Head Bolts Not Torquing

[fourgsixthree33]

Alright so I put in a rebuilt short block in my 95 Talon TSi a couple of weeks ago. When we put the head on, a few of the head bolts gave us problems. They wouldn't torque properly. I don't remember what psi we were on or what stage we were in but we had some problems.

The torque wrench would click, then when checking them, no click. They just kept turning. We eventually got it right.

After the engine was installed and ran, we tried retorquing them. Same thing, most of the time they would not click. We were torquing them correctly and at the right torque.

They would torque at a certain psi that was lower than the final torquing stage. They just keep spinning. We didn't want to break a head bolt so we didn't keep turning. The torque wrench used is used by a GoodYear Service center. A friend works there and borrowed the torque wrench.

I am probably going to get my ass chewed out, but these are used head bolts. Only torqued once, low low miles, and a very well reputable member from here gave them to me.

Compression is 150 across the board. The car smokes blue quite a bit, but not all the time. One pull it will, next pull it won't smoke at all. There is no sign of oil and coolant mix. Not sure if the smoke is related to my head bolt issue or not.

The car runs good, just not sure what's going on with the head bolts. I go through about 3/4-1 quart of oil per week. Also, the head gasket used was bought from Auto Zone.

Thoughts on what could cause the head bolt torquing problem?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Could be debris in the block interfering with the torque, use bolts, i never used bolts unless they are arps, replace them with new ones less than 100 bucks for a set.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Thanks for the reply. There was a lot of junk in the head bolt holes. We cleaned it up the best we could. Even re-tapped some of the bolt holes. Should I buy ARP's and install them one at a time without removing the head? Or remove the head?

 

[92AWDHX40]

I alway installed mine with head off, thats just me, i never put one in at a time with the head on not, saying it cant be done, idk.

 

[BogusSVO]

What short block are you running? 6 bolt? 7 Bolt?

When was the last time the torque wrech was calabrated?


About 1qt of oil in a week? How many miles do you drive in a week?

 

[romeen]

Thanks for the reply. There was a lot of junk in the head bolt holes. We cleaned it up the best we could. Even re-tapped some of the bolt holes. Should I buy ARP's and install them one at a time without removing the head? Or remove the head?

You don't have to remove the head to install ARP's. Just install them one at a time following the correct sequence and torque to spec before moving on to the next one. Put the washers in place first then install the stud. You can slide the washer down the shaft of a long screwdriver or something to get them positioned down in the tight spaces.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I knew there was a way you could do that..

 

[19jdmdsm91]

I agree make sure that torque wrench is good man, and definitely remove heads and add the ARP's makes for a better "sandwich" of the head gasket.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

What short block are you running? 6 bolt? 7 Bolt?

When was the last time the torque wrech was calabrated?


About 1qt of oil in a week? How many miles do you drive in a week?

7 bolt

Not sure but it is used at a GoodYear Sevice Center so I am assuming it is recalabrated regularly.

I guess a couple hundred miles a week. Sometimes more. No more than 400 miles a week.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

The torque wrench is less than 2 months old. I also used another torque wrench with the same problem. I thought it was from stretched bolts. That makes the most sense. This isnt the first cylinder head ive put on either. This is probably the 12th one , 2nd one with the torquing problem (had similar problem on a different block). It will only torque correctly to 30 ft lbs, anything over it will not torque correctly.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

^^My friend that helped put the head on. He's the one from GoodYear.

 

[kchaazz]

The factory 7 bolt head bolts are "torque to yield" and arent supposed to be reused, so perhaps that was your problem.

 

[RamenPride]

I've heard that 6-bolt head bolts can be re-used, but not the ones for a 7-bolt. I would just get ARP's.

 

[romeen]

I thought it was from stretched bolts. That makes the most sense.

Agreed. The 7 bolt uses torque-to-yield type head bolts (I think that's what they're called ?). Definitely intended for one time use only.

Edit: I'm slow^^

 

[BogusSVO]

One drop of a clicker style torque wrench can thow it way off, I was just asking to make sure it was not one thats 10 years old and abused.

200-400 miles a week and a quart of oil, that is an issue all in itself, chek rings with a leak down tester, and inspect the turbo.

I am going to parrot the ones above me and say get some ARPs and swap them out.

When you pull the bolts, look for discoloration/streaking on the shaft of the bolt also.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Agreed. The 7 bolt uses torque-to-yield type head bolts (I think that's what they're called ?). Definitely intended for one time use only.

Did not know this. Makes sense.

Could my blue smoke be from the head bolts not being torqued?

 

[BogusSVO]

Edit: I'm slow^^

I am slower....

 

[romeen]

Did not know this. Makes sense.

Could my blue smoke be from the head bolts not being torqued?

If you've got good compression in all 4 cylinders then I wouldn't think so. BogusSVO can give you a more reliable answer though.

I would consider valve stem seals and turbo seals.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

The turbo does have shaft play.

 

[LiquidX]

The turbo does have shaft play.

Here's your sign.

Radial, axial or both?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Both.

 

[LiquidX]

Time for a new turbo or a rebuild

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Definitely not rebuilding a t-2small. So this would explain my oil loss and blue smoke? Even at idle?

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Yes aj. Bad seals will do that. I told you to hit up mike for that 14b