Road Race Build HPDE/Road Race 1G

[talon77]

Here's another vid that a fellow driver shared with me. Same weekend.

 

[talon77]

Last event of the season for me at my local track Summit Point through PCA Porschefest! Overall things went great until I overheated my brakes and cracked (another) front rotor. Here's a vid of me chasing down a sweet looking white Porsche 718 Boxster Spyder in a session before my brakes gave up. Took me awhile, but I eventually got him!

 

[TAMA_player]

Two cars in a single straight Not bad

That Porsche really can feel the Force at his back, lap after lap

Congrats bro that really looks like tons of fun! Wondering why your cobra brakes are giving up, maybe is time for some air tunnels? idk. Again Congrats!

 

[TSiAWD666]

Hey, small tip that might help. In the carousel it seems you're not carrying much speed, perhaps so you can make turn 7 smoothly, not really sure. You can hold a more speed and throttle there though since you're understeering here it may seem you won't ever make turn 7. If you carry more speed, then just before turn 7 let off throttle just for a split second so as to get the car to rotate. This will get you through there faster plus really let you rotate and hug the gators on the right in turn 7 so as to set you up for the best line through 8, giving you even more speed since it straightens 8 out.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Pretty nice, man! My 1g has a pretty nice suspension on it and I've thought about racing it myself. Could you talk more about that big vent in the middle of the hood? Is that something you got from Home Depot? It looks pretty good. Do you feel it helps?

 

[talon77]

Yeah, that's basically an HVAC Home Depot vent that I modded to bolt onto a large rectangular opening that I cut into the hood for additional venting (above and beyond the nice RRE carbon hood vent). Not sure about other 1gs, but my 1g has always run super hot. I feel like I have most of my temperature issues under control for track duty now because I've run in low 90 degree weather without overheating, but I've had to do the following to get to this point (with a FMIC):
1- cut bypass holes in my bumper cover and bumper structure to allow air to get directly to the radiator without going through the FMIC.
2- larger Mitsumoto X-Line 3-core rad
3- Evo 3 oil cooler housing and air-oil cooler setup
4- heat wrapped everything I could: water pipe; exhaust mani blanket; turbine housing blanket
5- distilled water and water wetter
6- carbon fiber RRE hood vent
7- Home Depot Hood vent
8- Turn on the heat if it is a super doper hot day

I have ECMlink programmed to flash check engine light when I hit 220F, I never hit that anymore even on the hottest days.

If I had to do it all over again, I feel like I could get away without item #7 the HD Hood vent; but I definitely believe that it works. Heat pours out of that thing for sure!

 

[talon77]

Pretty nice, man! My 1g has a pretty nice suspension on it and I've thought about racing it myself. Could you talk more about that big vent in the middle of the hood? Is that something you got from Home Depot? It looks pretty good. Do you feel it helps?

I see that you have the Feals (I have a spare set of Feals coilovers in my garage as well, but currently still on my old but rebuilt JICs) which I hear is good... Do it! You might only regret it because you will get hooked FOR SURE (as a car guy, which is why you are on this site) and it is on the pricey side to get into the events, and consumables, and sorting things out can cost a lot; but I bet that you would undoubtedly LOVE IT. Good luck man.

 

[Black95TSIawd]

Nice car. I'm glued to autocross, but can't wait to do a track day.

 

[GST with PSI]

I have a spare set of Feals coilovers in my garage as well, but currently still on my old but rebuilt JICs

Who rebuilt your JICs?

 

[talon77]

Who rebuilt your JICs?

Hey Brett. I just contacted JIC directly and requested a rebuild. This was over a year ago and they basically said that they are running out of rebuild parts after they did mine though, but you could always give it a try:

JIC Magic Suspension / Ziel Motorsports Inc
2007 W Mission Rd Alhambra CA 91803
626-576-0900 TEL
626-576-0160 FAX
www.jic-magic.com

 

[GST with PSI]

Yeah, a guy on the Galant forum just had a set rebuilt, and said JIC told him hes were the last set they could do (due to lack of parts). I was just curious if you used the same source, or knew of somewhere different.

I'm guessing when my JICs go, I'll be in the market for a set of Feals.

I saw pics of a cyclone manifold. How do you plan to actuate it?

 

[talon77]

Nah, nowhere new for JIC rebuilds that I am aware of... Feals might be the way to go for you later unless you can afford more (Ohlins . Out of my budget personally.

I've already actuated it and have been doing trackdays with it this entire season. It seems to work great, but I really can't tell if it is the cyclone itself or the fact that I had curt brown work his magic to smooth it out, as the reason why I like it. I honestly cannot feel the transition when the cyclone throttle plates open at all, it is much smoother than I thought it would be, maybe its just me. I verified for a fact that it works though because when I rev the throttle at standstill to my pre-determined opening RPM (4,100) with my hood propped open, I can clearly see the cyclone shaft move and fully open the butterflies. The car has decent torque at mid range rpms getting out of corners, even with my E316g at lowish boost (19psi).
Cyclone actuation I'm using - vacuum line path: vaccum line from cyclone to --> new vacuum canister (new mitsu Montero vacuum canister) to --> dsmlink re-programmed fuel pressure solenoid to ---> cyclone actuator. Follow Path #2 in the attached picture and just use the re-programmed FPS instead of the solenoid shown in the diagram.

 

[talon77]

Soooo.... we've been getting some very weird and ferocious rain activity in my area lately and I had an incident recently where my carpet got wet from rainwater... I've always been meaning to do this, so I took the wet carpet as a sign to go for it! Nice lighter seats (maybe momo, or similar) and likely a full road-racing cage and safety harness will inevitably come in the future But for now, this is where we are at. All that stuff was surprisingly heavy when all added up (carpet, rear seats and seat belt assembly, various metal brackets, shelf, speakers, interior plastics, tire jack). I didn't get rid of the radio yet bc I didn't have that silly key that goes in the slots beside the head unit, but that too will go soon.

 

[GST with PSI]

Would you mind sharing your ECMlink settings for the FPS?

 

[talon77]

Would you mind sharing your ECMlink settings for the FPS?

I'm afraid there is not much to it sir, but here it is.

 

[GST with PSI]

Awesome, thank you.

Just installed a cyclone myself on one of my Galant VR-4s

 

[talon77]

Awesome, thank you.

Just installed a cyclone myself on one of my Galant VR-4s

View attachment 341724
View attachment 341725

Beautiful, nice paint scheme!!! Is the vacuum canister tucked under the AFPR towards the firewall? Are you going to use the original cyclone canister (if you have or can find one) or the Montero one? Jus wonderin. Overall, I like the manifold but it sure did cramp up my engine bay for space... My Jay's relocated Saturn alternator is towards the firewall and I'm dreading the day that I have to replace that thing with the cyclone in the way haha. Aside from that, cyclone is all good imo

 

[GST with PSI]

I got rid of the vacuum actuator. I modified a stock wastegate actuator to open the butterflies. I'm going to use the FPS to control when the actuator sees manifold boost.

How did you come up with the 4,100 threshold? Trial and error?

 

[talon77]

I got rid of the vacuum actuator. I modified a stock wastegate actuator to open the butterflies. I'm going to use the FPS to control when the actuator sees manifold boost.

How did you come up with the 4,100 threshold? Trial and error?

That's an interesting approach, I've read of that being done before (WG actuator and FPS) it will likely work very well.

The way that I have it set up, I should only be flowing on 1 set of runners if I am off boost AND <= 4,100 rpms. As soon as I'm on boost (even if I'm at like 3,000rpms where boost is entirely possible on an E16g of course), the vacuum canister will act as a checkvalve and start bleeding off vacuum to the cyclone actuator releasing flow to the second set of runners. I'm pretty sure this is the way the factory envisioned it, but I always believed that there was room for improvement in that setup.

The way that you have it set up with the WG, it truly should truly activate the 2nd set of runners at the rpm that you set. ie: Assuming that you set your parameters like I did (you very well may not) at 4,100rpm; even if you make boost at 3,000rpms, your WG actuator won't see boost (via the FPS) until 4,100rpm so you will truly get your second set of runners to activate at your desired rpms.... should be NICE!!!

I did some research awhile ago and I believe 4,100 rpm is the OEM activation point for cyclone (Japanese galant evo, IIRC). I never bothered playing with the switchpoint because I'm on boost most of the time that I'm at the track and the switchpoint (for my setup) becomes irrelevant as soon as the actuator sees boost so I'm flowing both runners essentially 90% of the time I'm running a track session.

Good luck Brett, let me know how your setup works when you get that running! I am curious on how the car will like on-boost behavior while flowing only 1 set of runners (only possible on your setup) up to a certain rpm of course. Genuinely curious sir.

-Will

 

[GST with PSI]

Thanks for the information, Will. I'll let you know how it goes.

Keep the updates coming, I love seeing builds like yours putting in work at the track!

 

[Meech Meimaris]

Nice work!!

 

[talon77]

Lots of work to do before the season starts. Upgrading to ECMlink V3 this year and going SD (previously on V2.5) on 2G MAF and Flex Fuel! Have an appointment to get her dyno tuned early April so lots of work to do.

More work than I initially planned. This weekend I did a BLT and found out I have a leak at the TB shaft seal. So I took apart the uicp and tore into it to get to the tb. While looking around back there, I had a hard time finding a good spot for the new flex sensor. So I decided to finally get rid of the cruise control and make room for the flex sensor. Ordered a non cruise cable from extremepsi. I also got the wiring done for the iat sensor, map sensor, and the flex sensor.

Next steps, need to get the iat sensor bung welded in, 3g brake master cylinder and lines, dyno tune, install fender braces, upgrade the brake duct coolers, find a catch can solution, fab up new turbo intake piping (no more MAF) and we should be in good shape from there.

Need to look up how to bench bleed a master cylinder though, never done that before... the whole thing from bench bleeding, to installing the Mc, to connecting the lines sounds messy hopefully I don't get brake fluid everywhere. I've been told that bench bleeding is required for a brand new Mc, which applies to this new 3g Mc I got from JNZ.

 

[talon77]

Oh yeah, still need to drop in the Wally 450 pump and fix a few broken fuel pump studs too ugh. Looking forward to that... not!

 

[talon77]

So much stress from brakes last week, prior to my track event at Summit Point 5/5-5/6! Car was pulling to the right only under hard braking so I changed the left front caliper (which was also the only caliper last season that created crazy pad taper). Then, upon further inspection, the left rear caliper seemed to be partially sticky and the right rear caliper was leaking fluid at the piston seal. Scrambled to contact Advance Autoparts and RockAuto.com to get reman replacements but they ended up ordering and sending me calipers that either used the wrong fitting (bubble flare instead of oem inverted flare) or had a cocked fitting (or threads) that didn't allow the inverted flare to sit right on the cone so it kept leaking even after being snugged tight. All said and done, I ended up having to go to a hydraulics shop to get custom brake lines made and I ended up going through (6) calipers to get the car's brakes right. Props to Frank at www.colliflower.com for helping me out and staying at the shop late and making me custom brake lines to get the situation right!

 

[talon77]

I finished the car and made it to track event on time. Unfortunately, it was a rainy weekend and on/off moist Saturday and the event got totally rained out the second half of sunday. I ended up only running 4 out of 10 sessions because the weather was so nasty. However, I am glad to say that the car was super fun and has a lot of potential in it's current form, and performed great in the few sessions that I drove. I have to say that the car is faster than me at this point, so I'm gonna need more track time to catch up! Recent mods include: E85 flex fuel conversion, fresh Dunlop Direzza Z3 Rubber, and in the brakes department I upgraded to 3g brake master cylinder (with stock oem 1g slave) and I made a second supplemental set of front brake cooler deflectors (also have brake cooling scoops and hoses). Brake fluid boiling is finally no longer an issue!

However, the problem that I'm running into now is fuel starvation on left hand turns after the tank drops anywhere near 1/2 tank. I can run around 10 laps before the bucking and bogging starts. So annoying. I've been talking @cioc and on his recommendation I think I'm gonna give the Holley Hydramat a try. I'll keep everyone posted if that solution is successful.

Here is a link of one of the track sessions with the new setup:


Definitely could go harder in the turns!

Here are the brake cooler deflectors (I borrowed the general idea from another member @Marchev).