How long does it take to assemble engine?

[but]

I was wondering how long it takes to actually put the engine together having everything to do it. Is it possible to do it in one weekend? or is this something that will take a long time?

 

[Aproductions]

you can do it in a few nights

 

[99gst_racer]

Easily something that can be done in one day, if you have all of the parts, tools, and knowledge. If it's your first time, it will definitely take longer.

 

[but]

thanks guys. Its my friends first time and mine also,so we will just take our time.

 

[aspekt9]

Definitely take your time. Measure twice, assemble twice. I suggest doing a dry build first to make sure your clearances are correct. I go in depth, claying the pistons to check valve clearance, degreeing in the cams which you can only do if you have adjustable cam gears, checking deck height. I like a quench of about .040, any more than .060 and you're asking for detonation. Measure your oil clearances with a mic and bore gauge, or telescoping gauges if you don't have a bore gauge. Mic'ing will give you way more accurate results. Once mic'd I order the bearings I need and then check everything with plastiguage. There are a lot of measurements, I build an excel sheet to record everything down and to double check I'm within factory specs.

 

[but]

someone on here said I wont have to measure clearances after the block comes back from the machine shop. Also are there any good write ups on assembly that have step by step? I have seen some good ones on dissassembly and a few on assembly.

 

[aspekt9]

someone on here said I wont have to measure clearances after the block comes back from the machine shop. Also are there any good write ups on assembly that have step by step? I have seen some good ones on dissassembly and a few on assembly.

Did the shop assemble the rotating assembly for you? There's really good writeups in some of the build threads, check the blogs too, a lot are detailed with pictures.

 

[BLINKY619]

first time i did it, turned out good but i had forgotten that i had to retorque the head bolts after..!!!

 

[but]

Did the shop assemble the rotating assembly for you? There's really good writeups in some of the build threads, check the blogs too, a lot are detailed with pictures.

The shop did not assemble anything. My friend just gave him everything to balance and machine the block. we bought standard sized bearings.

 

[haswesley]

I am currently assembling a 6-bolt engine. It will take one day to assemble the engine and another day day to install it in the car. I find it much easier to install the block first, then put the head on after the block is in the car. Also, I always install the head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold as one unit. Those intake manifold bolts are a pain to get to on the back of the head when the head is installed in the car.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Yeah, certainly something you want to take your time doing. I think I could do mine in a weekend now after building my first engine, however.. I would take my time and doing everything correctly the first time. Do not get into a rush.. you'll regret it afterwards because you'll have wanted to do so much more with the engine that you didn't do.

Those intake manifold bolts are a pain to get to on the back of the head when the head is installed in the car.

+1 There. They are a REAL pain.

 

[but]

Thanks guys for all your help. Now if the machine shop did their work properly,we shouldnt have to measure for clearances correct? or should we measure just in case.

 

[haswesley]

It only take a few minutes to check clearances for yourself. No harm in checking twice. Better than finding out after a blown engine that the clearances were wrong.

 

[but]

It only take a few minutes to check clearances for yourself. No harm in checking twice. Better than finding out after a blown engine that the clearances were wrong.

very true thankyou.

 

[aspekt9]

In a perfect world, yes, you should be fine. I'd at least platigauge the journals to check the machinist's work.

 

[99gst_racer]

I find it much easier to install the block first, then put the head on after the block is in the car. Also, I always install the head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold as one unit. Those intake manifold bolts are a pain to get to on the back of the head when the head is installed in the car.

No way! That's definitely the more difficult method.

Try installing everything while the engine is on the stand, and then drop it in as a complete longblock. It's a 5 minute job to install an intake manifold with the engine out of the car. And it's a 10 minute job to time an engine without having a frame rail and wheelwell in your way.

 

[mach4g63t]

And it's a 10 minute job to time an engine without having a frame rail and wheelwell in your way.

... less than that.

+1 to building on the stand in dropping in a fully built LONG block rather than putting it all in piece by piece. And while most machinist are nice guys, they're humans. Plastigauge is cheap. Always check a machinist works if you can.

 

[99gst_racer]

... less than that.

I don't like to rush.

 

[snowborder714]

And it's a 10 minute job to time an engine without having a frame rail and wheelwell in your way.

... less than that.

Obviously you people don't let it sit for the 15 minutes after you torque down the tensioner pulley and rotating the engine.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I didn't do any of this! I hap-hazardly threw my piston rings on out of order, installed the pistons using a cut up coke-can and a hose clamp, hammered them down. Let the bolts hit the journals, slapped the Con-Rod ends on out of order with bearings installed, put the head on, torqued to 100LBS at once from the right side to the left, did my timing, didn't torque the tensioner, used a knife to line up my cam gears, and the car is running strong.

What's all this about taking your time? I did it in 3 hours IN the car and it's pushing 700HP.

... Yeah, don't do any of the above stated. Please.

Take plenty of time, go by the book, and make sure that you are ready for anything when you turn that key over.

 

[but]

I didn't do any of this! I hap-hazardly threw my piston rings on out of order, installed the pistons using a cut up coke-can and a hose clamp, hammered them down. Let the bolts hit the journals, slapped the Con-Rod ends on out of order with bearings installed, put the head on, torqued to 100LBS at once from the right side to the left, did my timing, didn't torque the tensioner, used a knife to line up my cam gears, and the car is running strong.

What's all this about taking your time? I did it in 3 hours IN the car and it's pushing 700HP.

... Yeah, don't do any of the above stated. Please.

Take plenty of time, go by the book, and make sure that you are ready for anything when you turn that key over.

anything meaning leaks and stuff?
Will it smoke at all or anything I should be aware of that is normal but might scare the crap out of me? Should I let it idle or start driving after i check for leaks?

 

[AWD92TalonTSi]

anything meaning leaks and stuff?
Will it smoke at all or anything I should be aware of that is normal but might scare the crap out of me? Should I let it idle or start driving after i check for leaks?

My engine start up procedure goes something like this: Pull MPI fuse and crank the engine over for 10 sec at a time 5-6 times. I'd like to see oil pressure on a real gauge - but on the factory gauge ehhh i dont know if it will register for cranking pressure. You can also remove the oil pressure sender and put an NPT hose barb in place and use an autozone hand pump to put force oil through and prime the engine.

One that either of those is done and I've cranked it so I know pistons and valves aren't in each others say I put the MPI fuse in and crank it to start. I let it idle for 2-3 min usually with a friend watching the underside of the car for leaks. Kill it at any sign of leakage. Fix if needed. Otherwise I let it idle up to operating temperature revving it a bit to make sure nothing is grossly wrong. Warm it up with the radiator cap off to burp the system.

Once it gets to temp and shows no sign of leakage I'll put the radiator cap on then take it for a spin and break it in with the motoman low -mid - high throttle break in procedure. Change oil @ 500 mi and use a paint filter to look for metal. You could also send in your oil for testing at a lab.

As far as initial start up... you'll see smoke burn off from lots of the external parts - radiator hoses, exhaust manifold cyl head - just any place you touched w/ greasy hands. The engine will probably smoke a little bit at initial start up - just burning up any assembly oil you used on the rings. Heavy smoking should be addressed though as it could be a head gasekt etc.

Use non-synthetic oil on your build as assy lube and don't use tooo much on the rings. I'm pretty sure I had a set not seat on me as I over did it. On my last road race honda build I used just enough to reduce sliding friction versus the previous "no such thing as too much lube".

Take as many pictures of your build as you can so if you ever second guess yourself you can just look at pictures rather than tear it apart because you're worried. And I'd check all clearances and record them.

Bryan

 

[but]

Thank you for everyones input. Any more to add would be great.

 

[angel1246]

It took me a year and a half to finally get my motor in and running... due to mediocre planning and money money money situation... just be patient and determine DONT QUIT !