blown WG gasket. The gasket that I used is an SCE Copper gasket I think. Tial now makes an upgraded steel gasket. I'm gonns give that a try. Hopefully it holds!
- Need to replace the O2 sensor and melted insulation/wiring.

As a last thought for now, Dan from MachV must have spotted my car when I was out there. He left me his card on my windshield between sessions. I'm gonna give him a call just to say hi because he was nice enough to do so. I believe his business focuses much more on Subarus and maybe some Evo work these days.

That's all I have for now, I will keep this Discussion posted and updated.

 

[talon77]

Below are pics of the old cracked aluminum Jay Racing Alternator Relocation Lower Mount (I inadvertently named the file JaySteel); the Blown Tial WG gasket that ruined the last half of the last day of the track event (which coulda been worse I suppose); and the melted carnage!

 

[talon77]

Few other things before I forget:

1) Thank you Extremepsi for making this nice multi-layer steel 7cm turbo gasket and continued support for these cars. I understand that the factory Evo3 7cm gasket is either no longer made, but it is seriously expensive. Anyways thanks for providing us with a cheap $15 gasket alternative (that seems to be holding up fine).

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=29669&cat=863&page=1

I must note that I had to slightly open the bolt holes a little bit with a rotary grinder bit in order for it to fit my factory Mitsu Evo316 turbo. This is not a bash because I appreciate the product, but just wanted people to know that you MAY have to do this too...

2) I used CarboTech XP10 race brake pads at the track and had to do a track brake change and fluid flush. Man that brake set up brakes really f-in strong. Thanks to John Freund for recommending them to me! I think brake ducts will prevent the fluid boil and make this brake setup over the top and super confidence-inspiring. I will report back after i do the brake ducts and try them out at the next track outing.

 

[talon77]

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[TAMA_player]

Awesome !!
It looks like lots of fun.

How are iats with the supra smic?

I'll be waiting for that video footage

 

[talon77]

Honestly not sure, cuz I wasn't loggin my laps. I ran about 40% 100 octane race gas and mixed with 93 octane to keep knock in check though. Right now I'm runnin 19psi, but I've actually run 23psi on the supra SMiC before (with race gas mixture) I would not recommend that. I believe I had MAD exhaust gas temps at 23psi, as indicated by this busted turbine gasket (which was why I change out to the Extremepsi gasket).

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Hello there!

Really nice to see others taking their rides to a road course! For the money, there is no other way to get more seat time than an open track day! I also use Carbotech XP10's for track days. I have yet to experience much fluid boil on my setup, but I am not ready for r-compounds yet. I do however have to replace the boots on the calipers between track days as they nearly melt. They are not currently available for the OEM DSM brake caliper, but have you considered titanium backing plates for the Stoptechs? Your brake ducting idea is also a good solution to reducing temps. On my 2g, there isn't much space for ducting, but I have borrowed this idea:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/porsche-gt3-brake-ducts-installed-on-2g.490249/

For your cooling issues, the ducting idea is a great solution, perhaps ensure that everything is indeed sealed off. I am also curious is your radiator core is almost too thick when paired with the FMIC. If you have not yet done so, wrapping the water pump pipe that runs underneath the exhaust manifold can keep unwanted heat away from the cooling system.

When making your repairs, you may also want to check out/replace the valve cover gasket as well.

Nice build, look forward to more updates!

 

[talon77]

XP10s are awesome. Yeah my piston boots (I think that's what they are called) on my Baer Mustang Cobra brakes are in really bad shape too and I noticed they have started falling apart. I will look into the backing plate idea, but gonna see how tough it is to implement the ducts first. Man that would be awesome if I could get those porsche ducts to work on car, I'll have to look.

I'll definitely wrap the pipe next time the turbo comes out.

Thanks for the great ideas!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Hello there!

Really nice to see others taking their rides to a road course! For the money, there is no other way to get more seat time than an open track day! I also use Carbotech XP10's for track days. I have yet to experience much fluid boil on my setup, but I am not ready for r-compounds yet. I do however have to replace the boots on the calipers between track days as they nearly melt. They are not currently available for the OEM DSM brake caliper, but have you considered titanium backing plates for the Stoptechs? Your brake ducting idea is also a good solution to reducing temps. On my 2g, there isn't much space for ducting, but I have borrowed this idea:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/porsche-gt3-brake-ducts-installed-on-2g.490249/

For your cooling issues, the ducting idea is a great solution, perhaps ensure that everything is indeed sealed off. I am also curious is your radiator core is almost too thick when paired with the FMIC. If you have not yet done so, wrapping the water pump pipe that runs underneath the exhaust manifold can keep unwanted heat away from the cooling system.

When making your repairs, you may also want to check out/replace the valve cover gasket as well.

Nice build, look forward to more updates!

There is a company they sell bilt on ducts that will fit our cars just google evo brake ducts and they are around 125 if i remember correctly, i also made my own backing plates for the bells to keep and circulate the cool air into the vains, if you need help on the backing plates i can try get you a copy of mine to cut around,

Also carbotech xp10 pads are amazing to use. Coming from 120 to a stop is super fast, ive now got to learn alot in braking late and getting my balls to allow my brain to brake so late aswell

 

[talon77]

Thanks for the input on the brake ducts, I'm going to do some researching and look in the brake area to see what kind of space I have to work with in this 1g. Thanks!

 

[talon77]

Here is the link for the youtube of my GoPro for one of my Day2 session runs. It had rained previously but the track pretty much started drying up.

 

[talon77]

Here is a youtube of me running pretty much an open track, it was great! I pretty much lapped the two yellow Porsches at the end, man what a good time:

 

[talon77]

talon77 updated HPDE/Road Race 1G


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[talon77]

talon77 updated HPDE/Road Race 1G


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[talon77]

Another HPDE update from PCA event that I attended at Summit Point Raceway last weekend!

Day1: Essentially rained all day. I stopped running on the 4th session (4 out of 5) because I noticed a downpipe leak and very lean readings on my Innovate wideband O2 (although no knock). It turns out that the (2) nuts holding the downpipe to the JMF O2 housing had COMPLETELY backed out and fallen out! The only thing holding the downpipe from falling to the ground was the downpipe-to-block bracket that I fabbed up (mimicking the OEM bracket). Crazy! I'm hearing more and more people on the roadcourse forum here speaking to bolts/nuts working loose due to the heat from doing hotlaps. I also have this problem and prior to this season I went ahead and installed safety wire (@cioc) borrowed the idea from Cioc; I did this for the turbo-to-manifold bolts, and the turbo-to-O2 housing bolts. I'm happy to report that none of those bolts budged during this 2-day event, but the downpipe nuts (that I didn't safety wire, or use locknuts/lockwashers, my mistake) did fall out ugh.

Safety Wired bolts:

Day2: Rain dried up and I got to push the talon a bit. I still have lots to learn, but she held up and held her own against the myriad of porsches, audis, and some bimmers. It's great to interact with other folks after the run and they are surprised that an old 1g Eagle Talon was hanging/passing their 911's, Caymans, M3s, S5s and such... fun stuff! The brakes were great this time around: strong, confident, and no fluid boiling! I attribute this to the newly installed brake ducts (more ideas borrowed cioc , the dust shields that I tossed which likely trapped heat in, Castrol SRF fluid, and the great carbotech XP10 pads! Overall I ran great sessions on Day2, until I cracked a brake rotor , I got 4 out of 5 good seesions in, so I packed it up and called it a day and considered it a "leave while you're ahead situation." Great times, can't wait to go back out to Summit with NASA next month!

Brake Duct:

Cracked Rotor:

As an aside:
I had previously struggled with overheating issues out at the track due to the FMIC blocking radiator airflow. I tried ducting and other ideas to no avail. This season, I went ahead and carved some rather large openings in the bumper so that air totally bypasses the FMIC and goes straight to the rad. I had link programmed to trigger check engine light at 219F and temp monitored on the dash via reprogrammed boost gauge using link. With the large openings, the light never came on and the temps looked to be in good position on the gauge. I bet it never got much higher than 210F.

Bumper openings:

 

[talon77]

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[talon77]

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[TSiAWD666]

The whole time I'm reading this I'm thinking this is Will, but... then at the end I don't see a silver 1g. Have we met?

 

[cioc]

aaaaaaand safety wire for the win! I'm glad it worked out for you. I haven't even track tested the idea yet so hearing that it worked puts one of my ongoing concerns at ease. Glad the brake ducts worked out as well!

 

[Meech Meimaris]

Rory, nice work, glad I got to meet you and see the car in person, thanks for all your help in the short time we know each other. Bruce's Speed Shop is the best!!!
Meech

 

[talon77]

Just posted a new vid of my recent track outing, which was with Trackdaze. Some hiccups, but overall the Talon ran great and passed a handful of E36 and E46 M3s despite my handicap of 300+ tread wear unsticky tires.

https://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=iXiexuTLUyY

 

[talon77]

Dan, the owner of MachV motorsports saw me changing brake pads in the pits and stopped by to say hi and we talked dsms, evos, and Scooby doos for a bit. Super nice guy!