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1G 1g AWD Fuel Pump Hanger AN Bulkhead Fitting Mod

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1g AWD Fuel Pump Hanger AN Bulkhead Fitting Mod

As I was eliminating fueling issues (still to be resolved) on my 1gb DSM, I decided to go ahead and run AN line and a AN bulkhead fitting to make sure I was getting plenty of fuel to the rail and injectors so I got out my spare hanger and went to work on this modification. It isn’t hard but there are a few small things to do to make sure that you have a flat surface to seal on.

First thing up was eliminating the original feed line. I cut the top of the line (on the outside) off as flush as I could and then used a step bit to drill out the line (yes, insert the drill bit into the line on the outside where you cut it off flush) until it is free to remove.
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Next, take your new bulkhead fitting and use the nylon washer as a template and draw a line around the inside of it onto the fuel pump hanger. I found that keeping it centered where the original line was works for 6AN but another mod is needed when you increase the feed line bulkhead fitting to an 8 or 10AN as I did and I will discuss that later. Use your step bit or use multiple bits, working up to the size of the inside of the sealing washer. This is the size for the fitting to go through and bolt up. Test fit the fitting until you have it just big enough for the bulkhead fitting to go through.
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Now look at the bottom (inside) of the hanger and you will notice that there is a reinforcing piece of metal that attaches the hanger to the top and you will need to get part of it out to get a flat surface for the inside sealing washer to seat on. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut notches out of that metal, making sure not to take out the spot welds that hold it to the top cover. After cutting carefully to make sure I didn’t cut through the WHOLE thing, top and hanger, I used a small chisel to “peel” the remaining metal out and off of the top.
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The part you cut and chisel out will look like this, giving you a smooth surface for sealing.
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Now all you have to do is clean the outside and inside of the new bulkhead fitting hole with a wire wheel or emery cloth, whatever it takes to make it clean so it will seal. After I cleaned it up I blew the whole assembly out with compressed air, since I didn’t want ANY small metal particles to end up in my tank or my new pump! Clean it good!
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Now insert your bulkhead fitting into the hole and make sure you have a sealing washer on the outside and the inside before putting the nut on the fitting to hold it in.
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I used a piece of radiator hose, cut to fit, to put around the pump to dampen the noise and use 2 hose clamps to hold the pump to the hanger. I used the bottom metal strap to hold the pump in place also, with a stock rubber damper on it also, although it isn’t entirely necessary to do that, it just keeps pump noise down and holds a stock pump in place because the stock pump slides up into a “bell” on the pickup tube (sorry no picture of it). I also installed a new hanger gasket from @DSSA ( JNZTuning ).
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Now slowly tighten up the nut on the inside that holds the bulkhead fitting to the fuel pump hanger top. I say do it slow so that the fitting doesn’t twist or move around, in case the hole you made is a bit to large and you are covering it with the sealing washers.
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Now to the part at the beginning where I said if you are running 8 or 10AN you will have a little more work to do. To not eat into the spot-welded area’s that hold the hanger together, you will need to work with a carbide or similar cutter in a drill or dermal tool. I enlarged my 6AN hole to the 10AN so that I could run a 3/8” hose from the pump to the barb on the bulkhead fitting, not just a 5/16” hose (which is what you get if you have a 6 or 8AN bulkhead fitting). To do that you have to just start enlarging only the part that is between the hole and the rim of the top of the hanger. You can’t just drill the hole bigger, the hanger will fall apart, so I used a 10AN bulkhead fitting washer and marked the bigger area so I could see where it would end up
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and then I “reamed” mine out towards that direction, trying hard to keep the hole circular. I did my best but did get a little bit aggressive in one area, and almost made it TOO BIG so work slow if you are going bigger and test fit each time until you have the perfect size for the bigger fittings.
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I ended up cutting off the tab that holds the little blue breather off at that point, so I had enough room for the fitting. Also, the picture shows 50psi fuel line, I took that off, since it was only a test piece, and replaced it with fuel injection line, good for 200psi, I believe.
If you have any questions about how to do this and not goof it up, just PM me and tell me what part you need to have a little more explanation on and I will get right back to you. :thumb:

Marty
 
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when i did mine i kept leaking out the plastic washer so i ended up using fuel safe RTV for the extra seal. it worked very well and a few others also had this issue reported it so just a note incase you find this then that is the resolve for you
 
Great write-up Marty! I'm just curious why you went all the way to -10AN, when the barb on that bulkhead is only 3/8? If the pump is initially pushing through a -6AN hole, is there benefit of going all the way to a -10AN line? And where is the write-up and p/n's for a fuel-safe, vapor-free pass-through for the wiring on the pump? I'm tired of using the old corroded stock wiring to get power to my pump!!! ;):D:p
 
Great write-up Marty! I'm just curious why you went all the way to -10AN, when the barb on that bulkhead is only 3/8? If the pump is initially pushing through a -6AN hole, is there benefit of going all the way to a -10AN line? And where is the write-up and p/n's for a fuel-safe, vapor-free pass-through for the wiring on the pump? I'm tired of using the old corroded stock wiring to get power to my pump!!! ;):D:p
HERE is the 2 wire bulkhead fitting Mike. I had to go to 10 just to get a 3/8" hose barb for the feed, anything smaller is only 5/16" and I saw a nice increase in initial pressure going to that bigger feed size.
Bobby, I don't have any leaks (well yet). Did you get both sides of the hanger nice and flat? I wonder how many people over look that piece of metal that wont let the bulkhead fitting seal? Its important and I am sure that YOU did that. If I find ANY seepage, I'll do the rtv thing also, so thanks!
 
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I'm a little surprised you didn't clean the rusty crud off both sides of the hangar top plate before doing all that work. I can see you did the underside at some point, which of course helps seal the main tank flange. I always feel like corrosion leads to more corrosion, especially with steel.
A note on pressure loss that I'll add, since others have commented. Similar to modeling electrical losses, fluid flow is modeled with lengths of pipe of given diameter and material (roughness), and "minor losses" to represent the various bends and fittings. It turns out that there usually is not too much pressure loss from incompressible fluids due to a few minor losses, such as a smaller fitting used to connect to a larger diameter long section of pipe. So it would still make sense to run larger fuel line from teh tank to the engine bay, even if you didn't want to hog out the plate to fit the larger fitting. There is some benefit in upsizing the fittings, to be sure, so it all depends on how much pressure/flow you're trying to convey.

One more musing that has occurred to me, is that with larger output fuel pumps, there is generally always a larger current draw. This essentially ends up producing more heat in the pump, which would cause increased vapors needed to escape the fuel tank. I know in performance applications most folks do away with the carbon cannister, which might be fine, but make sure there is somewhere for those vapors to safely vent; preferably away from ignition sources or the cabin. :sneaky:
 
Thanks @Mech Addict . I was scared I would hurt the old wiring on the outside (which I DID on the sending unit) so I didn't mess with it anymore. No fuel leaks or seapage anywhere. She boosted good again for one run but was getting lean (into the 14-15's) so now I am going to look at the tune again. I have messed with the car so much so many times that maybe I got a funky tune loaded instead of the one that car uses.
Anyway, I appreciate the assistance anytime I can get it!!! :thumb:
Marty
 
To follow up, after doing this mod, I can change a fuel pump and have the car running in 9 minutes. It is that easy now.
Thanks for following along!
Marty
 
You must not have all the “luggage compartment” stock interior, cause that would take 9 minutes to clear out, alone. I assume you have a way to monitor fuel pressure during operation: has it shown a more steady output at WOT? In other words , have your fuel delivery mods improved fuel delivery enough?
This is all way outside my car’s “build” envelope, so purely curious.
 
When I changed to the 10AN bulkhead fitting, I saw an increase in initial pressure but if she wont boost, I don't see it climbing like it should (but it won't without the boost reference going up).
I definitely like the 10AN fitting because it has a 3/8" hose to feed with instead of the 5/16". I then neck it down to 8AN or 6AN for the rest of the car.
 
As an update and finality to this project, my fuel pressure issue that I was having was all due to the "slime" I found in my gas tank, which I am 99% sure, is from the degradation of the E85 while the car was down for a transmission build and install. This substance was gathering on my FP sock and then the sock would suck closed, not allowing fuel delivery.
You can read about it HERE if you are interested. It took a whole year to figure out. Glad to report that it is resolved but I have a broken main shaft in the trans so another year gone by the time it is fixed and reinstalled, race season will be over.
Also, for a low profile bulkhead fitting, look HERE.
Keep up the faith and Happy DSMing! :thumb:
Marty
 
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