Grip
10+ Year Contributor
- 79
- 0
- Feb 23, 2011
-
Greenville,
North Carolina
So I did some searching and have literally read every idle thread there is. My car was idling ~2500 RPM's and was hard to start and ran rough. I did the normal troubleshooting. BISS, ISC, etc. and when it came down to me throwing parts at the car I decided to try a different ECU. This ECU is out of a 91 and for sure is a 91 ECU. Heres where it gets weird. I put the ECU in expecting the worst. No tach, worse idle. Come to find out, the car now idles at 1000 RPM, and is WAY smoother.
Mind you this is with no pin swapping done at all. I have read at one point that you had to swap pins to make the tach work correctly, and I was looking for that thread and didn't seem to find it.
My questions are:
1. Should the tach work at all? - Mine does fine on idle, and jumps around when revved.
2. What problems should I be experiencing with a 91 ECU in a 90 car without swapping the proper pins.
The problem that I am having now that I wasnt having before the ECU swap is that the car jerks and kicks and acts like it has no power for 5 seconds at a time. It almost feels like the car cuts off and comes back every few seconds.
Mind you this is with no pin swapping done at all. I have read at one point that you had to swap pins to make the tach work correctly, and I was looking for that thread and didn't seem to find it.
My questions are:
1. Should the tach work at all? - Mine does fine on idle, and jumps around when revved.
2. What problems should I be experiencing with a 91 ECU in a 90 car without swapping the proper pins.
The problem that I am having now that I wasnt having before the ECU swap is that the car jerks and kicks and acts like it has no power for 5 seconds at a time. It almost feels like the car cuts off and comes back every few seconds.
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