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got a 95' EPROM ECU, now what?

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SlickTalon

10+ Year Contributor
37
0
Jun 14, 2011
Medina, Ohio
i just got an EPROM ECU and the PT 550cc injectors for $100 from a local guy on Craigslist. so whats next?

i plan to get(my goal in the near future) a nice new T28 or a 16G(haven't decided yet), fuel pump rewire(already have), 255 pump, wideband, and dsmlink/ecmlink(haven't decided, don't know which is better).

i know where the ECU is and how to replace it, just looking for what i need to do to run a tuner on it and eventually i need to know what to tune/change for the bigger injectors and pump and such. I'm sure there are write ups, just couldn't find them. all i found out is that for some reason me having a 96' is a good thing.

the ECU i picked up...

ECU part # - 1674E
EPROM code# - EB23E
Microcontroller code# - E100
R255 - YES
R256 - NO
Board # - JE331B677c
 
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How are you going to change it , dsmlink, wideband, dataloggre eprom i would get link and watch the demos thats how i would get started.

You have a eprom ecu get ecmlink awesome for tuning these cars.
 
ecm link and dsm link is the same thing they just changed the name as far as i know. I would say first off very nice find, thats a great deal. now i would say socket the ecu and get ecmlink v3 lite, you can always upgrade to the full version later if you want.
 
if youre looking for a simple easy bolt on the t28 would be perfect. the evo3 16 will put out more just need a few different things like a j pipe and oil lines along with water lines (optional).

T28-350hp max ~ cost $800+ brand new
16G-some have run 10's nuff said ~ cost $800 with fp's setup real sweet deal or $500 new turbo alone

if youre not confident enough to tune yourself with ecmlink(great for dsms, mannny tutitorials and forms/write up on how tos etc) then another option is dsmchips keydivers. i hear jeff does a great job. tell him your exact setup, plug the chip in and off ya go.

the reason they say its good you have a 96 is because 95 and 96 have a different style cas and an additional cps sensor, basically means no plug wire swapping etc. it all falls down to what you want out of your car.
 
OP, dsmlink and Ecmlink are both the same thing just so you know. They just changed the name due to plans to branch out beyond DSM's. And a 4G with a "DSM"Link in it would be a crying shame since we know those aren't Daimond Star. It would be like calling a Vette Mopar power.
 
If it were me, I would just take the new found EPROM ECU and send it out to ECMTuning so they can socket the board, install the ECMLink chip into the ECU as well as do a quick check/replacement of the capacitors for you before you even try to switch out the ECUs.
 
35$ isn't too bad for the socket service. Some of the local computer repair places were wanting to charge me as much as 180$ to socket my ecu.

I would suggest ECM/DSM Link V3 lite for the beginner, it has everything you need unless your planning on making it a full on drag car.

Your also going to need an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator for that fuel pump you have.
 
Hmm, ok. I'll have to decide if I want to just get eculink or send it in for a 1 time flash. This is my daily/beater so I'm not taking it too far. I basically want a T28, full bolt on, 18-20psi car.

Could I do this with just a walbro 190, rewire, and the 550's?( of course I'd have the tuner and wideband)

Right now all I have is a K+N cone filter kit, 2.5"-3" full exhaust, UICP w/1G BOV, and a Hallman Pro MBC. everything on the car is new, plus I have ARP head studs. The only thing left is this blown T25, only thing I haven't replaced on the car. So I got this 95' ECU, rewire kit, and PT 550's.

So will the Wally 190 suite my goals?

And besides switching the ECUs out, what do I need to do to it? Does the original chip just pop out and the new eculink chip take it place? I'm unfamiliar with this socket term. Is this something I can do myself? I don't wanna buy ECUlink and then get it and not be able to use it yet.
 
I could have done the socket work myself for mine, but I happily paid the $35 to get my ECU socketed, as they also check over other things such as the capacitors and make sure the system is working before they send it back out. Not a bad price to pay, to ensure that its 100% plug and play.

Slick Talon: You COULD socket the ECU yourself, and they actually give you some information on how to do it on ecmtuning.com, but if you are asking if it is something you can do yourself I would probably just send the ECU to them to be 100% sure it is done right. If you order everything set up from ECMTuning they ask your injector size, maf type etc so it is already calibrated and ready to run. You just swap out the ECUs and turn your car on.

I would go with ECMLink over a 1 time tune. I havent even began to really tune anything yet, but it has proven invaluable to me already. Switching my 880s in took 2 seconds to calibrate and idles just as well as stock vs trying to mess with the fuel pressure. Plus using the DTC page helped me see what CELs I was getting and let me clear them out to get rid of all the gremlins that are in this car due to the lack of maintenance from the previous owner.
 
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If i had a 95 EPROM right now i would sell it and get a 98-99 flashable ECU with a Tactric OP2.0
That's what i did when i found out about the reflash

All the cool stuff ECMLink has the reflash has it and its way cheaper

It has no limits
 
Ok sweet. Well I just looked at those faqs at ecmtuning.com. And mine is definitely socketed. Can i just get link, remove the stock chip, and plug in the tuner? And do I really need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?
 
If it is already socketed then you can just pop the old chip out and put the ECMLink chip in with no other work.

From what I have read, if you are going with a 190 pump you would probably be ok without one for awhile. If I were you though, I would jump directly to the 255, and an AFPR. The price between them is negligable, and you wont have to worry about troubleshooting a broken FPR down the line if/when it happens. That is just me though, I would rather spend the extra money now to ensure that it is reliable and wont damage other parts and also have the ability to expand down the line without rebuying parts. Do it once, do it right.
 
so for my t28 bolt on goal, at 18-20psi, i dont need the regulator? if i did go with the 255, which regulator should i get?

and i forgot to ask the kid of this ECU was out of a 5speed or an auto. does that matter? all i know is that it was out of his 95' tsi.
 
Most name brand aftermarket regulators will work just fine, you shouldn't run into any issues with those as long as it's a 1:1 rising regulator (means with every 1psi of boost the fuel pressure increases by 1psi as well). A 190 should be sufficient though for 18-20 psi on a t28. Auto or manual does not matter on the ECU, it will work fine in your car.
 
I haven't seen the actual socket, but if it's what I think it is, you need to have skills to solder the legs all down when they are that close together. If you aren't that great, it would take you some time anyway, and time is money. And if you screw up, you buy a new one.

$35 is a fair price. I don't know if I could get my brother (who had a long career as an electronics technician), to do it for that much. :p Especially since he makes well over $100k a year now.

So that's my opinion on that.
 
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