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Full Blown Dual Fuel Pump Install

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First off you need to removing the two bolts in the tank and replace them with the ones supplied in the kit. This is easily done if you do one at a time so the baffle does not float around. The tank is rather shallow. I used nitrile gloves and did this in about 3 minutes and got nothing on my hands :)
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You assemble the fuel pump assembly like the instructions say in the kit. I noticed it only fit when the 2 pump filters fit against the bottom of the aluminum bracket that holds the pumps.
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Remove the rubber gasket the seals the assembly in the tank.
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Now leaving the gasket out and after the fuel pump assembly has been put together, test fit it in the tank. I had to adjust the siphon assembly a little by rotating it so it would get out of the way of the baffle in order to install the assembly like shown.(NOTE: the assembly must be installed close to the angle show in order to have the -8 line clear the sheetmetal around the hole in the frame)
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Now install the rubber gasket and put the assembly in at the angle shown. If you are concerned about the float hitting the baffle wall it can be bent slightly(I did not have to bend mine, it worked like I have shown in the last pic).

Install the plastic ring the holds the assembly down. This does not have to be overly tight because the new assembly fits nice and tight in there.

Now is the part where two people are needed. You have two options here. The first will make removing the -8 an fuel feed line much harder in the future(There really should be no reason why you would need to mess with the assembly anyway once its in but thats not the point). The second way involves cutting a small section in the sheetmetal so you can loosen and tighten the straight -8 an swivel fitting(the first pic shows why you need to notch the hole in order to tighten the swivel)
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Now this pic shows how the lines need to be assembled in order to do no cutting or modding of the car. First attach the straight -8 or -6 an fitting to the line(which ever you are using). Now attach the straight swivel to the male connector that threads into the fuel pump assembly. Also, seal the threads with this Permatex thread sealer or some equivalent.
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Now run the line with the fittings installed from the bottom of the car up to where the fuel pump assembly is(basically just follow the factory routing of the fuel feed and return line). With one person in the cab to grab the line being fed up. The person in the cab threads and tightens the fitting into the fuel pump assembly while the person on the ground rotates the line so it doesnt twist up(you are doing this because if you remember you already torqued the swivel fitting on so now it wont swivel... Remember).

Next attach the the supplied 90 degree fitting with the rubber hose together just like how you attached the the braided stainless line to the straight swivel -an fitting. Again use thread sealer. Now thread this into the hole coming straight out the top of the fuel pump assembly. If you angle the fitting towards the driver side(like in the picture posted after this sentence) you will notice a rubber line that runs to the other side of the fuel tank. Remove the factory rubber line(its about 4" long), and then measure the required length needed to run your new line to where the old factory line connected, and cut it. Now stick the rubber line on where the old line was and tighten on a hose clamp.
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With that done the only line thats left is the return from the fuel rail. I dont have any pics of this because there are a few different ways to run this line. If you are doing a -6an return then you could just run a straight swivel onto the male fitting coming off the pump next to the fuel feed line. You could attach the return line like the line we just ran(attach a rubber hose to the factory hard return line and stick it into a -an fitting like we just did). Or you could simply remove the included straight fitting and thread a barb fitting in there and connect some rubber fuel line to it and run the other end to the factory hard fuel return line(something similar to the picture below).
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c114/Talontsi_95/barb-fittings.jpg


Now for the factory metal cover that goes over the fuel pump assembly. Do to the size of the new fuel pump assebly, the factory cover does not quite fit flush. To solve the problem, I put some weather stripping on the underside of the cover to make up for the gap(my factory weather stripping was rotted out anyway so it needed replace, this fuel pump setup gave me an excuse to do it). I used weather stripping like whats pictured below. Just pull off the paper on the back of the weather stripping to reveal the sticky glue, then stick it on cleaned underside of the factory metal cover. With it in place you can tighten down the cover with the factory screws and it should seal good(remember, dont thread them too far because the cover will not butt up perfectly against the car like it did from the factory. You are only threading into plastic so the holes can strip easily). If you dont like this method, you may be able to just hit the cover with a hammer in the two areas where it touches the fuel pump assembly. This may give it enough room to clear.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c114/Talontsi_95/DSM007.jpg



Make sure to secure the braided fuel feed line securely ever 4-6 inches to ensure the line does not move. Braided line is very abrasive and if it moves around alot can rub through the sheathing on wires.

The assembly should be wired so that one pump runs all the time and the other pump kicks on a certain boost level(you do this so you dont over run the factory siphon assembly like 2g's are prone to doing while running 2 pumps at idle and while cruising). Instructions should be included in the kit on how to wire the assembly, if not call Full Blown and they will tell you how to do it. I wont go into the wiring because I think anyone who has wired switches or things similar can do this wiring.

Not sure if the fuel pump assembly is up on the website yet. So if anyone is curious where I got it heres the info:
Full Blown Motorsports
8041 Nicollet Ave S
Bloomington MN, 55420
952-830-1399
www.Fullblownmotors.com
Contact: L J
AIM: Fullblownmotors
Email: [email protected]
Paypal: [email protected]
 
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