how to modify fuel pup hanger for external pump . reversible

since i went with a jmf fuel cell with an external pump setup all the treads i found said to cut the hard out going line off and weld the hole shut. to me this is unacceptable since its not reversible and i dont want to mangle my fuel pump hanger that is in good condition in case my setup changes in the future.


step 1
What i did was remove the power line to the fuel pump so there would not be a sparking issue since the pump will be eliminated. I left a piece far enough out that i can put the line back in by doing a fuel pump rewire mod (was already done so i just removed the rewire to eliminate power to the pump)

step 2
I removed the power line that runs from the underside of the lid connection down to the pump. didnt want anything dangling that could cause a sparking issue

step 3

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using the 14 and 19 line wrench i removed the end of the stock hose from the hardline off the fuel pump hanger.

step 4

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for this step these are the tools you will need a 3/4 inch pipe cutter, a 19mm combo wrench and maybe the 19 line wrench

step 4

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find a spot where you can get the pipe cutter to seat and cut the outside metal hose fitting off the female side of the fuel fitting. since this is a steel fitting turn the cutting blade in very slow and use the wenches to turn the fitting slowly back and forth to cut hose end. i had to tighten the cutter 3 times to get thru the fitting evenly.

step 5

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with the outside metal cut away remove the rubber hose with a razor to expose the inner hose support. Once this is done use sandpaper or a wire wheel to scuff the stock finish on it and weld the inner support tube closed.

step 6
screw the newly sealed plug back onto the fuel pump hanger hard line and put the assembly into the tank or fuel cell.

With this line blocked like this you must have a separate vent line to use. the jmf fuel cell comes standard with a secondary vent line installed so i didn't need this one to be useable off the fuel pump hanger. And this also allows for the stock fuel level sender to function properly also.

 

[99gst_racer]

Nice write-up. So, basically what you've made here is an inverted flare cap, right? Surprisingly, I don't show they even exist.

Another approach to avoid welding would be to use an inverted flare female union and cap the other end with an inverted flare plug.

 

[3kgt2nv]

i messed around with a lot of fittings and the issue i continued to run into is that alot of the threaded fittings on the car are bspt not npt threads so finding the correct fittings would be hard / costly vs just using a piece of the old hose end which was free.

My original plan was to cap it and not have to worry about it but after 2 weeks of trying fittings and finding nothing that would seal properly when i put pressure to it i figured why not do it this way. held pressure perfectly and i didnt have to booger any threads to make this work.

on a side note many of the flared fittings will screw into a bspt thread but getting them to seal properly is not easy. Usually it will require alot of teflon tape or something more severe like lock tight.