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Help me get from 12.0 to 10.xx

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wvturbo2

15+ Year Contributor
1,164
2
Jan 25, 2006
Huntington, West Virginia
Alright last season ended with a disappointing 12.0 pass. I think the car is very capable of a 10 sec pass. Replaced slipping clutch with twin disk and am replacing leaky intake manifold. Now i need helping figuring out what slick to go with. I've been reading and trying to figure out if i need 24's or 26's. What will i be able to fit under the 1g without coilovers. Car is a 1g awd lowered on eibach pro kit. Car is/will be in the 500-550 whp range. Any help or ideas would be great. I'm considering buying a 15x7 rota slipstream for whatever tire setup i go with. I was going to add this to another thread, but didn't want to high jack it. Thanks for the help
 
Where's your current timeslip? What exactly are you looking for help with? This looks like the kind of thread the moderators shut down.

I just tried to post the time slip.
1.9 60 foot
7.92 1/8th @ 94.3mph
12.02 @ unknown bike knocked out trap.

This possibly will get shut down, but that's fine i'll just pm the people that i figure will be able to help me.
Basically what size dot slick can i fit on the car without modifications. Do I need to goto coil overs to fit the slicks? If so will cheap ones work or do I need something some what nicer like k pros? I have been told 26's but also told 24's so I'm trying to give some specs on my car and get help figuring out what i do and don't need, because things are starting to add up and I don't think somethings are necessary. Really this thread could be named help me with tire selection, because that is the main thing i need, but more questions might pop up.
 
That's what I thought but slicks are gonna make things way easier. I can't get better than 1.7 60 foot and avg a 1.8 to 1.9. Id really like to bring that down. I'm running a 245 50 16 right now
 
Slicks are not going to knock off 2 secs. A good street tire and you will be fine and knock out 2 birds with 1 stone. Unless u get a set for a great price

and your 1/4 trap speed would tell us a lot
 
That's what I thought but slicks are gonna make things way easier. I can't get better than 1.7 60 foot and avg a 1.8 to 1.9. Id really like to bring that down. I'm running a 245 50 16 right now

Are you spinning all 4 wheels now?
 
The 12.5 pass was 116 or 117mph. This pass felt fasster. Yes I know tires won't take me down two seconds. I'm wanting to work on the 60 foot. My tune was off clutch was slipping and intake manifold had a leak for that pass.

An expensive street tire will cost me as much as a set of quick time pros. Around 800 bucks right? So why not get the stickiest tire

Are you spinning all 4 wheels now?

Yea pretty violently in first.
 
I have the pro kits and the 26" hoosier fits fine. Your 1/8 mile mph doesn't look bad I would say it should be somwhere in the 120's in the quarter. Hitting 10's even with a mid 120mph trap will not be easy. Have you tried to lower the 2 step so it doesn't blow the tires off of the line? Maybe try to find that happy medium.
 
How have you dynoed 450whp but cannot get out of the 12's?

Curt Brown's 16G car dynoed 499whp (with more torque than yours) and ran 10.33 in the mid 130's.

Most 10-second cars either need a ton of power (600-650whp+) or power in the 500-550whp range with a good bit of weight reduction. Get your race weight down to around 2800 with you in the car and you'll suddenly become much faster.
 
with 440whp and your car weight around 3000lbs you should trap anound 120-125.you should work on that 1.9 60ft first.your 60ft should be no slower than 1.6x.i would say you can run 10.9x with 440whp
 
if you keep the stock 16in rims and put hoosier 26x9.5x16 QTPs that should help your traction quite a bit. You better start looking for extra drivetrain parts though. You may need to roll the fenders a little bit depending on how low the car is but a lot of people run them. Start gutting the car if you want to go 10s on your setup. Its pretty tough to go from 12s to 10s though.
 
Car is completely gutted no interior only dash two sweats and roll cage. We even removed sound deadening. I'm getting carbon hood to reduce a lil more weight. The main reason I didn't break 12s is due to time. The tune was still off during the pass soon as I shifted to second gear it missed for a second then picks up and goes. Once I get tune lined out the power should be there for high tens. Anyway we messed with 2step trying to find happy medium we ended up raising it back up a bit because it did better spinning than bogging. I'm on rx7 wheels right now. Might get a set of 15 inch rotas for drag wheels. Drivetrain is basically shep stage 3 tranny 4bolt all poly drivetrain parts solid rear diff bushing and front and back solid aluminum motor mounts.
Here is the video you can definately notice the cutting out in second gear.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlaR88yZmUk
 
I have the pro kits and the 26" hoosier fits fine. Your 1/8 mile mph doesn't look bad I would say it should be somwhere in the 120's in the quarter. Hitting 10's even with a mid 120mph trap will not be easy. Have you tried to lower the 2 step so it doesn't blow the tires off of the line? Maybe try to find that happy medium.

use this guys wheel setup. If you get a 15 you're gonna have to run slicks. QTPs are DOT radials, you can run them on the street too. If your car is gutted and still running 12s I think you're gonna have to uprade turbos to get into the 10s even with the 2nd gear issues.
 
First get that clutch installed, Cut weight about 300 more pounds, that will help you get out the hole and give you a better ET. And get a none leaking manifold, You have the tools to get into the 10's. Seriously you don't really need the slick on a AWD car to run 10's. But it sure looks nice when you come out in a AWD car:D
 
There is no way to lose 300 more pounds. I seriously don't think you understand how much has been stripped out of the car. I have a bolt on 35r. i meant to weigh the car last year, but never got around to it. I'd like to get as much out of current turbo as possible before i upgrade. I think the car has a bit more left in the tune considering the intake manifold is leaking and clutch is slipping. What would be advantage of QTP. The only that i can think is ill qualify for some street car only races at local events. I won't be running them on the street. People only want to run me from a roll so I don't need that. This car isn't a DD the tires will only be put on when i goto track

Might as well get slicks or dot slick and see what this turbo can do before i upgrade. Once I upgrade i'll go decent size bigger. Here is another question how much would it help me by switching from mitsu bolt on to a t3 exhaust housing ?
 
Well, I'll give you my opinion (though it may not match others). From what I see (and thanks for posting up that video), I see no problem with putting slicks on. Yes, I have seen 10's done on regular street tires, but the slicks will help you out immensely. Also, put that new clutch in. I'm not real fond of your launch. It may be in slippage of both tires and clutch, but it also may be in your technique. Shoot us your technique and two step levels.

It sounds like (from your description), that you have taken out more than enough weight for a 500-550whp AWD car to make 10's.

Slick choice 24.5's with the 15's. No need for 26's. You aren't making enough power to take advantage of the 26's and the 24.5's at your power level would be ideal. I like MT's. Don't have to burn them up to warm them up.

I'm also not fond of the squat of the car (once she hooks up) on launch. Can you get tighten up the back end a little?

Also, what are your torque numbers and do you happen to have a dyno sheet?

MB
 
Is it me or does that thing sound like it's struggling to rev out in second and third? I don't know if it's the low boost, or if your timing curve is very conservative...but it sounds like your clutch is slipping badly or you're pulling a trailer.
 
Well, I'll give you my opinion (though it may not match others). From what I see (and thanks for posting up that video), I see no problem with putting slicks on. Yes, I have seen 10's done on regular street tires, but the slicks will help you out immensely. Also, put that new clutch in. I'm not real fond of your launch. It may be in slippage of both tires and clutch, but it also may be in your technique. Shoot us your technique and two step levels.

It sounds like (from your description), that you have taken out more than enough weight for a 500-550whp AWD car to make 10's.

Slick choice 24.5's with the 15's. No need for 26's. You aren't making enough power to take advantage of the 26's and the 24.5's at your power level would be ideal. I like MT's. Don't have to burn them up to warm them up.

I'm also not fond of the squat of the car (once she hooks up) on launch. Can you get tighten up the back end a little?

Also, what are your torque numbers and do you happen to have a dyno sheet?

MB
Thank you the response. As for the dyno sheet I don't have one for the last dyno run. The 450 run I do. The other one we got on the dyno made 4xx at 70% throttle clutch was slipping terrible. Got off because we realized nothing could be done on dyno. Went to street to attempt to tune. We were still tuning on the pass in the video it has miss and timing still was being messed with that was the last pass i got in of season after that i completely cracked a runner on the intake manifold.

Ok technique on the launch has been to slip the clutch out of hole then completely let out. Not to dump clutch. Its been a little while, but I think the 2step was set somewhere around 5,200 to 5,300. Below that would bog pretty bad. Going into second gear the car starts missing for a second then picks back up. I can't notice the clutch slip on street like you can on dyno. After doing some talking I will need to go with a 16 dot slick. due to a majority of racing I do is for street legal cars, so if you have a suggestion based off that let me know. I assume QTPs.

As for the squat I have gr2's shocks up front due to lack of money at the time and agxs in the back the agx's are turned all the way up and the springs are eibach pros. I'm assuming I need something with a higher spring rate. Any suggestions for that under 700 bucks would be great.
 
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...but it sounds like your clutch is slipping badly or you're pulling a trailer.
Right on Justin :thumb: Agreed.

WV, this is an easy one. Couple O' few fixes and as long as you are a decent driver, you'll be in the 10's.

First and foremost, install the clutch, LOL. Can't miss it in the launch (I wasn't sure if that was your foot or the clutch - its actually a little of both I think - but definitely from what you say the clutch). Justin picked right up on it. That alone will do bunch.

I like to see dyno sheets to look at torque curves etc. to help with shift points. But at this time we can't address that anyway until you fix the clutch and the tune.

For the suspension, its hard to tell from that distance but the front seems a little floppy. Its good to have the front end suspension loose enough so the contact patch in front stays down, but not too loose so that you get the nose dive effect like you have on the 1-2 shift (which reminds me, if you haven't been doing it, you want to no-lift shift. I can guarantee if you do that it will add tenths from "granny shifting".

As for your launch, with 500 ponies and a drive train that can take the hit, you're coming out of the hole a little low. But until you get a clutch in there, its hard to say where you'll be (there's also the question of boost level at the hit. But again, can't work that until you got a clutch). I'm guessing you are slip launching because of the clutch. Slip launch is for us FWD guys :p Hit it hard and run, with AWD.

I can absolutely see tens in your ride with the few fixes just noted (again, assuming the driver - that's you - is capable).

MB
 
Honestly dude it seems like you answered your own question.
Get a new clutch, and get a good tune.
 
So with twin disk should I just drop the clutch and stop slipping it off the line? I'll take any advice on launches etc. Next year I will be going to no lift to shift. So on the suspension should I stay with the eibachs or look to change out to another brand ? I'd imagine with some slicks i could raise the launch limit a decent amount I assume.
 
First and foremost, install the clutch, LOL. Can't miss it in the launch (I wasn't sure if that was your foot or the clutch - its actually a little of both I think - but definitely from what you say the clutch). Justin picked right up on it. That alone will do bunch.
Just seems to me like the car is in 2nd and 3rd too long to be making that much power....and if it is making that much power, it's not getting to the ground.

Compare how long Dave's car is in 2nd and 3rd during this pass to yours; and he's revving to almost 9k:

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So with twin disk should I just drop the clutch and stop slipping it off the line?
If you drop the clutch with a twin-disc, slicks, and launch control enabled, you're going to leave some driveline parts at the starting line.

Practice launching on a back road somewhere; get the hang of it, then go to the track and practice more. Launching at the track is 100% different than launching on the street, although having an idea of how your car launches when you get the track gives you a slight advantage.
 
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I was going to say the same thing. It doesnt seem like you have the power that you are making in the video. Even my car runs through the gears faster than that. Definitely get that clutch installed, the difference will very noticeable. Im used to my act2600 and when I drove my friends twin-disk equipped 1g, it was very different even to drive on the street. Practice practice practice.
 
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