khomza
10+ Year Contributor
- 50
- 5
- Jun 4, 2010
-
Fredericksburg,
Virginia
I tried searching the forums for this and found no result so I figured out how to do it from friends that had done this and I'll write it up for all of you that were wondering. This writeup is for the way I did it. Increase boost in small increments of 5-10 percent, I am not responsible for any damages (i.e. your engine, turbo, etc.) from trying to jump ahead and over-boosting
If you have DSMLink V3 and would like to do boost by gear with an electronic boost controller for less than $50 here's how!
1. Buy this part 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA Here's a link to it from Grainger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INGERSOLLRANDARO-Solenoid-Valve-6JJ52?Pid=search
Buy 2x 1/8" barb fittings such as http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PARKER-Hose-Barb-3HCC2?Pid=search
2. When they come in, cut the wires to your stock boost actuator and wire them in to the new one, it doesnt matter which wire goes where. Solder the connections, if they come loose they will leave the wastegate open and the turbo will spool forever. Connect the barb fittings on the lower hole on the side where there are two holes and connect this line to your boost source i.e. intake manifold. Connect the second barb fitting to the side where there is only 1 fitting hole and connect this to your wastegate. Mount the solenoid.
3. Download and install DSMLink early access v3.20.254
4. Upgrade your ECU firmware- In ECMLink at the top, click "ECU" then click "create firmware request" and save it to your desktop or where ever.
5. Download the latest firmware upgrade by using the link near the bottom of the home page of ecmtuning.com. Click the link and upload your saved file and it will give you a link to download the new firmware.
6. Click ECU again atthe top of the ECMLink program and click "Upgrade firmware" and use the file you just downloaded.
7. Now that you have the latest software and firmware click "ECU config live" and then click "Boost (WGS)"
8. If you have a MAP sensor already set up go to step 9, if not or EVEN IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE got to ECU inputs at the bottom of ECU Config Live and on the "Manifold pressure" set up your MAP, if you don't have one click the dropdown and select MDP, on the next "Map sensor type" dropdown menu select "omni power 4 bar".
9. Go back to "Boost (wgs)" and click "enable boost control" and select the "disable error correction" checkbox if it is not selected.
10. To change the boost use the second table on this screen and you can change the settings by rpm and gear, fourth and fifth use the settings fron the third gear configs.
0=closed or no boost, 100% is wide open and gives no restriction to spooling. I wont give baseline settings because each turbo is different. so move up in 5-10 percent increments or so until you get your desired boost for that gear, the first 2 or three boxes CAN be 100% so it will spool quickly but see how your car reacts!
**When you are hitting peak boost it is normal for the boost gauge to flutter a little at the peak, its's just how the electronic wastegate actuator works**
ADJUST SLOWLY, Do not overboost! I am not responsible for your settings, engine, turbo, etc. It's tune then test.
If you have a better way of doing this feel free to make corrections or suggestions. If you have questions, first re-read the write-up.
FYI, this is the same part that comes in the AEM truboost kit except it's controlled by dsmlink and not the AEM boost gauge. AEM literally just puts their sticker over the actuator
The chart below was my base tune for my 16g turbo, I believe it was running somewhere between 18-22 psi (it was a while ago). Now I'm using this method on an externally wastegated hx35 with a 12 lb spring and it holds up to 25 psi (which is the highest I've tested). Adding a stronger spring will reduce the percentages in the table.
If you have DSMLink V3 and would like to do boost by gear with an electronic boost controller for less than $50 here's how!
1. Buy this part 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA Here's a link to it from Grainger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INGERSOLLRANDARO-Solenoid-Valve-6JJ52?Pid=search
Buy 2x 1/8" barb fittings such as http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PARKER-Hose-Barb-3HCC2?Pid=search
2. When they come in, cut the wires to your stock boost actuator and wire them in to the new one, it doesnt matter which wire goes where. Solder the connections, if they come loose they will leave the wastegate open and the turbo will spool forever. Connect the barb fittings on the lower hole on the side where there are two holes and connect this line to your boost source i.e. intake manifold. Connect the second barb fitting to the side where there is only 1 fitting hole and connect this to your wastegate. Mount the solenoid.
3. Download and install DSMLink early access v3.20.254
4. Upgrade your ECU firmware- In ECMLink at the top, click "ECU" then click "create firmware request" and save it to your desktop or where ever.
5. Download the latest firmware upgrade by using the link near the bottom of the home page of ecmtuning.com. Click the link and upload your saved file and it will give you a link to download the new firmware.
6. Click ECU again atthe top of the ECMLink program and click "Upgrade firmware" and use the file you just downloaded.
7. Now that you have the latest software and firmware click "ECU config live" and then click "Boost (WGS)"
8. If you have a MAP sensor already set up go to step 9, if not or EVEN IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE got to ECU inputs at the bottom of ECU Config Live and on the "Manifold pressure" set up your MAP, if you don't have one click the dropdown and select MDP, on the next "Map sensor type" dropdown menu select "omni power 4 bar".
9. Go back to "Boost (wgs)" and click "enable boost control" and select the "disable error correction" checkbox if it is not selected.
10. To change the boost use the second table on this screen and you can change the settings by rpm and gear, fourth and fifth use the settings fron the third gear configs.
0=closed or no boost, 100% is wide open and gives no restriction to spooling. I wont give baseline settings because each turbo is different. so move up in 5-10 percent increments or so until you get your desired boost for that gear, the first 2 or three boxes CAN be 100% so it will spool quickly but see how your car reacts!
**When you are hitting peak boost it is normal for the boost gauge to flutter a little at the peak, its's just how the electronic wastegate actuator works**
ADJUST SLOWLY, Do not overboost! I am not responsible for your settings, engine, turbo, etc. It's tune then test.
If you have a better way of doing this feel free to make corrections or suggestions. If you have questions, first re-read the write-up.
FYI, this is the same part that comes in the AEM truboost kit except it's controlled by dsmlink and not the AEM boost gauge. AEM literally just puts their sticker over the actuator
The chart below was my base tune for my 16g turbo, I believe it was running somewhere between 18-22 psi (it was a while ago). Now I'm using this method on an externally wastegated hx35 with a 12 lb spring and it holds up to 25 psi (which is the highest I've tested). Adding a stronger spring will reduce the percentages in the table.
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