Good Suspension set-ups for quick 60' times?

[Gooberlog]

Oh ok i got ya. I was looking at the prices of coil overs at extremepsi and slowboy and the cheapest set new was $800 i believe and those were the Megans. Unless i can find a killer deal on a used set of coil overs, i think i'll have to go with Sportlines, intrax or megan coil springs. I added up the coil springs, rear AGX shocks, front caber bolts and rear upper control arm ingalls and the bushings that will help all came to over $800! I think i will keep my eye out for a used coil spring kit or a REALLY cheap used coil over set up and try to pick up some rear AGXs and then work on the camber bolts and rear upper arms and then i'll go through the bushings.
Before i get to all of those suspension mods, I think i'll finish up the rear and front polly engine mounts just to be done with those.

 

[My1GLaser]

I have a set of Intrax springs that i just took off my car cause it was too low. PM me if you are interested and I am sure we can work out a deal.

 

[Phil1320]

I have a set of Intrax springs that i just took off my car cause it was too low.

Here you go Trav.......

 

[GDNF2ET]

I figured I should post just to get my avatar on here ..As you can see my car needs help and I got alot of ideas in this thread..Thanx for posting the part numbers too.Its a big help..

Better pic..

 

[Phil1320]

I figured I should post just to get my avatar on here ..As you can see my car needs help and I got alot of ideas in this thread..Thanx for posting the part numbers too.Its a big help..

Better pic..

Either way, a killer photo! That is the classic DSM launch!

 

[Gooberlog]

I have a set of Intrax springs that i just took off my car cause it was too low. PM me if you are interested and I am sure we can work out a deal.

I sent you a message in your profile, might not be a private message but you should be able to see it. Let me know, thanks.

I figured I should post just to get my avatar on here ..As you can see my car needs help and I got alot of ideas in this thread..Thanx for posting the part numbers too.Its a big help..

Better pic..

I figured this topic would help some others. It seems like a lot of AWD guys are big in to drag racing. I knew i wasn't the only one who wanted to know some of this stuff.

 

[Gooberlog]

Here is what I run and get consistent 1.6x 60 fts with a best of 1.61 to date.

Sumitomo HTR 225/45/16 with 22 psi.
Frt control arm & sway bar bushings, rear sway bar. (I want to do more just haven't yet)
Prothane Motor mounts
AGX & Eibach Prokit. Frt set on 2 rear on 6.
5500 rpm launch with about 18-20 psi leaving the line.
-1* camber frt, -1.5* rear

I am probably going with Konis & Ground Control Springs in the near future to get some better handling in autocross.

Coilover isn't necessary for drag racing IMO.

I didn't read the whole thing so forgive me if I repeat something that has already been mentioned.

1. Coil overs are the best setup you can get. They are by no means required but they will help, and they are adjustable. I know you said you don't want them because of price, I would look for a used set. I got my ground control coil overs and agx struts for $300 shipped.

2. For the alignment I have two recommendations, one for a pure track car and one for a track/street car.
2A. For a track car that is not concerned with tire wear from driving normal you need to do this. After the suspension is put on get somebody to take a picture or video of you launching(if you end up with coil overs make sure you have the height set where you want it before doing this or you will have to restart). Try to replicate the look of your car launching on the alignment rack. Tell them to lift the front end from the pinch welds so it lets the front suspension travel. Have them use ratchet straps or something of the like on the rear to get it to squat as in the picture. Tell them to do the alignment how the car is sitting. Tell them you want as close to 0 camber as they can get like that. This will maximize traction when launching since you will have a full contact patch. This will wear out the inside of the front tires and outside of the rear tires if you drive it on the street though since the top of the front tires will point in when cruising and the top of the rear tires will point out when cruising.

2B. Again make sure you have the height set where you want it if you go with coil overs. Get them to set the camber within factory specs but tell them you want the front towards the limit of the negative spec and the rear toward the limit of the positive specs. This will allow better traction than if they do the alignment normal (set camber in the middle of the specs). This will also increase tire wear as mentioned before but nowhere near as bad as the drag alignment. The tire wear like this you can actually live with.

3. Leave the rear sway bar and take off the front. The rear does actually help with traction when the rear squats. When it squats the sway bar helps put downward pressure on the suspension which helps the tires stick. Taking off the front bar will give you more weight transfer, which can be a good thing with these cars as long as you don't have too much (which you won't with a aftermarket suspension).


Any more questions just ask.

The one post says to set the rear camber negative 1.5*and he is cutting 1.6 60' times on street tires but the second post says to put the rear camber toward the limit on the positive side??? Can anyone else confirm what my alignment adjustments should go toward for a street car with drag strip mainly in mind? BTW: The suspension set up I will be installing tomorrow is intrax 2"drop springs, rear AGX shocks, ingals upper camber arms, front eccentric bolts. Thanks guys,
Travis

 

[My1GLaser]

Well you can't argue with that photo in one of the last posts on the first page. I would definitely side with the Wiseman and his suggestion.

My car sees enough street time that I like the extra handling of the neg rear camber. Plus I have 8" wide rims and run 20-22 psi tire pressure at the track. I have about 9" of tread width which helps tremendously on the launch.

Don't be surprised if the drop is more like 2.5". I measured my car when I switched from the Intrax to the Eibach Pro-kit and my car raised almost a full inch. Good luck with those springs. I hope they do what you want.

 

[CurtBrownRacing]

As for alignment ive had good luck with zero toe F&R, zero rear camber and negitive one degree up front, not the best handling but gets the job done at the track. My steet car is 0/0 toe, -1.5 F&R camber and still flat out hooks on the street. To truely maintain zero rear toe you must have Jays rear toe eliminator kit, even on the street my black car felt faster from 100 up due to active toe elimination.

 

[Gooberlog]

Thanks guys. I'll have to do the alignment and see how it feels on the street and hooks at the track once they reopen. Still have to throw everything on yet though.
My1Glaser: I think the 2.5" drop will give me a nice tire to fender gap but i just hope I'm not scraping my exhaust on speed bumps like some slammed Honda now.
Curt, What kind of tire wear are you seeing with your front and rear camber set to -1.5* on the street? I was looking at the Jay's rear toe eliminators as well as doing more polly bushings but since i just picked up dsmlink, it's not in the budget for now. I'm sure a set will end up on my car by the end of the year though. Thanks again guys.

 

[CurtBrownRacing]

Thanks guys. I'll have to do the alignment and see how it feels on the street and hooks at the track once they reopen. Still have to throw everything on yet though.
My1Glaser: I think the 2.5" drop will give me a nice tire to fender gap but i just hope I'm not scraping my exhaust on speed bumps like some slammed Honda now.
Curt, What kind of tire wear are you seeing with your front and rear camber set to -1.5* on the street? I was looking at the Jay's rear toe eliminators as well as doing more polly bushings but since i just picked up dsmlink, it's not in the budget for now. I'm sure a set will end up on my car by the end of the year though. Thanks again guys.

None yet, Ive only put 2000 miles on the red 93 with that set-up.

 

[Gooberlog]

Today i installed the Intrax lowering springs, rear AGX adjustable struts, front camber eccentric bolt kits, and rear upper Ingals camber arms. You may have noticed that I didn't say anything about upgraded front struts. I figured all of the weight transfer at the track goes to the rear and if i keep the back stiff, the car will launch level. So i opted to keep my stock original front struts which drove fine with out any issues with the stock suspension. Took the car for a ride and any bump more than an inch or two in the road, or a sewer man hole in the road that isn't flush, and the front feels like it bottoms out. I did notice that there were no bump stops in the front but there were in the rear (i trimmed the rear about 20mm).

After searching on here, i found that this was a rookie mistake to lower a car with the use of any stock struts. Not to mention lowering the car as much as i did. Since i had so much weight out from weight reduction, the car dropped 2" in the rear and 3" in the front! i have less than 1.75" of clearance from fender to front tires and enough in the rear with the AGX that are new. My issue is VERY similar to the guy in this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/346415-shock-bottoming-out-lowering-springs.html
I'm assuming that there should be bump stops installed on the front struts as well to prevent my bottoming out problem, and i'm sure a better strut up front will also help. Some people are recommending the oem style GR2's for this problem but other say that if it is lowered more than 2" that they will blow quickly. The rear tire gap looks normal now, a bit lower than stock full weight GSX, (front is slammed though with tired struts up front). What is the cheapest strut i can run up front that wont blow out in a couple weeks due to my 2-3" drop in the front? The guy in the thread above stated that once he put a decent strut on the front he actually gained about .5" which would make a world of difference for me. I just can't afford for them to blow out that quick. I need to do this so i can actually drive the car normal and then get my alignment done once i have selected and installed my front struts.

 

[My1GLaser]

You can get some KYB AGX for the front for a reasonable price. I didn't like the ride on my car, but mine was full-weight. I would get a pair of Koni yellows for the front, but it'll probably cost a bit more than you want to spend.

 

[lowell]

92 Laser, Tein coil overs, Sumitomo HTR-Z 225/45/17 on 17x7 heavy ass wheels, 36f/33r pressure. ES front control arm and rear trailing arm/toe bushings and DIY anti toe mod. Rear upper arms lengthened to give about -0.5 camber, front camber -1.75. I don't change anything when I go to the track, and this car is designed to go around corners as well. Best 60ft is 1.63 so far.

 

[ScottH]

Just a FYI for those who haven't seen. But Jay has his toe elim kits reduced to like $175 bucks. It's a real nice quality kit.

My suspension consist of:

Avid Racing Motor Mounts
Megan Racing Coilovers
ES Front Control-Arm Bushings
ES Rear Control-Arm Bushings
ES Front Sub-Frame Bushings
ES Front Crossmember Outter Bushings
TunersNation Poly Rear Sub-Frame & Mustash Bar Bushings
Jay Racing Active Rear Toe Eliminator Kit
Torque Solutions Carrier Bearing Bushings
3SX Rear Upper Control Arms
F&R Sway Bars Eliminated

I am hoping for some good 60's. We'll see sometime this spring/summer I guess.

 

[CurtBrownRacing]

Just a FYI for those who haven't seen. But Jay has his toe elim kits reduced to like $175 bucks. It's a real nice quality kit.

My suspension consist of:

Avid Racing Motor Mounts
Megan Racing Coilovers
ES Front Control-Arm Bushings
ES Rear Control-Arm Bushings
ES Front Sub-Frame Bushings
ES Front Crossmember Outter Bushings
TunersNation Poly Rear Sub-Frame & Mustash Bar Bushings
Jay Racing Active Rear Toe Eliminator Kit
Torque Solutions Carrier Bearing Bushings
3SX Rear Upper Control Arms
F&R Sway Bars Eliminated

I am hoping for some good 60's. We'll see sometime this spring/summer I guess.

Damn Scott, that's a carbon copy of mine, you should be set!

 

[Gooberlog]

Do you guys have bump stops on the front struts??? My suspension looked like it had never been messed with and i sware i thought these cars came with front and rear bump stops. I guess it's possible they deteriorated and came off?

What's this i read above about ES control arms and what not? Is ES a suspension/bushing brand?

I wanted the Jay's toe eliminator but i'm taped out for now, especially since now i have to shop for two more struts.

You can get some KYB AGX for the front for a reasonable price. I didn't like the ride on my car, but mine was full-weight. I would get a pair of Koni yellows for the front, but it'll probably cost a bit more than you want to spend.

I read through some posts after taking the car around the neighbor hood and bottoming out on ever divit in the road and most people were saying that AGX shocks will blow if you have your car dropped as low as 2". Right now the front is 3" lower. I wonder if the Koni Yellows would be any different?

Lets say my front stock struts have 6" of travel. When i lower the car down with the lowering springs in the front, most of that travel is now compressed at normal ride hight with the springs. So i think the problem is that instead of 6" (for discussion purposes) of travel, now i'm limited to about 1" of travel, so the smallest bump and i'm bottoming out the struts with full travel.

 

[ScottH]

Damn Scott, that's a carbon copy of mine, you should be set!

Yeah I read on Link forums I believe it was some people with the megan coilovers are swapping out the springs that they came with for something else.I haven't, I figure after I put a few miles on the car I'll get a better feeling for if I wanna change mine out for a different rate spring

What's this i read above about ES control arms and what not? Is ES a suspension/bushing brand?

ES = Energy Suspension

ES Front Control-Arm Bushings - Part# 5.3108R
ES Rear Control-Arm Bushings - Part# 5.3113R
ES Front Sub-Frame Bushings - Part# 5.4105R

The front crossmember that connects the front motor mount has a bushing at the outter edges. Those bushings can be replaced with the two larger bushings from the Front Subframe ES kit.

If you need any help just toss me a PM.

 

[Gooberlog]

Yeah I read on Link forums I believe it was some people with the megan coilovers are swapping out the springs that they came with for something else.I haven't, I figure after I put a few miles on the car I'll get a better feeling for if I wanna change mine out for a different rate spring



ES = Energy Suspension

ES Front Control-Arm Bushings - Part# 5.3108R
ES Rear Control-Arm Bushings - Part# 5.3113R
ES Front Sub-Frame Bushings - Part# 5.4105R

The front crossmember that connects the front motor mount has a bushing at the outter edges. Those bushings can be replaced with the two larger bushings from the Front Subframe ES kit.

If you need any help just toss me a PM.

DUH. Usually the abbreviations come to me a little easier. I saw some kits similar to this on ebay for a decent price. Might have work on this in the up coming season once i get some more cash.

 

[CurtBrownRacing]

Yeah I read on Link forums I believe it was some people with the megan coilovers are swapping out the springs that they came with for something else.I haven't, I figure after I put a few miles on the car I'll get a better feeling for if I wanna change mine out for a different rate spring


I went about 150#'s per corner lighter since the car is so light, worked great.

 

[SBstar]

Chassis discussion What's important what isn't

Just a little info from the "man" when it comes to suspension tuning. Good reading throughout.

 

[DraginX]

I know this topic is over a year old but I will be soon looking to set up my suspension.
I'm leaning towards the D2 or meagan setup, seems like a good bang for the buck. What are your guys opinions on them both, pros and cons?
After reading through this thread I was looking for a master bushing set for the 1g awd cars and cannot seem to find one. Only thing I could find was for 2g's and 1g fwd... Anyone know where to find them or if they are even made.

 

[burkgonzo]

Stock 20 year old suspension 1.68 60ft.

 

[Boug]

This was a very enlightening thread. I learned a lot.