1g AWD Fuel Pump Hanger AN Bulkhead Fitting Mod
As I was eliminating fueling issues (still to be resolved) on my 1gb DSM, I decided to go ahead and run AN line and a AN bulkhead fitting to make sure I was getting plenty of fuel to the rail and injectors so I got out my spare hanger and went to work on this modification. It isn’t hard but there are a few small things to do to make sure that you have a flat surface to seal on.
First thing up was eliminating the original feed line. I cut the top of the line (on the outside) off as flush as I could and then used a step bit to drill out the line (yes, insert the drill bit into the line on the outside where you cut it off flush) until it is free to remove.
Next, take your new bulkhead fitting and use the nylon washer as a template and draw a line around the inside of it onto the fuel pump hanger. I found that keeping it centered where the original line was works for 6AN but another mod is needed when you increase the feed line bulkhead fitting to an 8 or 10AN as I did and I will discuss that later. Use your step bit or use multiple bits, working up to the size of the inside of the sealing washer. This is the size for the fitting to go through and bolt up. Test fit the fitting until you have it just big enough for the bulkhead fitting to go through.
Now look at the bottom (inside) of the hanger and you will notice that there is a reinforcing piece of metal that attaches the hanger to the top and you will need to get part of it out to get a flat surface for the inside sealing washer to seat on. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut notches out of that metal, making sure not to take out the spot welds that hold it to the top cover. After cutting carefully to make sure I didn’t cut through the WHOLE thing, top and hanger, I used a small chisel to “peel” the remaining metal out and off of the top.
The part you cut and chisel out will look like this, giving you a smooth surface for sealing.
Now all you have to do is clean the outside and inside of the new bulkhead fitting hole with a wire wheel or emery cloth, whatever it takes to make it clean so it will seal. After I cleaned it up I blew the whole assembly out with compressed air, since I didn’t want ANY small metal particles to end up in my tank or my new pump! Clean it good!
Now insert your bulkhead fitting into the hole and make sure you have a sealing washer on the outside and the inside before putting the nut on the fitting to hold it in.
I used a piece of radiator hose, cut to fit, to put around the pump to dampen the noise and use 2 hose clamps to hold the pump to the hanger. I used the bottom metal strap to hold the pump in place also, with a stock rubber damper on it also, although it isn’t entirely necessary to do that, it just keeps pump noise down and holds a stock pump in place because the stock pump slides up into a “bell” on the pickup tube (sorry no picture of it). I also installed a new hanger gasket from @DSSA ( JNZTuning ).
Now slowly tighten up the nut on the inside that holds the bulkhead fitting to the fuel pump hanger top. I say do it slow so that the fitting doesn’t twist or move around, in case the hole you made is a bit to large and you are covering it with the sealing washers.
Now to the part at the beginning where I said if you are running 8 or 10AN you will have a little more work to do. To not eat into the spot-welded area’s that hold the hanger together, you will need to work with a carbide or similar cutter in a drill or dermal tool. I enlarged my 6AN hole to the 10AN so that I could run a 3/8” hose from the pump to the barb on the bulkhead fitting, not just a 5/16” hose (which is what you get if you have a 6 or 8AN bulkhead fitting). To do that you have to just start enlarging only the part that is between the hole and the rim of the top of the hanger. You can’t just drill the hole bigger, the hanger will fall apart, so I used a 10AN bulkhead fitting washer and marked the bigger area so I could see where it would end up
and then I “reamed” mine out towards that direction, trying hard to keep the hole circular. I did my best but did get a little bit aggressive in one area, and almost made it TOO BIG so work slow if you are going bigger and test fit each time until you have the perfect size for the bigger fittings.
I ended up cutting off the tab that holds the little blue breather off at that point, so I had enough room for the fitting. Also, the picture shows 50psi fuel line, I took that off, since it was only a test piece, and replaced it with fuel injection line, good for 200psi, I believe.
If you have any questions about how to do this and not goof it up, just PM me and tell me what part you need to have a little more explanation on and I will get right back to you.
Marty
As I was eliminating fueling issues (still to be resolved) on my 1gb DSM, I decided to go ahead and run AN line and a AN bulkhead fitting to make sure I was getting plenty of fuel to the rail and injectors so I got out my spare hanger and went to work on this modification. It isn’t hard but there are a few small things to do to make sure that you have a flat surface to seal on.
First thing up was eliminating the original feed line. I cut the top of the line (on the outside) off as flush as I could and then used a step bit to drill out the line (yes, insert the drill bit into the line on the outside where you cut it off flush) until it is free to remove.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next, take your new bulkhead fitting and use the nylon washer as a template and draw a line around the inside of it onto the fuel pump hanger. I found that keeping it centered where the original line was works for 6AN but another mod is needed when you increase the feed line bulkhead fitting to an 8 or 10AN as I did and I will discuss that later. Use your step bit or use multiple bits, working up to the size of the inside of the sealing washer. This is the size for the fitting to go through and bolt up. Test fit the fitting until you have it just big enough for the bulkhead fitting to go through.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now look at the bottom (inside) of the hanger and you will notice that there is a reinforcing piece of metal that attaches the hanger to the top and you will need to get part of it out to get a flat surface for the inside sealing washer to seat on. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut notches out of that metal, making sure not to take out the spot welds that hold it to the top cover. After cutting carefully to make sure I didn’t cut through the WHOLE thing, top and hanger, I used a small chisel to “peel” the remaining metal out and off of the top.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The part you cut and chisel out will look like this, giving you a smooth surface for sealing.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now all you have to do is clean the outside and inside of the new bulkhead fitting hole with a wire wheel or emery cloth, whatever it takes to make it clean so it will seal. After I cleaned it up I blew the whole assembly out with compressed air, since I didn’t want ANY small metal particles to end up in my tank or my new pump! Clean it good!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now insert your bulkhead fitting into the hole and make sure you have a sealing washer on the outside and the inside before putting the nut on the fitting to hold it in.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I used a piece of radiator hose, cut to fit, to put around the pump to dampen the noise and use 2 hose clamps to hold the pump to the hanger. I used the bottom metal strap to hold the pump in place also, with a stock rubber damper on it also, although it isn’t entirely necessary to do that, it just keeps pump noise down and holds a stock pump in place because the stock pump slides up into a “bell” on the pickup tube (sorry no picture of it). I also installed a new hanger gasket from @DSSA ( JNZTuning ).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now slowly tighten up the nut on the inside that holds the bulkhead fitting to the fuel pump hanger top. I say do it slow so that the fitting doesn’t twist or move around, in case the hole you made is a bit to large and you are covering it with the sealing washers.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now to the part at the beginning where I said if you are running 8 or 10AN you will have a little more work to do. To not eat into the spot-welded area’s that hold the hanger together, you will need to work with a carbide or similar cutter in a drill or dermal tool. I enlarged my 6AN hole to the 10AN so that I could run a 3/8” hose from the pump to the barb on the bulkhead fitting, not just a 5/16” hose (which is what you get if you have a 6 or 8AN bulkhead fitting). To do that you have to just start enlarging only the part that is between the hole and the rim of the top of the hanger. You can’t just drill the hole bigger, the hanger will fall apart, so I used a 10AN bulkhead fitting washer and marked the bigger area so I could see where it would end up
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
and then I “reamed” mine out towards that direction, trying hard to keep the hole circular. I did my best but did get a little bit aggressive in one area, and almost made it TOO BIG so work slow if you are going bigger and test fit each time until you have the perfect size for the bigger fittings.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I ended up cutting off the tab that holds the little blue breather off at that point, so I had enough room for the fitting. Also, the picture shows 50psi fuel line, I took that off, since it was only a test piece, and replaced it with fuel injection line, good for 200psi, I believe.
If you have any questions about how to do this and not goof it up, just PM me and tell me what part you need to have a little more explanation on and I will get right back to you.
Marty
Last edited: