1Ga road race build

[hoyhoy414]

so I got the car about a year ago for a couple pennies (when they were still used) , and had acouple of stock dsms before this one , 91 1g gsx and a 2g NA , both dailys ,so this is my third one and ready to make this one go fast : ). so with out further adue here is some pics of the progress , enojy

**moving time **

** fresh paint **waiting for bushing kit >

and some fresh parts coming in slowly : )

***have alittle daily distraction *** ; P after my civic got involved in a game of bumper cars it was time of a new DD 2g GSX

found alittle issue got lucky nothing got any worse

** anayway continuing on **

MORE TO COME STAY TUNED : )

 

[EVO9_Inside]

good luck, looks like fast progress, i just started my build a month ago for my 1ga.

 

[nitrouskris]

make sure you double check the ebay valves and guides. find some to be off as of late

last set of guides were 6.60 to 6.65 when they should be 6.45 - on the inside. I like to match the the valves n guides to the same brand name.

Best of luck with the build

 

[hoyhoy414]

make sure you double check the ebay valves and guides. find some to be off as of late

last set of guides were 6.60 to 6.65 when they should be 6.45 - on the inside. I like to match the the valves n guides to the same brand name.

Best of luck with the build

Ya I was sceptical about getting the valves and guides off of eBay but I know acouple of guys on my local forum are running these valves and guides in higher hp applications and haven't have any problem s, plus the buyer I bought them off doesn't mass manufacture these , so less chance these measurements will be off, but still a chance tho . Shout out to engbuldr
. Either way the seats will have to be recut , stock valves had abit of leak from pitting,.

But thanks man ! Really appreciate the feedback

 

[nitrouskris]

Ya I was sceptical about getting the valves and guides off of eBay but I know acouple of guys on my local forum are running these valves and guides in higher hp applications and haven't have any problem s, plus the buyer I bought them off doesn't mass manufacture these , so less chance these measurements will be off, but still a chance tho . Shout out to engbuldr
. Either way the seats will have to be recut , stock valves had abit of leak from pitting,.

But thanks man ! Really appreciate the feedback

FYI He doesnt make them at all. NOT the guides or Valves. We both buy from the same place. They will work but I dont put them on any type of race car. Only on cars that will see the track here and there

They had a bad run on the guides and over drill some.

 

[hoyhoy414]

Ok good to know, i will most likely get rid of them then ,

 

[nitrouskris]

Ok good to know, i will most likely get rid of them then ,

Just double check the specs

I just checked 4 Diff Brand of exhaust guides

A - was 6.45
B - was 6.50
C - was 6.60
D - was 6.50

A - 45.64
B - 50.57
C - 50.60
D -50.18

 

[CrashGNX]

not bad, for road race you really have to watch the airflow from the front through the radiator. I'm running a air/water intercooler so my heat exchanger is alot smaller and thinner than that FMIC. I run 2 8 inch fans on the heat exchanger and both stock rad fans with a champion 3 core aluminum radiator and I still have airflow problems but I still have my AC condensor in there also cause it still works. going to be a major re-design on my front end this winter.

Also you will have to run a surge tank or a fuel cell that wont slosh and run the pump dry on corners. thats a major problem in the 1G platform.

Brakes will definitely need to be bigger, I went to 3000gt VR4 4-piston caliper on the front and powerstop stock size rotors on the rear and they seem to work well. Very big difference over the pathetic stock setup.

You will need to solve the massive understeer problem inherent in these cars also, at least a large rear sway bar and coilovers with stiff springs all the way around. stock front swaybar is pretty big and will most likely be fine with some bushings and new links. I went with a Whilteline rear bar for a GVR4 but I cannot recommend it because it doesnt fit quite right without some custom links or way to attach it to the rear lower arms.

Go ahead and address the subframe and body mounts while its apart. Prothane or energy has poly mounts for just about everything except for the rear subframe and I believe BOOSTX still sells the rear subframe bushings on here (I still havent ordered my set yet)

I definitely recommend getting a certified road race cage put in to help further with the chassis rigidity and strut braces front/rear.

If its a full race car loose weight anywhere you can on it, these cars are pigs to begin with. Mine is 3338lbs with me in it but I havent put it on a diet really at all yet. I still have most of the interior and added the air/water IC along with 5 gal of water for it, still have carpet, AC, Power steering, etc.

Thats all I can think of to warn about off the top of my head. Its worth it when you get it out on the track though.

 

[hoyhoy414]

not bad, for road race you really have to watch the airflow from the front through the radiator. I'm running a air/water intercooler so my heat exchanger is alot smaller and thinner than that FMIC. I run 2 8 inch fans on the heat exchanger and both stock rad fans with a champion 3 core aluminum radiator and I still have airflow problems but I still have my AC condensor in there also cause it still works. going to be a major re-design on my front end this winter.

Also you will have to run a surge tank or a fuel cell that wont slosh and run the pump dry on corners. thats a major problem in the 1G platform.

Brakes will definitely need to be bigger, I went to 3000gt VR4 4-piston caliper on the front and powerstop stock size rotors on the rear and they seem to work well. Very big difference over the pathetic stock setup.

You will need to solve the massive understeer problem inherent in these cars also, at least a large rear sway bar and coilovers with stiff springs all the way around. stock front swaybar is pretty big and will most likely be fine with some bushings and new links. I went with a Whilteline rear bar for a GVR4 but I cannot recommend it because it doesnt fit quite right without some custom links or way to attach it to the rear lower arms.

Go ahead and address the subframe and body mounts while its apart. Prothane or energy has poly mounts for just about everything except for the rear subframe and I believe BOOSTX still sells the rear subframe bushings on here (I still havent ordered my set yet)

I definitely recommend getting a certified road race cage put in to help further with the chassis rigidity and strut braces front/rear.

If its a full race car loose weight anywhere you can on it, these cars are pigs to begin with. Mine is 3338lbs with me in it but I havent put it on a diet really at all yet. I still have most of the interior and added the air/water IC along with 5 gal of water for it, still have carpet, AC, Power steering, etc.

Thats all I can think of to warn about off the top of my head. Its worth it when you get it out on the track though.

yes heat is going to be my first issue to think about , I will be takeing as meny nessasary septs that I have to ,to combat the heat ,. what size of turbo are you running ? I was going to upgrade to a EVOIII big 16g ,

as far as the fuel cell I have to have one for safety regulations same with a full cage, and dont worry all my interior is out and in the trash , so shedding the pounds as we speak, also what you forgot to mention is the sound deadening on the floors , that all has to be peeled off because its a potencial fire haz.

Brakes ... was thinking just to upgrade to EVO 9s brembos, or would you recommend the 3000gt set up ? If anyone else has anyimput on this subject I would like to hear

full energy suspension bushing on its way , not to sure but I might do both swaybars just because ... and good tires, ill be dumping alot into tires , and all unnessisary components in the engine bey will be gone , except not to sure if I should keep power steering , ,

thanks for the imput !

 

[CrashGNX]

currently i'm running a stock 14b because I wasted my ebay16g and this turbo was practically brand new and sitting on the shelf. I now have a good true evo3 16g to swap next time I have to pull the turbo. I run alot of autocross so I need the fast spool of the 14b but the 16g did just fine when it was working. The 16g would be preferred for road race since your up in the RPM anyway and a HTA68 would give just a bit more flow high RPM.

EVO8/9 brakes are 4 piston brembo calipers also, essentially you will get the same performance out of them as the 3kvr4. I am running 13.1 EBC mustang cobra rotors on the front with them, not sure of the rotor solution for the EVO brakes but I know it has been done. I bought my setup essentially as a full kit cheaper than I could piece it together and get the brackets made.

I havent gotten rid of all my sound deadening yet, I chipped off everything under the rear seat since thats where I have my water tank and water/meth pump/tank. It will eventually all go away.

I'm running some Volk/rays TE37 17x9 rims and they barely clear the front calipers. I'll most likely be going to some 18x9 or 18x10 rims when I can afford it. Tires are pretty key. Im shooting for running 275x35-18 Hoosier R6s since I can pick them up relatively cheap used and they should give good grip and contact patch. I'm burning up my 245/40-17s im running now due to weight really. The Toyo R1R are good for wet traction and street driving/autocross and do alright for track days also.

Power steering is really up to you, I keep it because I prefer it and I still drive mine on the street. There are reports on the internet of our power steering causing the wheel to be hard to turn at high rpms but I have never experienced it myself in 2 years of running autocross and track.

A vented hood of some sorts helps with heat as well. I found a junkyard hood, cut a hole in it above the header and put a shroud sweeping back in front of it mainly for testing purposes and it definitely vents alot of heat. Looks odd-ball but gets all kinds of attention in the paddok . Course any DSM in my area that can survive track abuse is rare so it gets attention from anyone that knows what it is. Needless to say im the only one in my area that runs a DSM. I keep it looking kinda rough on purpose so its unsuspecting to these high dollar Porsches and BMWs at the autocross tracks. Well, unsuspecting until I launch at 15PSI and toast their times .

Forgot to mention, the doors on these cars are rediculously heavy so putting a cage in and gutting the doors will save you probably close to 70lbs per door.

 

[hoyhoy414]

Update bushing kit delivered !!

Will most likely install next weekend ,

 

[EVO9_Inside]

any updates?