The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

How to fix master cylinder "pump up" on a 2g?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

daneatsv8s

10+ Year Contributor
31
0
Feb 24, 2009
St. Paul, Minnesota
Within the past few weeks, I have been noticing that my clutch pedal has become harder and harder to press down. It will get progressively worse as I am driving, with the pressure continuing to build, and then sometimes it will get some again. Here's my current clutch setup, keep in mind the ENTIRE setup has less than 2k on it:

-Stock remachined flywheel
-Stock clutch
-New master cylinder
-New slave cylinder

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the problem has anything to do with an improperly bled setup or leaky/faulty cylinders. I believe I am dealing with "pump up" from the master cylinder. As per the RRE website, I adjusted the bump stop for the clutch. In fact, I took the whole cruise control switch out, and the car is still doing the same thing. Does anyone have any first hand experience with fixing this? I also read briefly that it could potentially be the clutch fingers on the pressure plate failing for some reason. Does anyone know anything more about this?

Thanks in advance.
 
I had the same problem several years back. It turned out that I didnt grease the throw out bearing and input shaft good enough. It actually gradually got so stiff that the clutch fork snapped in half. Did you adequately apply grease to those parts?
 
Theres a rod on the front of the clutch pedal that you can twist around to allow the pedal to have more travel. Theres also a switch on this just disconnect, twist it, then reconnect the switch. Go underneath there and you'll see it.
 
I had this happen to me. Adjust the rod under the dash.
 
I would look for a kinked or crushed line somewhere... I don't think these cars have the pressure release valve that bmw's and some audi's have, else I would say check that.
 
I don't recall whether or not I greased the throwout bearing, but I suppose if this is the cause then there's not much I can do at this point. Although I did mention in my original post that while it does get stiff, once in a while (maybe if I pump it a few times) it does get easier to press down. This makes me think that it would most likely be a hydraulic issue like "pump up". I have tried adjusting the clutch already, I took the switch completely out, which would allow the maximum amount of pedal travel. I guess my next step will be to adjust the actual master cylinder rod and see if that makes a difference at all. Keep the suggestions coming guys.
 
I'm in the same position right now with my master cylinder. After I put a new rear main seal and did a whole bunch of work, the mc decided to leak and fail about two months later. The mc lasted about six years rebuilt so it lasted a considerably long time.

In any case I switched it out with one from O'Reily, and I'm getting "pump-up" on almost any setting I have it at. It's not as bad as it was because I adjusted the rod out, but say I'm driving in stop and go traffic with a lot of pedal use, it'll get stiffer. I NEVER had the issue after putting the clutch assembly back in with the oem mc, but now I do unfortunately.

I've adjusted the rod out slowly as I noticed the effects, but if I keep adjusting it, the pedal will be like pudding and would have zero play.
 
Took me a bit after that happened to me but if everythings functioning right and you have the right master cylinder, you should be able to adjust it and find the sweet spot...It was a pain with mine too, got frustrating but I got in after a couple hours fiddling with it.
 
One other thing to add, I read a post in here about how a guy spent hours trying to figure it out?
It takes 3minutes. If it takes you longer you're doing it wrong. This is probably one of the easiest fixes a DSM has.
 
Takes a couple hours when your drinking, eating, and not trying to work like a bat out of hell...if you can do it in literally 3 minutes I'd like to see that...I just said a couple hours because I was fiddling with other shit at the same time...It wasn't hard that's for sure...

This was also installing a new master and slave at the same time...not just the adjustment
 
Theres a rod on the front of the clutch pedal that you can twist around to allow the pedal to have more travel. Theres also a switch on this just disconnect, twist it, then reconnect the switch. Go underneath there and you'll see it.

This happened to me a few weeks ago. The lock nut on the shaft backed off, allowing the rod to spin, over extending it out of the adjustment which led to the destruction in the pictures. Over $1000 in damages once you add in labor for the shop to pull the trans. Fix it now, and hope nothing broke.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

DSM-Addiction
DSM-Addiction
 
Follow that video, I did on my 2g when I installed my 2600 and all new clutch components. Honestly it took me about 30mins but Im fat and its tight under the dash LOL.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top