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High idle Rev at start up. ROUND 2

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98mitsubishigst

10+ Year Contributor
1,526
16
Nov 17, 2008
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
THIS IS FOR MY DD 95 Eagle talon TSI!
Not my 97 Eclipse GST

I bought this car at my DD, and yes the motor got rod knock right after i bought it.. kid knew about it..

So, i replaced the clutch and the motor was high revving to redline! so i had to shut it off fast. Well, that motor a mile later after fixing it, which was the throttle plate was stuck open, spun a rod bearing from previous owner which i didn't know, he threw thick oil in..

Past week, i replaced the motor with a VR4 motor 6 bolt. (the motor was already swapped before)

Anyway, When i start the car this time, my idle shoots up to redline. So i took the throttle cable off, and made sure the plate was closed..
But now, it will only idle at 1700rpms if i pull the MAS...

IF i put the MAS in, it'll shoot to Redline!!

It sounds like the BOV is always shooting air out.. ill hear coming out of the air filter, WOOSH WOOSH WOOSH repetitive real fast...

Idk what it could be...
 
no ecmlink in this car.. its my daily. yes the motor ran fine in the other car, i don't see why that would make a difference about the idle. =/

which are the color wires the come out of the MAS suppose to be?
Why not pull the ECU on the car with Link and plug it into the daily to troubleshoot, its not just a tuning tool.

If you are 110% certain the throttle plate is closed then the only sensor that could cause your idle to do that would be the ISC, not controlling idle speed correctly. Do the resistance test on the ISC and if its good then you need to do a "down and dirty" BLT starting at the throttle body.
why is my post getting erased wtf are you running the same ecu
Because everything you've posted is "I don't know how to help you" and you're asking questions that are irrelevant to his problem. I, as well as all the other site staff, will delete anything that looks like post count fluff to get to your 30 posts. Post something helpful, not "I don't know the wire colors, sorry and by the way what ECU is in the car?"

:dsm:
 
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Why not pull the ECU on the car with Link and plug it into the daily to troubleshoot, its not just a tuning tool.

If you are 110% certain the throttle plate is closed then the only sensor that could cause your idle to do that would be the ISC, not controlling idle speed correctly. Do the resistance test on the ISC and if its good then you need to do a "down and dirty" BLT starting at the throttle body.

Because everything you've posted is "I don't know how to help you" and you're asking questions that are irrelevant to his problem. I, as well as all the other site staff, will delete anything that looks like post count fluff to get to your 30 posts. Post something helpful, not "I don't know the wire colors, sorry and by the way what ECU is in the car?"

:dsm:

pffft; SMDH at "1talon" haha. Thanks Gofer =)

But i may haveta do that.. honestly, I'm not 100% sure if my throttle is 100% closed or not.. but i feel as if its ether that, or a vacuum leak/boost leak.. i had the intercooler piping off..

ALSO; i put a new intake manifold gasket in this car when replacing the motor.. Do you think that would have something to do with it? i bought it off pep boys, and it looks as if its all seals.. maybe a bolt needs tightened down still??

Also, what is this "BLT" you speak of? hahah

Bacon lettuce tomato ;)??
 
Definitely do a BLT, you'll find out soon enough what the culprit is. After you verify that the throttle plate is COMPLETELY closed at idle, if thats the case then you know what to do.

Even if the car is your DD I still recommend pulling your Link equipped ECU and doing a quick sanity check on everything, especially after all the work you just did to it. Adjust the TPS to 0.63v and the ISCPosition to 30, that way you get it running as best you can on the stock ECU after you switch back.

:dsm:
 
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Video ^^ WTF is going on.. car will not idle, unless i pull the MAF plug off.. and it'll sit around 1700 and make this noise .. sounds like the BOV fluttering..

and by not idling i mean, it shoots to redline.. but this noise i believe has to have something to do with it..
 

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There is defiantly something up there.... Was that engine rebuilt? Could the cams be swapped by accident?
Is your BOV closed all the way at idle, or better yet, recirculate it to avoid that issue. Also, do you have a BISS screw still installed in the TB?
Possible crack in the IM, missing bolt, or a massive hole/!? LOL
Just throwing out some ideas.
 
You need two things for a running engine to rev on it's own...fuel, and air. Too much of one without enough of the other will result in the engine dying out, not revving on it's own.

If the throttle plate is 100% closed, you have an air leak somewhere....perhaps a bad FIAV or ISC. I'm guessing if the ECU senses that the engine is revving it will add fuel via the injectors no matter if it's seeing a change in the throttle position or not.

Also, what is this "BLT" you speak of? hahah

Bacon lettuce tomato ;)??
Correct. Before you attempt any type of repair, make yourself a f*ckin' sammich. There's no need to go about this on an empty stomach.
 
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I bought a 90 Talon recently; it had all the vacuum hoses disconnected, and it would idle surge, so I finally installed all of them just so I could start diagnosing the problem correctly, found out that there was no continuity in the ISC, so i got another one, which also only had continuity through one pair of connectors, instead of the two pairs, I messed with the BISS, got it to idle, but it would be high. I kept thinking it was a vacuum leak, even though it would hold the stock 10psi when I drove, but I guess I had a bad pump cause with the boost leak test it would only hold 5psi. Finally I saw the wire to that goes to the throttle stop I believe it is(tells computer throttle is closed) and it wasn't really put on there very well; I re-soldered it, also checked the voltage signal from the TPS and it was way off, fixed that and viola, idles like a beut. check the TPS... sorry for long story.
 
I just put a new throttle body on the old one wasn't closing fully.. This one is, I bolted it back on and it still is reving to 3000 but if I take the mas it stays at 2000. I'm just confused by the whooshing noise I keep hearing it's like my bov is always sucking or shooting out . About to just sell this car to be honest, clutch failure to a motor knocking now I can't get the idle.. This is rediculous
 
Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)
Idk if you have tried that out, or if that's even your problem at all, but it just doesn't make any sense for the BOV to be going berserk when you're not snapping the throttle at least, I don't believe the ISC can move that much air, have you tried disconnecting that to see what happens? maybe the guide will help... if its even in your ballpark, sorry wish I could help more, a data log would be helpful LOL, if you wanna go through that much trouble, its not much to switch the ECUs though
 
This may be a long shot but a while ago my car was having the exact same symptoms as yours. It would whistle at idle and the idle was out of control no matter what i did to the throttle body. The problem ended up bing the intake manifold. The manifold was cracked on two of the runners and they allowed air in and caused the idle problems and the noise at idle.

Im not saying thats your problem, but look for things along those lines....and do a BLT.
 
figured it out i hope..

Did a BLT, and the air was coming from BOV, fixed that, then the big leak was under manifold..
Turns out, i got the 95 talon tsi 7 bolt manifold gasket.. (smaller gasket)..

Since my Talon is 6 bolt swapped with a 1g manifold, i need the bigger gasket..

Which gasket do i need to get? like if i go to advanced auto tomorrow, which car should i have him look up? so i can order the 6 bolt gasket, you know what i mean?
 
Are you running the 1g intake manifold and head? You just need to ask for an intake manifold gasket for a 90-94 with a 2.0. All the 1g's with the 2.0 use the same gasket.
 
My motor is out of a 90 something Galant VR4, with a 1g intake manifold..

so i just call and ask for a 90-94 intake manifold gasket for a eclipse gst/gsx?

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^^ notice the gap at the bottom of the gasket? it doesn't cover nearly enough as it should!
 

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Ive never had any luck with local car parts stores having an IM gasket in stock, but at any rate, its a good thing you found the problem. I just hope that knocking sound disappears with the vacuum leak.

...and you were just going to up and sell the car. Reminds me of a buddy who told me he went to pick a 1g Talon up that hadn't started in years. Guy sold it to him for cheap and they troubleshot it down to no fuel at the rail, then no voltage at the fuel pump. He grabbed a MFI relay off a buddies DSM and drove the car off the PO's property while the guy stood there in shock.

Had you sold the car someone, somewhere would have been thanking you for the great deal on a DSM that ran like ass. :)

:dsm:
 
No No No, the knocking was from the last motor.. i bought the car with a 6 bolt swap.. it needed a clutch and all that jazz..

I replaced all that, and the last owner thru thicker oil in to mask the noise.. When it got to normal operating temp from driving the car, (i couldn't drive it because clutch was shot) i heard the knock..

I replaced it with my buddys vr4 6 bolt, and no more knock..

But it has this high idle =)

I ordered one from advanced.. going to be in tomorrow morning.

Thanks again guys especially you gofer, and as always, i love your car
 
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