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Help! experiencing transmission problems

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Racejunkie05

Proven Member
42
0
Nov 13, 2012
South central, Pennsylvania
To start ill give you a little history on the car. I purchased the car back in october of last year. It had a fully built 2.3 longblock with a td05 20g. I ended up breaking the 3/4 sleeve shortly after. So i sent the transmission to ohio for a stage 3 rebuild by shep. I upgraded to the Evo3 input shaft and 1st gear and went with a welded center differential. Since the clutch was pretty much trashed i replaced it with an act 2600 with 6puck unsprung disc. I did not shim the pivot ball since the clutch fork seemed to be right in the middle of the opening, if not slightly to the right. i have about 8k miles on it and sometimes experience slight grinds when up shifting to 4th. If i baby it i can "usually" get it to go without grinding. Down shifting to 4th is always a no no, so i dont ever do that. Ive adjusted the clutch pedal, flushed and bled the hydraulic system and still no luck. It seems to be more of an issue on a hot afternoon rather than a cool evening. Its the only gear i have issues with other than reverse can be tight at times. i emailed shep and he told me my clutch must be dragging. Im literally at my wits end. I dont feel like pulling the trans but it seems like i have no other choice. Maybe the master cylinder could be the culprit? i wouldn't think it would have anything to do with the reverse light sensor since it doesn't work? Any help would be much appreciated.. thanks!
 
Did you properly adjust the master cylinder pushrod for the clutch?

Yes, I screwed the rod clockwise till it would no longer allow the slave cylinder to self adjust, then i back it off a quarter turn counter clockwise until it would allow the slave to travel. The slave currently has about an inch of self adjustment travel if you push on it.
 
hello, shep stated you probably have "drag" but did you test for yourself?
- are your slave OR master leaking?
-also I don't see in your first post if you had the flywheel resurfaced to spec? i think between .608-.610 stepheight for ACT?

1st gear clutch depressed and rev to 7100+ if it budges yes it's definitely drag.
I had a act 2100 in my car and I could not get it to be drag free, tried everything had shimmed pivot ball, fork slightly towards driver side, clutch master/slave replaced new and clutch adjusted properly and it still dragged at 6800RPM.
-You might need to try a small shim and how far does it engage from the floor?

-Not saying you should do this but I put a OEM clutch in and guess what it engages correctly with no drag past 7200+ rpm, still have pivot ball shimmed with small washer, and the fork is toward driver side:hellyeah:
 
hello, shep stated you probably have "drag" but did you test for yourself?
- are your slave OR master leaking?
-also I don't see in your first post if you had the flywheel resurfaced to spec? i think between .608-.610 stepheight for ACT?

1st gear clutch depressed and rev to 7100+ if it budges yes it's definitely drag.
I had a act 2100 in my car and I could not get it to be drag free, tried everything had shimmed pivot ball, fork slightly towards driver side, clutch master/slave replaced new and clutch adjusted properly and it still dragged at 6800RPM.
-You might need to try a small shim and how far does it engage from the floor?

-Not saying you should do this but I put a OEM clutch in and guess what it engages correctly with no drag past 7200+ rpm, still have pivot ball shimmed with small washer, and the fork is toward driver side:hellyeah:

Neither the master nor the slave are leaking. The car has a fidanza aluminum flywheel. I brought my calipers home from work to check the step when i was installing the trans and it was in tolerance at .609

Ive tried the the drag test with the tires on the ground, but i haven't tried it with all 4 wheels off the ground. Not to mention I can only rev to 5k cause of my launch control. The previous clutch was an act 2100 full face. Id love to have the feel of an oem, but it would never hold up with all the passes my car sees at the track.

Also The clutch engages right as the pedal is all but completely released. Correct me if im wrong but im fairly certain the master can go bad without leaking, but usually the slave will leak when going bad.
 
Neither the master nor the slave are leaking. The car has a fidanza aluminum flywheel. I brought my calipers home from work to check the step when i was installing the trans and it was in tolerance at .609

Ive tried the the drag test with the tires on the ground, but i haven't tried it with all 4 wheels off the ground. Not to mention I can only rev to 5k cause of my launch control. The previous clutch was an act 2100 full face. Id love to have the feel of an oem, but it would never hold up with all the passes my car sees at the track.

Also The clutch engages right as the pedal is all but completely released. Correct me if im wrong but im fairly certain the master can go bad without leaking, but usually the slave will leak when going bad.

to test with tires on the ground you must turn off launch control in Link(assuming you have link) and then rev to 7100+ rpm, I understand yours wouldn't hold up to the passes but mine is almost stock only on 15 lbs.

edit: can you get a picture of your clutch fork where it sits? if everything checks out you might want to try a small washer as a shim for under the pivot ball to get the rest of the disengagement for 4th and reverse( 4th is the only gear that grinds? if clutch was not getting enough disengagement most gears would grind not just one, if you shim it and still grinds it might be your synchro even though its new) just a thought...

your clutch:
top of pedal
-engagement <- yours? if so that's too high up it should be down a little
-
-
-engagement <- preferably
-
-
floor
 
Last edited:
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