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2G Full Blown Dual Pump Hanger Modifications

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OK, so this article will detail the modifications I made to a Full Blown dual fuel pump hanger for a 2G GSX in order to fit a Walbro 450 alongside a Walbro 255 pump, and also to generally improve the overall design of the hanger.
I bought a Full Blown double pumper hanger used, and I wasn't happy with the sizes of the feed galley, nor the way they chose to pass the wiring through the top. The hanger itself is a nice CNC'd piece, and they chose to simply drill a hole, pass the wires through, and seal the hole off with some type of silicone. I've heard that this is a known leak point, and with my hanger being used, the sealant was a bit loose and didn't look like it would really seal.

First things first, the feed galley (right hand hole in first pic below) is a smallish diameter, with 3/8" NPT fittings for the feed and return lines, and 1/8" NPT fittings coming from the pumps. The hanger comes with 5/16" hose barbs to connect to the pump hoses.
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Influenced by some posts that Twicks69 made, I had the idea to drill out the pump feed holes to 1/4" NPT and use 3/8" smooth hose barbs with 3/8" hoses, drill the main feed galley to 11/16" (-10AN is 3/4") and have the feed side tapped for a -10 ORB fitting, since I have -10 lines from tank to rail. I gave the hanger to a friend who works at a machine shop, where he drilled/tapped the pump feed holes out as described above, enlarged the holes around those feeds to be able to get a socket down in there to tighten fittings, and drilled/tapped the -10 ORB threads in the end of the main feed galley. He drilled out the length of the main feed galley to about 1/2" (which is about the size of the inside of a -10 fitting), which I later enlarged to 11/16" with a cordless drill. This first picture is how I got the hanger back, with the 1/2" galley. He had to drill the larger countersink hole in order to get enough room for the chamfer that the o ring seals against. The second and third pics are of me drilling the feed galley to 11/16" and the final product.
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When he was drilling the relief holes for the socket access, the bit broke through the top of the hanger, right on the back of the big part where it says "Full Blown" on top. The feed galley is inside there. Little welding and grinding and it's good to go! This area is not pressurized, so I don't foresee any issues with this little mishap.
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With the feed side all set, I started looking at the wiring pass through. As mentioned above, I didn't like the cheap-looking sealant solution they used, and I also didn't like the fact that you were supposed to just solder or crimp the bare wires to the car's harness, which would necessitate cutting the wires if you ever needed to remove the hanger again. Best case scenario is you could buy connectors online to interface the wiring neatly, but you're still left with that leaky sealant on the top of the hanger itself! I searched around for a while and finally settled on a triple pump harness from Radium Engineering. I got the both the internal harness and the external harness for triple pumps. I couldn't get just any old bulkhead connector and wiring setup, because everything that goes inside the tank needs to be rated for extended, direct contact with gasoline and/or whatever fuel you're running. To this end, I also grabbed some PTFE heat shrink tubing from Amazon.com for my connections inside the tank. More on this later.



I spent a lot of time measuring and mocking up the placement of the wiring bulkhead, since it's fairly large and the whole hanger is pretty cramped with everything going on. I decided to take a router to the side of the chunk where the feed galley flows, and I took off about .20" to gain extra clearance for the wiring bulkhead. I later cleaned the roughness from the router up with files and sandpaper, all the way to 2000 grit and went over the whole top edge with an 1/8" roundover bit to make it look cleaner.
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Then I drilled a 1" hole from top to bottom through the top of the hanger. I made sure that the retainer nut for the wiring bulkhead would clear both the side of the feed galley and the big plastic ring that you screw down to seal the hanger to the tank. From there, I flipped the hanger upside down, used the o ring that comes with the wiring bulkhead to eye up the position, and drilled a 1.25" hole to countersink the bulkhead to clear the fuel level sending unit. I just drilled down far enough until I had about 1/16" or maybe 3/32" left of material for the top of the bulkhead to rest on and seal against. From there I had to shave off the corners of the bulkhead connector, because it was originally square with screw holes in the corners. Few minutes on the grinder and it slid right in! The very bottom of the bulkhead clears the fuel level sender just barely, but it's perfect!
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So, feed galley and fittings are set, wiring is set, now on to getting the Wally 450 pump to fit nicely next to the 255 pump. This hanger is originally made for twin 255 pumps, which are the same diameter all the way down the body of the pump. The 400 and 450 pumps are the same diameter as the 255 pumps, but the bottom 7/8" or so is much larger.

I had to cut off the bottom of the bracket that the pumps mount to in order to get the 450 pump to sit straight. I also had to cut the top lips off of the fittings that the pumps connect to, since the 2G tanks are so shallow. I did not use the fittings provided with the hanger, since I prefer the smooth barbs so you can remove the hose without destroying it. My hose barbs may have been a bit longer than the ones provided by Full Blown, so you may not need to shorten them. The tank is about 6 3/8" deep, so your intake socks/filters cannot be any farther than 6 3/8" from the bottom flange of the hanger. The pumps must sit as high on the bracket as possible, while still having room to get the clamps on the hoses. Not that I think you can get them too much higher, but I suppose you do want the socks on the bottoms of the pumps to be pretty much at 6 3/8" to make sure you get right to the bottom of the tank and make sure you can suck fuel even with a low fuel level in the tank. At the end of it, I had to cut off all but about 3/16" of the curved part of the bracket that the pumps mount to in order to get the 450 pump up high enough. The 450 pump also has two barbs on the outlet that I had to snip off as well (not pictured; sorry!). Just make sure your clamps are tight and it won't be going anywhere. Obviously, make sure to clean up any rough edges and clean out all the shavings before you do your final assembly!
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The 450 pump sock will not work because it hits on the screws holding the basket to the tank, so I used a sock from another 255 pump. The socks are different, but the intake holes are the same diameter and they seem interchangeable enough. Below is a picture of the pumps mounted, and the 450 has the stock sock on it. Please note, I had to swap the pumps around from how they are depicted here. See below!
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You have to grab some stainless steel Allen head bolts (M6 X 1.00) and replace the factory basket bolts to gain more clearance. I ground the heads down on the bolts I got, just to maximize space. You can see the height difference below. The second picture below the close up of the screws is what you see when you look into the tank. Those are the stock bolts you need to replace. Replace one at a time so the basket can't float around on you. Oh, and that piece on the left that I cut was clearance for the siphon.
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My 450 pump was a bit shorter than my 255 pump, so originally the socks didn't nest very nicely and I had to swap the pumps around.
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The intake on the 450 pump is offset more than the 255 pump, since the 450is wider at the bottom. This turned out to be good, since it left a bit more room for the second sock (on the 255) to nest in more comfortably. Even when you use the hanger for twin 255 pumps, the socks get jammed together tighter than these were.
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Don't forget to install the new siphon setup! My hanger didn't come with one, so I called Full Blown to find out the size of everything. The guy on the phone was very helpful and told me that all the brass fittings shipped with the hanger were 5/16". Looking at a bunch of pictures online, it looked to me like the outlet fitting was one size and the fittings between the brass tee and the hanger were smaller. I went with 1/4" fittings and hose between the hanger and brass tee, and a 5/16" outlet fitting on the bottom, returning fuel to the tank. I think this should also helop the venturi effect of the setup, since it gets necked down from 5/16 (fitting on top of the hanger coming from the drivers side of the gas tank) to 1/4" inside the hanger. For all your hoses inside the tank, make sure you ONLY use submersible fuel hose! It's about $20/foot, give or take. Also, use all stainless steel clamps and hardware inside the tank as well!



Time to connect the wires and finally mount everything permanently! You may have noticed above that my wiring bulkhead only has 6 pins. Counting two conductors for each pump, two for the fuel sending unit, and one for the low level light switch, we need 7 total conductors. Luckily, the black wire coming off the fuel level sending unit is a regular old ground, so I tied that in with one of the fuel pump grounds. It doesn't matter which, and it shouldn't affect the operation of anything. The Radium Engineering harness that I bought came with three Walbro 255 style connectors on it. I cut them all off and soldered the 450 connector to one pair, an extended 255 connector to a second pair, and the third pair I used for the positive wire for the fuel level sending unit (red) and the wire for the low fuel level light. That wire was green on my car, but the other sending unit I have here has a beige wire for the low level light switch. Just solder the wires up nice and pretty like, shrink your heat shrink tubing (I found out that PTFE shrink tubing seems to take quite a bit more heat to shrink than the usual stuff) , and do the final assembly on everything!
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Only thing I can think of here would be to make sure your fuel level float has free and full motion. Mine was hitting on my siphon setup at first, and I had to readjust.
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I had to cut the floor out a bit to get clearance for the large -10 fitting and hose, and also for enough room to get my Big Bertha adjustable wrench in there. I have a 3/8" hose for my fuel return, so that just slipped over the return fitting and got clamped down. The fitting to the side is for the connection to the driver's side of the tank, and I had to bend the hardline towards the front of the vehicle so the 5/16" hose wouldn't kink. Another hose clamp and you're set. I used some nice clamps from Radium Engineering that were stainless steel (good for inside the tank) and they don't cut into the hose like standard worm clamps do.
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You were also probably wondering how I was going to get that huge wiring connector under the factory fuel pump cover. I couldn't; the thing is way too tall. I could have tried to make a custom cover or something, but I don't have the tools to make one and have it look nice. I just took off the big plastic cover/strain relief and carefully bent the wires over to the side. The heat shrink they used goes all the way down, so everything is still covered and protected. You can see a little bit in this last picture that I put some weatherstripping meant for sealing exterior doors and such on the bottom of the fuel pump cover plate. This spaces the cover up a bit and also is wide, so I can seal over the cutout I had to make to get the feed hose on.
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Hopefully this was helpful to some people. I couldn't find too much info on the Full Blown hanger installation when I was searching, so I figured I'd try to contribute a little. Sorry I didn't cover the wiring more in depth here, but there are a couple other threads out there with this info already:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fuel-sending-unit-wiring-for-full-blown-dual-fuel-pump.467787/

I know I was reading another thread about fuel sending unit wiring, but I can't find it. It had great information posted by a Wiseman; Luv2Rallye, I think.
 
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