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having engine issues 4g63t

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Derek Goodreau

Proven Member
165
6
Jun 5, 2014
North Adams, Massachusetts
just bought a gsx, it has top end noise at high idle. having trouble keeping car running. i crank it over and it starts like 2 out 5 times or so, when running it idles at like 400rpms when clutch is engaged, 900 in neutral with clutch disengaged. and it wants to stall. when i drive it, it doesnt make it more than a mile because it revs loud but has very slow acceleration. when i accelerate as rpms reach about 3 or 4k there is a ticking noise that happens and CEL turns on, when i let off the tic goes away and so does CEL. Need help please! new to 4g63t.
 
Do you have link? Sounds like the check engine light turning on and off could be that it's set to come on when you reach a certain degree of knock. Does your stock boost gauge also rise when you get the check engine light? Sometimes it's set to record knock by owners with link.
 
This maybe a weird question and may not even be the fix, but you said "when i accelerate as rpms reach about 3 or 4k there is a ticking noise that happens and CEL turns on, when i let off the tic goes away and so does CEL." Have you check to see if the car has any oil? The tick could be something simple as lifters or it could be something worse. Is it more like a tick or knock because in auto mechanics those 2 sounds makes a big difference?
 
Run a leakdown test, if you have a stuck valve it will show up.

Has the head been recently off? or the cams pulled out?
 
Sounds like you have the common 4g lifter tic then.

Pop the followers off

Bleed down the HLAs

Install the HLAs then the followers

Button the rest up

Fire the engine up.... cringe from the horrid sound it now makes

relax as it starts to fade some,

Go for a drive and bring up the oil pressure..

Think you must be nuts because you are driving with this horrid noise coming from the engine

Notice how its getting quieter 5 or 6 miles later

Keep driving, bringing up the oil pressure then let the pressure drop and bring it back up

keep doing it until the HLAs pump up and lock into place
 
Ok, I was hoping it was a lifter issue, so if this is the case I will try what you've told me

can you tell me how to bleed the HLA's

are the followers attached to the rockers?

nvm i got it. ill bleed them and post if it helps.
 
popped my valve cover off finally, and discovered today that when the guy replaced the cams he never bled the lifters....all 16 lifters were rock solid. i took them all out and bled them, gunna button it up and start her tomorrow and see if that solves the issue...idk how but i dont think any of the valves are bent. they all compress with not much effort.
 
Looks like you should adjust your TPS too. Push start capture with the key in the "on" position but engine not running. Then push the throttle all the way down 5 times or so, letting it come up all the way each time. Then right click and hit adjust TPS, and tick the "Simulate idle switch from TPS" box. Ta-Dah, you're all set.
 
the guy told me they were 1000, but if it says 845cc then thats prolly it seeing as how he did the tune....im hoping
 
my tps is at 39% when fully closed. so its not letting me do the adjustment. its saying "TPS voltage swing in data is from 2.33v to 5.00v. This is a difference of only 2.67v, which is below the required min value of 3.25v. you will need to manually adjust or capture new data with a full swing of the throttle from fully closed to open."
 
Turn your idle down, that's way too high. If it wont turn down, you have vacuum leaks. You're running 10% rich, which incidentally seems to be almost the exact value of your global MAF compensation. Zero out your MAF sliders and then post another log. Also dont start a log until the car warms up to 170, that's what you'd call "full operating temperature".

Oh also your TPS still reads 1% when closed there, so either fiddle with the throttle/cable and make sure it can go to 0, or redo the TPSadjust function again. Log TPSvolts and make sure it's .63 key on/car off and .65 car running when the throttle is closed.
 
ok just ran into a problem again, so when i first cranked her over this morning after i bled all the lifters my boost gauge was reading 20 vac.. i let it idle for about a half hour giving it alittle gas to build up oil pressure to quiet down the now loud lifters. they are getting alot quieter. i noticed my idle is slowly dropping and my boost now reads 10 vac. and its idling at 650-750rpm, and like 5-10mins later it dropped to like 7 vac and my idle is like 600rpm, feels like car wants to stall. my AFPR reads 40, can someone help me figure out whats wrong
 
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