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HELP, running rich, backfires, no power

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solson1041

10+ Year Contributor
110
0
Oct 25, 2010
Indianapolis, Indiana
Hi guys, two weeks ago I capped off the emissions lines on my throttle body and had my car die on me. When I got it home from autozone and tried to start it again, it was pumping out smoke and had almost no power, just ran terribly. knocked and backfired. Because this happened so clearly related to messing with my throttle body, I assumed it was the culprit with blown shaft seals. I ordered a used one from the classifieds and got it today hoping it would solve my problems.

The car runs as bad as it ever has, plus, this throttle body doesn't have an idle screw..

All signs are pointing to a boost leak, the car runs kinda okay when it starts to boost. I would assume because the engine is finally getting close to enough air under some boost.

What can I do? I don't have the capabilities for a boost leak test, but at this point, I don't even think that would be necessary, it's pretty clear that i'm leaking boost, can someone shed some light on this?

Thanks so much.
 
Did you follow a specific guide when you did the vacuum/emissions delete?
 
Did you follow a specific guide when you did the vacuum/emissions delete?

I thought I did, but clearly I can't be sure since right after I tried it I started having all these problems.

I actually couldn't find any more of a guide than what is in the upgrade path section of the site, I went to autozone and bought the right sized rubber caps, pulled off the hoses, and put on the caps for the four hoses on the TB. I only had the TB capped though like a dumbass, I planned on doing it once I got home because I realized the other sides of the hoses were much harder to get to and I didn't want to be under my car at the Autozone parking lot.

I guess this is where I went wrong then..
 
Hahah. Yes. The other ends of those hoses run to several areas of your engine including your Fuel pressure regulator, various Solenoids, and intake systems. You need to rip ALL of those lines out, cap everything off, and make/buy a blockoff plate for your EGR as that is now non-functional. It's about 30 minutes of work. I do this with every DSM I own.
 
Hahah. Yes. The other ends of those hoses run to several areas of your engine including your Fuel pressure regulator, various Solenoids, and intake systems. You need to rip ALL of those lines out, cap everything off, and make/buy a blockoff plate for your EGR as that is now non-functional. It's about 30 minutes of work. I do this with every DSM I own.

okay, I can live with that... should that solve my problems then? I already have the EGR blocked off for the record. But if I follow the hoses back and cap off where they go, I should be alright?

Thanks so much for your help btw.

Edit: That doesn't really explain why when I put the lines back on the way they were that it didn't start running right again though?
 
After all of these sensor are blocked off it should clear up your problem. I did this on my DSM and it also cleans up your engine bay :) but just make sure that they are all capped off or eliminated otherwise the ECU will read the wrong information and won't run right.
 
You could have an issue that is being caused either way. It could be present with them hooked up correctly or as they are not, uncompleted. The first step here is to complete where you left off. You need to have only a few hoses running.

1 : From Intake Manifold to stock Fuel pressure Regulator
2 : From Intake Manifold to Blow Off Valve
3 : From Intake Manifold to Waste Gate
4 : From Intake Manifold to back of Valve Cover
5 : From Side of Valve Cover to Intake Snorkel or Catch Can

;) Hope this helps. Once you have the emissions delete completed, we'll go from there.
 
You could have an issue that is being caused either way. It could be present with them hooked up correctly or as they are not, uncompleted. The first step here is to complete where you left off. You need to have only a few hoses running.

1 : From Intake Manifold to stock Fuel pressure Regulator
2 : From Intake Manifold to Blow Off Valve
3 : From Intake Manifold to Waste Gate
4 : From Intake Manifold to back of Valve Cover
5 : From Side of Valve Cover to Intake Snorkel or Catch Can

;) Hope this helps. Once you have the emissions delete completed, we'll go from there.

Good plan, I guess I should have done this when I first started having problems. Especially considering how this happened right as I started deleting emissions, it'd have to be one hell of a coincidence for something else to be causing problems.

I'll try to knock that all out now. Thanks guys.

Edit: Soo, I did that and I'm still in the same boat... does my car just need some time to adjust or what? I'm at a loss now... did I damage something real when I left those lines hanging? what should I do guys?
 
Hey, I need some help here, I'm on the verge of selling the car to a junk yard and buying a scooter. It continues to run worse and worse, is there something I'm missing? Car has absolutely no power and just won't run. knocks and backfires, I'm at the end of my rope and I need some help.
 
Hey, I need some help here, I'm on the verge of selling the car to a junk yard and buying a scooter. It continues to run worse and worse, is there something I'm missing? Car has absolutely no power and just won't run. knocks and backfires, I'm at the end of my rope and I need some help.

Have you done a boost leak test? Could be a blown coupler somewhere.
 
Your first post said you got a used throttle body and that it didn't have a idle speed screw. Did you remember to put one in? If not, that could be most if not all of your problem.

I went back to the original TB deciding the that shaft seals were not blown. I have not done an actual boost leak test, I suppose I need to get that done asap, I just don't have an air compressor or anything like that out here at my college apartment.
 
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