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1G How to remove crank shaft sprocket for BSE

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juntjoo

10+ Year Contributor
780
1
Sep 12, 2011
fort myers, Florida
I'm doing a BSE and I'm@the point when I need 2 remove the crank shaft sprocket and going by my hayes manual, a couple utube vids & the vfaq article, I've run into a couple, one of which, if I remember correctly was an easy single person/single tool method involving putting a 1/2" breaker bar in the sprocket and placing the handler against the drive shaft to hold it while you crank the engine just a tad to break the bolt loose, but just today I couldn't find that method anywhere and I was pretty sure I saw it in the vfaq article but now I don't know. Can anyone verify that this is a proper and effective method of breaking loose the crank shaft? Thanks. And anyone know where I got this idea?

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Yeah, just got mine in the mail today. Excited to use it, tho just realized it's a 3/4 so I guess I gotta grab an adapter. Anyway, how do u hold the crank in place tho?

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again you should be able to get off with an impact although i think its a 19mm for the N/T also it helps to leave the belts on

or try heating at the base of the head of the bolt with a tourch

before you go pryin on things
 
Oh, LOL. As you can see I'm new to this. I thought I was just getting something strong. Thanks. Yeah so I got this milwaukee cordless one. 525 ft-lbs! Kinda heavy tho. Good to discover another purpose sure it. I got it because I was stuck on these rusty cross member bolts, which I actually eventually got off after an unintended 2 hr workout. Anyway, thanks

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If the motor is still in the car than you can just use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a socket. Put the socket on the bolt and wedge the breaker bar between the control arm and sway bar. From there tap the starter and it will take it right out. Make sure you still have the timing belt on, and the cam angle sensor un plugged also.
 
Why wouldn't you try it? It works perfect. There isn't anything to mess up. No need to take the trans off. I was actually showed this method at a Mitsubishi dealership.
 
If the motor is still in the car than you can just use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a socket. Put the socket on the bolt and wedge the breaker bar between the control arm and sway bar. From there tap the starter and it will take it right out. Make sure you still have the timing belt on, and the cam angle sensor un plugged also.

Yeah, that's the trick I read somewhere I can't remember! Anyway, but wouldn't using the impact wrench just be easier? Well I'll find out...

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Now thats creative.^^^^ LOL I probably wouldnt try it though. I jam something between the flywheel and trans and break it loose. With the trans off? Impact ......wish i had one.

Yeah, that's what hayes (or chilton's, can't remember) says

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IF you have a good impact than yeah. Sometimes the cheaper impacts won't get them. It literally takes ten seconds to do it with the breaker bar so i usually just start off like that.
 
IF you have a good impact than yeah. Sometimes the cheaper impacts won't get them. It literally takes ten seconds to do it with the breaker bar so i usually just start off like that.

Hey, my milwaukee aint cheap! It retails $450 with batteries & charger. But it IS cordless so it only can produce 525 ft-lbs which is the strongest cordless I found tho granted it's weaker than an air powered one. I've read purple having limited success with weaker ones so I'm hoping this will suffice. I'm sure I'll find plenty of use for it.

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Use a crank gear holder then break it loose with a breaker bar and a socket. Don't use the inside square, I've cracked the bolt in the past trying to get them loose that way.

If that bolt has never been out it's going to give you a heck of a time.

There's not really a big secret to the starter method, you put the bar on the crank bolt and wedge it in the suspension or against the ground, them hit the key and it breaks it loose or the bar goes flying, or both.
 
Since you are doing a BSE and you have to remove the oil pan anyway (this is only good if you've already removed the oil pan), you can rotate the crank to a point that allows you to jam a block of wood between the rotating assembly and block such that when you try to break the bolt loose, the block of wood will keep the bottom end from turning as well.

EDIT: Whooops! I see SBstar already mentioned this above. That's the method I would use.
 
Since you are doing a BSE and you have to remove the oil pan anyway (this is only good if you've already removed the oil pan), you can rotate the crank to a point that allows you to jam a block of wood between the rotating assembly and block such that when you try to break the bolt loose, the block of wood will keep the bottom end from turning as well.

EDIT: Whooops! I see SBstar already mentioned this above. That's the method I would use.

No worries. It seems to be the method with the least chance of hurting anything to me.
 
Which way does the crank shaft rotate? Lol. I should know this 1st before I try the starter method.

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Bump the key and watch the crank pully, most engines run clock wise tho
 
Well I figured that because everywhere I've read it says only to turn the crankshaft clockwise, do I would figure the same, although I'm not sure why the shaft couldn't be turned counter clockwise. But I won't argue.

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The reason that you don't turn it counterclockwise is because it will loosen the tension on the belt. The tension is held with a hydraulic tensioner. When you turn the engine backwards the belt pulls on the tensioner pulley and pushed the tensioner back in. That can cause it to slip time if you do it ehough.
 
If the motor is still in the car than you can just use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a socket. Put the socket on the bolt and wedge the breaker bar between the control arm and sway bar. From there tap the starter and it will take it right out. Make sure you still have the timing belt on, and the cam angle sensor un plugged also.

+1 Works perfect every time, this is how I've always done it. :thumb:
 
The reason that you don't turn it counterclockwise is because it will loosen the tension on the belt. The tension is held with a hydraulic tensioner. When you turn the engine backwards the belt pulls on the tensioner pulley and pushed the tensioner back in. That can cause it to slip time if you do it ehough.

Ah, gotcha. Thanks

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